lewis110

iTrader: (3)

No the data logger will work with the 2-1 box. Just press the R/P button.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

Tried a Hobbywing V3 for the first time on carpet, running a 10.5 motor in a touring car. I liked the overall throttle feel (FAR better than the v2 ESC), but the brakes are absolutely awful. Stopping power was non-existent until I dialed the drag brake up to 40%, set initial brake = to drag brake, and turned all of the other brake settings all the way up. Is there a firmware revision I should be using that would resolve, or at least alleviate this problem?

Steve S

iTrader: (5)

I've noticed a bit of weirdness with the brakes as well. It almost seems to get weaker the higher I set the brake end-point (typically run at 75-85%).

COBRARACING

Please use 129_beta for boost and turbo applications or v3 508 for zero timing and you will notice a big difference in the brakes.

By the way what motor brand are you using?

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

I'll have to check the firmware version I'm using, but think I'm using 129_beta... I'm using a Murfdogg 10.5 with a 12.3 rotor.

COBRARACING

Do the brakes fade as the motor gets hot?

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

The brakes are weak, from start to finish. The ESC has never been over 140*F (60*C), and the motor doesn't get past 155*F.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

I tried reflashing the ESC with the 129_beta software, and I'll see how the brakes feel this weekend. If it made a significant difference, I'll repost after Saturday's race. Thanks for the help.

Rozzt_iwa

any 1 have a prob were you have reverse but no forward in fad/rev/brake setting
in the middle of the race the car just stopped I've tried to re setup and return to defaults

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

I didn't have this problem specifically, but had a similar issue this weekend. I was warming up for my main event, stopped the car to make a quick adjustment on my brake endpoints, and the ESC shut itself off. After turning the car back on, it ran fine - but I've noticed that there are instances where the car will either shut itself off, or not allow you to power down the ESC without disconnecting the battery.

BTW - reflashing the ESC didn't improve the problem I had with inadequate braking power, although I noticed that the motor used seemed to affect overall brake strength. I ran a Thunder Power 9.5 in my TC this weekend, and had pretty strong brakes. When I swapped the 9.5 for a Murfdogg 10.5, I had virtually no brakes whatsoever. ESC was recalibrated after each motor swap. One thing I noticed after taking both motors apart is that the rotor is closer to the sensor board in the TP; would anyone know if the distance between the rotor and the sensors determines how much braking strength is available?

mkiiina

iTrader: (71)

I had this happen to me as well. Swapped out my mini-harness with another one and it seems better thus far.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

Mini harness? Enlighten me... Where is it installed on the ESC, and how difficult is it to replace?

mkiiina

iTrader: (71)

Sorry for the confusion, I am referring to the battery harness. I use deans going to 4mm bullets for my battery but the wire is on about 2 in long (just enough to go from the posts to the deans connector).

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

Ahhh, that makes sense... I won't be able to get the power leads that short because of the chassis layout. Maybe the manufacturer rep can chime in and provide insight as to how to go about resolving this problem...

I'm willing to work through firmware bugs, updates, etc., but this type of behavior isn't acceptable considering we're discussing a $180 ESC. I'm hoping there's a suitable resolution.

Bar

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know where i can find a blank setup sheet for the hobbywing v3.1?