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Old 08-20-2012, 12:14 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by jeff_78 View Post
my V3 burnt out on the weekend, running a 4.5T on large track. I get the feeling it had bad heat transfer between the electronics and the heatsink. (maybe i got a dud) because the temp reading on the heatsink was about 60c but the internal temp readout was 127c.
It has run sort of OK for 3 meetings but gave up, ironically after i reduced the timing settings. its a downgrade from my previous ESC in terms of speed. I know im running it close to its limits, when i first read internal temp and considered my car is a little slower on the straight than usual, i knew i had an issue.

I had thermal shutdown enabled at 125c so im supprised it failed. actually i dont see why this function should be user adjustable. maybe factory fixed at just under whatever the device can handle.
Sounds like there was a problem to begin with. ESC should not cause less power than you had previously. I put it on with my car just swapped the ESC with similar settings to a different ESC (not mentioning names) and it had plenty power, maybe a bit more.
Difficult to tell with electronics where the problem is...
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:18 PM   #77
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Sounds like there was a problem to begin with. ESC should not cause less power than you had previously. I put it on with my car just swapped the ESC with similar settings to a different ESC (not mentioning names) and it had plenty power, maybe a bit more.
Difficult to tell with electronics where the problem is...
the V3 does need to be set up to get the best out of it and the motor, incorrect settings can make it feel like it has less power. But once you hit the sweet spot
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:22 PM   #78
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Hobbywing response for temperature, max reading:

If the ESC temperature is less than 85 C degree (measured at the heat-sink), you needn't worry it at all.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:55 AM   #79
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Is the HPI Flux Pro the same as the Hobbywing V3?

Can I load the Hobbywing software onto the Flux Pro?

I only ask because looking at the manuals the settings look identical.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:19 PM   #80
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yeh must have been problems with mine. I read temps on the heatsink, its never got to 85C. but the internal temp reading via the program box gets me 120+.
regarding setting i started with no timing FDR 8.0 (way too slow) and went up 5 degree increments to 30 degress 10k - 40k range, no turbo. it was reasonably quick but still slower than im used to. RPM recorded was 71k thereabouts. But already the internal temp is over 120C. Concerned about this, before the next race i backed it off to 25 boost, halfway thru the race it cut out completely on the main straight (no power to reciever) and coasted off the end of the track. (lucky i was going dead straight at the time!). now it doesnt stay turned on, it powers up only while holding the button down.
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:47 AM   #81
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Been out of the Hobby for more then 10 years.
However, even back then ESC had wires pre-soldered.
Why do ESC makers not bother soldering wires now?
I mean, they supply 5 wires for the job so solder them..... then let the user decide on cut length to battery connectors and motor.

It's taken me more then 1.5 hours to solder 5 wires onto this thing, what a pain in the arse.
TIP: Don't pre-tin the buckets on this ESC like you would do with just about every soldering job every done. The heatsink sucks the heat quickly, so you try holding your wire and pushing it into a half filled bucket just doesn't work as the instant you remove the soldering tip the solder loses temp and that's it.
I'm used to pushing a pre-tinned wire into a pre-tinned bucket (like I've done for 20 years).
If I had another crack at this, I would have placed wires pre-tinned into the bucket and clamped the hell out of them.
I would have then soldered around and filled the bucket with the wire already in it.
This thing better work after all this nonsense.

Rant over!!
Time for a beer now.
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Old 08-26-2012, 02:30 AM   #82
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I would never pre-soldered wires, especially at a top level ESC!

The best ESC than 20 years ago, the Tekin 411G2 did not have the wires pre-soldered
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:38 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telinoz1975 View Post
Been out of the Hobby for more then 10 years.
However, even back then ESC had wires pre-soldered.
Why do ESC makers not bother soldering wires now?
I mean, they supply 5 wires for the job so solder them..... then let the user decide on cut length to battery connectors and motor.

It's taken me more then 1.5 hours to solder 5 wires onto this thing, what a pain in the arse.
TIP: Don't pre-tin the buckets on this ESC like you would do with just about every soldering job every done. The heatsink sucks the heat quickly, so you try holding your wire and pushing it into a half filled bucket just doesn't work as the instant you remove the soldering tip the solder loses temp and that's it.
I'm used to pushing a pre-tinned wire into a pre-tinned bucket (like I've done for 20 years).
If I had another crack at this, I would have placed wires pre-tinned into the bucket and clamped the hell out of them.
I would have then soldered around and filled the bucket with the wire already in it.
This thing better work after all this nonsense.

Rant over!!
Time for a beer now.
There are many soldering guides on the internet to help you out. If its taking you that long to solder you are

1) doing it incorrectly
2) using the wrong tools
3) or drunk ;-).
4) combination of the three above.

Seriously, if done correctly it should take you no more than 10 min tops which includes cutting the wire to length, stripping, pretinning and soldering all wires.
It sometime takes me a little longer because I'm surfing the Internet and watching tv.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:47 PM   #84
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This thing looked dialed from the second I got it out of the package - very nice form factor. Raced it a couple of club weekends and it seemed to be getting quite hot in TC-mod. Probably 5 out of 8 times on the track, late in the race ran into an under-power situation with my receiver as my transmitter started alarming on "low volt receiver" and car temporarily lost drive - steering still worked so coasted to a safe spot on the track. Sat there and let it cool for about 30 seconds and was able to resume and finish the race. Swapped out receiver but it happened again. Baffled. Thought this thing would be bullet-proof.

Very sad to report TOTAL malfunction this weekend at the ROAR Nats in TC-mod. Flaked out on me in the very first practice run - using a Reedy 4.0 mod, just basically shut down about 4 minutes in (total car shutdown). Back in the pits, it comes on and stays on if I hold down the power button, and still supplies power to the receiver and servo, but nothing for the motor. It actually starts beeping after about 5 seconds. Release the power button, it turns completely back off. No dice.

In a pinch, bought the Orion Vortex Pro 160A (looks amazingly similar - could these be manufactured in the same factory for a number of resellers?!?) and it held up just fine throughout the rest of the weekend.

Now I have to start the somewhat nebulous process of warranty/repair.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:38 PM   #85
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might be a dumb question but can you put the V3 sothware into the 2.1?
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:43 PM   #86
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does anyone know if you can use the hobbywing programer on the orion version?

sorry if this was covered and i missed it lol
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:50 PM   #87
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might be a dumb question but can you put the V3 sothware into the 2.1?
No, the physical hardware is different between the v3 and v2.1
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:19 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stogie View Post
This thing looked dialed from the second I got it out of the package - very nice form factor. Raced it a couple of club weekends and it seemed to be getting quite hot in TC-mod. Probably 5 out of 8 times on the track, late in the race ran into an under-power situation with my receiver as my transmitter started alarming on "low volt receiver" and car temporarily lost drive - steering still worked so coasted to a safe spot on the track. Sat there and let it cool for about 30 seconds and was able to resume and finish the race. Swapped out receiver but it happened again. Baffled. Thought this thing would be bullet-proof.

Very sad to report TOTAL malfunction this weekend at the ROAR Nats in TC-mod. Flaked out on me in the very first practice run - using a Reedy 4.0 mod, just basically shut down about 4 minutes in (total car shutdown). Back in the pits, it comes on and stays on if I hold down the power button, and still supplies power to the receiver and servo, but nothing for the motor. It actually starts beeping after about 5 seconds. Release the power button, it turns completely back off. No dice.

In a pinch, bought the Orion Vortex Pro 160A (looks amazingly similar - could these be manufactured in the same factory for a number of resellers?!?) and it held up just fine throughout the rest of the weekend.

Now I have to start the somewhat nebulous process of warranty/repair.
Out of interest.. what settings were you running? Only reason I ask is that to me the ESC seems to run cooler than others around, makes me wonder if the settings were outta whack a little.

Oh, and the Orion is made by Hobbywing, but specifically to Orion's specs.... actually uses hardware between the V2.1 and V3, more like a V2.5, if you will. Anyway, hence the similarites

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Old 08-27-2012, 12:08 PM   #89
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Is there anybody at hobbywing that can help me out? I received my V3 last week. After setting it and calibrating it with my radio on my pit table, I squeezed the trigger and heard a pop, and smelled the dreaded electrical burn smell. I emailed Hobbywing last week. They responded to me asking for the warranty code and pictures. I emailed them last Friday and have not heard back from them. Unfortunately, our point series starts this weekend. I'm without an ESC and I've already pre registered for the series. I'm more ticked off that they have yet to respond to me after promptly responding to their email request. Horrible customer service. Looks like I'm going back to Tekin. At least they take care of their customers quickly. Oh well. Should have listened to the local racers and stuck with a reputable company like Tekin or Orion. Can anyone else suggest a company with great customer service?
Sounds like you have had a faulty power cap, mine did the same after a couple of runs, have you tried using the esc again yet? I wouldn't race without the caps but you can at least power it on and see if it works?
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:14 PM   #90
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Out of interest.. what settings were you running? Only reason I ask is that to me the ESC seems to run cooler than others around, makes me wonder if the settings were outta whack a little.
Relatively conservative settings - only about 15 on the boost, no turbo or timing. Zero degrees of physical timing on the motor. Everything was unbelievably hot coming off the track after even 3 or 4 minutes, leading me to believe I might be over-geared, but put the exact same setup on the Orion and it held up. Came off the track a little cooler after a 6 minute run. Guess the extra 40 amp limit really does make a difference!

I'll just get this little unit fixed (hopefully!) and keep it in blinky mode for the 17.5 and 13.5 car. I still really like the form-factor with the switch button right on the case. Very cool.
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