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Old 09-10-2014, 09:26 PM   #586
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I looked and looked.. and searched without finding an answer. Quick question, can I change the profile and/or set my basic settings (i.e. drag brake) on the unit itself? or does all programing require the programming box?
All programming requires the box.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:59 PM   #587
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All programming requires the box.
baahh.. thanks
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Old 09-11-2014, 11:59 AM   #588
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Is this what I need? I have the brand new Xerun stock spec 3.1.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HobbyWing-3i...item43cc056a93


Also, if I can't get the programming card before race day... what "mode" is the ESC in out of the box? It's not blinking... what settings would I be stuck with until I can find a programmer?
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:40 PM   #589
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Is this what I need? I have the brand new Xerun stock spec 3.1.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HobbyWing-3i...item43cc056a93


Also, if I can't get the programming card before race day... what "mode" is the ESC in out of the box? It's not blinking... what settings would I be stuck with until I can find a programmer?
Yes that is the correct programmer.
Its in a basic setup with some boost you won't be able to use it in a blink class as it has a clear advantage in speed.

Don't forget you can also get the unit direct retail is only 28.00
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:42 PM   #590
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So I have a software version question
My 3.1 1cell has the following firmware
3.1_121129_Beta

what advantage is it to update the firmware if any?
3.2_140627_Beta

By the way I'm only running 17.5 blink in 1/12th scale
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:26 AM   #591
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I've recently made a switch from the LRP to Hobbywing V3.1 ESCs. The 2S version that is in my TC is working flawlessly. The 1S version that is in my 12th scale is not working as well. I have the Team Powers Actinium 17.5 BL motor and it's cogging badly at initial throttle input. In most cases someone will need to push the car to get it going. I did not experience this issue with my LRP. Everything in my setup is the same except for the ESC. I'm going to try a new sensor wire but I'm opening to any other suggestions.

Setup

LiPO: SMC 7000 1S
Motor: Team Powers Actinium 17.5 (timing set 1 notch below full physical timing)
ESC: HW V3.1 1S (Stock blinky 0 timing, forward/brake, 6deg neutral, ESC/motor heat disabled, everything else is default)
Tx/Rx: M12/RX-471
Rollout: 94
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:50 AM   #592
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Can anybody guide me in the right direction for a speedo setup for mod. Im running a d4 4.5 and am lookong for a good starting point. The track is about 160x75 medium to medium-high bite. But i live in florida and temps are an issue so not something really aggressive.

any sugguestions for speedo gearing and motor timing would be great
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:46 PM   #593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugspin View Post
Yes that is the correct programmer.
Its in a basic setup with some boost you won't be able to use it in a blink class as it has a clear advantage in speed.

Don't forget you can also get the unit direct retail is only 28.00
If I remember correctly, the 3.1 ESC may have presets already installed. With the programming box that came with the ESC, only change the mode value. I believe blinky is mode 2. Mode 1 is boosted Stock if I recall correctly. Change the mode, save the setting and shut down the ESC. When powered back up, the power button should now be blinking. Don't forget to re-calibrate your transmitter to the speedo. If all is well.
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:17 PM   #594
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Hello Hobbywing! Love my Xerun 3.1. Plan to purchase a second soon one for each car. Curious, what kind of solder is used on the battery and motor wires? I would think it would be lead free given it's a RoHS compliant device? I have old solder that is NOT lead free, the typical 60/40 blend of tin and lead. I don't know if mixing them is an issue, but it does seem that the joints are not as shiny as usual. Perhaps this is a because of the new blend of solder that is lead free? Thanks for your help in advance!

Thanks!
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:01 AM   #595
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I'm running my Hobbywing Xerun 3.1 in my DEX210 and I would like to try MM3 instead of MM4, so this means I'll need to reverse the rotation of the motor. I'm running a sensored speed passion hirosaka 7.5T motor, is it possible to reverse the rotation?

I read this in the manual "for sensor-less motor you can use the reverse function on the transmitter, but not for sensored motors."

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:02 PM   #596
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Hello Hobbywing! Love my Xerun 3.1. Plan to purchase a second soon one for each car. Curious, what kind of solder is used on the battery and motor wires? I would think it would be lead free given it's a RoHS compliant device? I have old solder that is NOT lead free, the typical 60/40 blend of tin and lead. I don't know if mixing them is an issue, but it does seem that the joints are not as shiny as usual. Perhaps this is a because of the new blend of solder that is lead free? Thanks for your help in advance!

Thanks!
I have assumed it was a silver solder blend due to the amount of heat it takes to flow. I remove the stock solder with a braid and then use typical 60/40 which I still believe is the best option for RC.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:10 PM   #597
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I'm running my Hobbywing Xerun 3.1 in my DEX210 and I would like to try MM3 instead of MM4, so this means I'll need to reverse the rotation of the motor. I'm running a sensored speed passion hirosaka 7.5T motor, is it possible to reverse the rotation?

I read this in the manual "for sensor-less motor you can use the reverse function on the transmitter, but not for sensored motors."

Thanks in advance!
No, not possible to reverse the motor rotation on a V3.1

I'm not familiar with that kit, but some kits allow you to flip the gears to change direction of the transmission.
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Old 09-16-2014, 07:47 AM   #598
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Thanks Bytestream! You were correct that you can switch the transmission around to correct for rotation. Thanks for also confirming my suspicion that you can't reverse the rotation on the Xerun 3.1...
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Old 09-16-2014, 07:49 AM   #599
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I've read in a few places that mixing solder types is often done in practice and field work and sometimes repair. I'm sure it's a much better idea to remove the old solder and use one kinda consistently. Do you find 60/40 is better because it holds up to abuse better than lead free solder does?
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:19 AM   #600
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I've read in a few places that mixing solder types is often done in practice and field work and sometimes repair. I'm sure it's a much better idea to remove the old solder and use one kinda consistently. Do you find 60/40 is better because it holds up to abuse better than lead free solder does?
I'm not a fan of silver solder or mixes because it takes alot of heat to get the solder to flow, which means the electronics take the brunt of it. Even with liquid flux, it's hard.

I've never liked the lead free solder either mainly due to the same reasons and some mixes produce a dull finish and I can't tell if it's a cold connection or not.

I don't mix the solder types mainly because of the different melting points. I remove as much as I can with a braid .. I take the braid, put some liquid flux on it, heat the braid, and it soaks it up very quickly.

IMO .. 60/40 (lead) is the best, it flows easily, produces a shiny finish and it's one less thing I worry about. As far as strength goes, I've never had a wire come off due to the solder connection. It's easy, it works .. and that's enough for me
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