TEAM POWERS NEW PLUTONIUM MOTORS
#631
Tech Adept
The V2 Plutonium was never approved by ROAR or BRCA. The stator is the part that was rejected, not the rotor.
The diameter of the rotor should be 12.3 FAT BOSS.
The best FDR depending if the track is medium in size would be 3.6. With timing set to 2.5 anti clockwise. Plenty pull out of the corner and very good top end on a track with approx 35 to 40 meter straight and technical infield. Motor temps should be around 50 to 55 Celcius.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Ren
The diameter of the rotor should be 12.3 FAT BOSS.
The best FDR depending if the track is medium in size would be 3.6. With timing set to 2.5 anti clockwise. Plenty pull out of the corner and very good top end on a track with approx 35 to 40 meter straight and technical infield. Motor temps should be around 50 to 55 Celcius.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Ren
Interestingly, both the specs and the box of Plutonium v2 motor indicate that the motor is designed based on ROAR, IFMAR, etc (can't remember all) specifications and yet it is a faster and outlaw motor.
The track I'm running is a small track with many sharp corners and therefore the acceleration speed exiting from the corners will be a critical factor to me. Since you suggested tuning the motor to +2.5 (anti-clockwise) based on the assumption of a medium track. Am I right to assume that I should have a slightly higher FDR and tune the motor's timing to +3 since my local track is smaller with many corners? Please advise and thank you.
#632
Thanks for your prompt reply.
Interestingly, both the specs and the box of Plutonium v2 motor indicate that the motor is designed based on ROAR, IFMAR, etc (can't remember all) specifications and yet it is a faster and outlaw motor.
The track I'm running is a small track with many sharp corners and therefore the acceleration speed exiting from the corners will be a critical factor to me. Since you suggested tuning the motor to +2.5 (anti-clockwise) based on the assumption of a medium track. Am I right to assume that I should have a slightly higher FDR and tune the motor's timing to +3 since my local track is smaller with many corners? Please advise and thank you.
Interestingly, both the specs and the box of Plutonium v2 motor indicate that the motor is designed based on ROAR, IFMAR, etc (can't remember all) specifications and yet it is a faster and outlaw motor.
The track I'm running is a small track with many sharp corners and therefore the acceleration speed exiting from the corners will be a critical factor to me. Since you suggested tuning the motor to +2.5 (anti-clockwise) based on the assumption of a medium track. Am I right to assume that I should have a slightly higher FDR and tune the motor's timing to +3 since my local track is smaller with many corners? Please advise and thank you.
3.6 is a good starting point and play with timing to get where you need for now. Going to 3.7 or 3.8 will make the chassis too snappy unless you know you have great traction.
Over revving will not help, so try 3.6 and use the torque available first.
Always a starting from what we have experienced here.
Cheers.
#633
Tech Adept
Yes the motor is designed to ROAR specs but was never approved.
3.6 is a good starting point and play with timing to get where you need for now. Going to 3.7 or 3.8 will make the chassis too snappy unless you know you have great traction.
Over revving will not help, so try 3.6 and use the torque available first.
Always a starting from what we have experienced here.
Cheers.
3.6 is a good starting point and play with timing to get where you need for now. Going to 3.7 or 3.8 will make the chassis too snappy unless you know you have great traction.
Over revving will not help, so try 3.6 and use the torque available first.
Always a starting from what we have experienced here.
Cheers.
#635
Most of the guys (running 17.5T stock class) in my local track are running HobbyWing's Bandit 17.5T motor, which is also an outlaw motor but with lesser rpm (i.e. 17.5T of 2300kV) than the Team Powers Plutonium v2 17.5T 2400kW. I'm just thinking that the speed running on a 40 meter straight path will be decreased significantly by changing my FDR to 3.6 or 3.5 with default 0 degree timing on the motor, as my current FDR is 3.38. Is there any good way to have a higher acceleration after exiting from corners and at the same time, the car will still be fast when running on a straight path? Thank you guys.
Try the suggestions and add timing if you are allowed, which you are allowed.
Even 3.5 as a starting point. And as erchn said, Try it and report back if it does not work.
You will loose nothing but gain knowledge.....
Cheers,
Ren
#636
Tech Adept
You can not compare the HW BANDIT motors to the TP PV2. Completely different !!!!!! Don't even go there......
Try the suggestions and add timing if you are allowed, which you are allowed.
Even 3.5 as a starting point. And as erchn said, Try it and report back if it does not work.
You will loose nothing but gain knowledge.....
Cheers,
Ren
Try the suggestions and add timing if you are allowed, which you are allowed.
Even 3.5 as a starting point. And as erchn said, Try it and report back if it does not work.
You will loose nothing but gain knowledge.....
Cheers,
Ren
Sure thing. Will share with you guys the result. Btw, why do you said that Bandit and Plutonium v2 are completely and Plutonium don't even go there? What's the difference since both are outlaw, adjustable timing, 17.5T? The only difference I can see is the rpm which Plutonium is 100kW more than Bandit.1
#637
Sure thing. Will share with you guys the result. Btw, why do you said that Bandit and Plutonium v2 are completely and Plutonium don't even go there? What's the difference since both are outlaw, adjustable timing, 17.5T? The only difference I can see is the rpm which Plutonium is 100kW more than Bandit.1
Keep us informed as to your results
Cheers,
Ren.
#638
Tech Adept
No problem. Thanks for your explanation.
#639
Tech Adept
I have changed my FDR to 3.52 with about 2.5 timing on the motor. It has slightly more torque as compared with my previous 3.33 FDR. However, I noticed that the breaking response is slower than my previous motor, given the same setup and tyres. I have set my HobbyWing XR10 Pro 160A ESC's drag break to 0% and break control to 100% (the max), but the break response doesn't seems to have much improvement. I supposed it has something to do with my Team Powers Plutonium v2 17.5T motor since the break response is slower after changing to this motor. Any idea what can I do to improve the break response (e.g. Change the default rotor to a bigger or smaller diameter)? I don't feel like changing my current Team Powers motor since I just bought it and it's a waste if I switch to another new motor of different brand.
#640
Hi Guys
I bought a Team Powers ("TP") Plutonium v2 17.5T motor today and the shop owner told me that it is an outlaw motor even though the box and the specs stated that this motor is ROAR, IFMAR, etc. approved motor.
May I know is this an outlaw motor with 2400KV as compared with other 17.5T motor like Hobbwing Bandit G2 and Nosgram that are 2300KV?
In addition, in the manual, what do they mean by:
1. 2400KV /RPM;
2. 4 for medium track and
3. 4.7 for small track.
I'm new to RC and don't know understand about motor RPM/KV measurements.
Can someone please help me to understand my questions above?
Thank you.
I bought a Team Powers ("TP") Plutonium v2 17.5T motor today and the shop owner told me that it is an outlaw motor even though the box and the specs stated that this motor is ROAR, IFMAR, etc. approved motor.
May I know is this an outlaw motor with 2400KV as compared with other 17.5T motor like Hobbwing Bandit G2 and Nosgram that are 2300KV?
In addition, in the manual, what do they mean by:
1. 2400KV /RPM;
2. 4 for medium track and
3. 4.7 for small track.
I'm new to RC and don't know understand about motor RPM/KV measurements.
Can someone please help me to understand my questions above?
Thank you.
i was looking at this team powers V2 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-po...0actv2/p544032
it shows legal at 2500KV? i'm puzzled?
#641
The V2 ACTINIUM is legal whereas the PLUTONIUM V2 is not. Due to the STATOR lamination's gap being too close. That's it.
Cheers, Ren.
Cheers, Ren.
#642
Tech Apprentice
Has anyone got any experience in comparing the Plutonium V2 against the Actinium V2 (17.5t to be really specific)?
I love my Plutonium and was thinking of an upgrade.
I love my Plutonium and was thinking of an upgrade.
#643
What are the differences between the V2 Actiniums, 'Asian Spec' purchased in HK & 'ROAR' spec in the USA.
Is it just the added KV value written on the can of the asian spec motor plus the rotor that is different between the two? Are the internals the same?
Can you swap out the rotor for a ROAR spec version and have a legal motor?
Is it just the added KV value written on the can of the asian spec motor plus the rotor that is different between the two? Are the internals the same?
Can you swap out the rotor for a ROAR spec version and have a legal motor?
#644
Reviving an old thread. I picked up a like new actinium v1 the other day in a 8.5t, all stock. I run purpose built dirt oval cars for higher grip surfaces. A lot of guys run 6.5t, no roar rules and open speedo. Set the motor up for 30 degrees on can but thinking a better rotor is in order. Should I order a 12.7 or 13.0 or run the 12.5? Cars weight about 94oz, short course truck based. Thanks for any info.
#645
Tech Addict
probably a 12.5 but I'm not positive