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Old 12-17-2014, 12:22 PM   #496
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Just wondering how you determined which way you had to go. Was this visually, kinda like bending the sensor tabs until it looked right? My motor phases are off a few degrees and I was wondering if it's even with it to try.
I didn't bend the sensors or anything on the board, I simply pushed the sensor board to slightly bend the tines it sits on, moving the whole board relative to the rotor.

The way of "adjusting" worked like this: The motor started out reading A:40, B38, C36 (just as example). Now, when you look at the motor endbell, the rotor turns clockwise from your view. The A phase is on the left bottom, the B phase is on top, and the C phase is on the right bottom. To retard the A phase, advance the C phase, and leave the B phase alone you would have to bend the board slightly up, toward the B phase winding/sensor. This means that in moving the board you have moved the A phase sensor away from the direction of rotation (which is Up on the left hand side of the motor) retarding the timing, the C phase sensor toward the direction of rotation (down on the right hand side of the motor) and advancing the timing, and the B phase should be unaffected.

Worked for me at least. Then again I was only out by a few degrees.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:08 AM   #497
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Tonight, I did some testing/fixing on my TP21.5 V2 motor. I decided to take a look at the height of each Hal sensor. Not surprisingly, the height of each sensor was off by quite a bit. I ended up adjusting the height of each Hal section by carfully applying heat to the tines and raised or lowered the board slightly. A quickly touch of the soldering iron and it worked like a charm. All the heights of each sensors were correct. I even measured the heights using a vernier caliper. To my surprise, this improved sensors A and B. In fact they are now exactly the same in degrees. However, C is still way off.

Upon closer examination of the Hal sensors. I found out the Hal sensors surfaces were not damaged. But it was black grease. From where? I have no idea. Fooled me. It totally looked like heat from a soldering iron damaged the plastic.

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Old 12-18-2014, 07:09 AM   #498
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Before adjustments to the Hal sensor heights.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:13 AM   #499
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After Hal sensor height adjustment.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:21 AM   #500
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One interesting thing I stumbled upon while testing this motor was the amount of torque applied to the long motor screws. This actually affected the motor phases by a few degrees. If you don't apply the correct amount of torque on all three screws then the readings can change by a few degrees.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:47 AM   #501
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I've been saying this for so long. The Team Powers motors are definitely right at the top of best spec motors and they are reasonably priced.
FYI, I geared down one teeth and no more fade. Love these motors
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:27 PM   #502
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Bought a V1 and the numbers are pretty damn close.
I sent the V2 back for replacement.

That's more like it
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:07 PM   #503
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Yep it does sound like the sensor board. When you said the car just sat there then started up, it sounded like you were getting brown out and the receiver and/or ESC got below it minimum operating voltage and shut off especially with 1C. I've experienced that with my Tekin ESCs and it then takes a few seconds for the ESC to restart before I have motor again. I'm not familiar with the high end HW ESCs either, but if the sensor board doesn't fix the problem check the ESC. BTW I fixed my brown out problem by setting the current limiter on my ESC to 80 amps instead of the default setting of unlimited.
I too am having 1s starting issues. I conducted a little experiment where I would load the motor slightly by holding one wheel and depending on where the rotor stopped, it may or may not start on its own. When it remains still when I pull the trigger the motor will begin to run if I rotate the wheel ever so slightly as if the rotor field was aligned between phases and didn't know which way to rotate. I would venture to say that the sensor board is a little wonky especially when you see how poorly designed/assembled it is compared to the rest of the motor.
I have the Plutonium V1 17.5t with the 12.5mm rotor which is what it came with. I read so many confirmations that this motor only came with the 12.3mm rotor but that's not entirely true. At least the 17.5 was available in 2 flavors, standard and off road/torque versions. I have the torque model.
Now my real question is... What would be the best configuration for 17.5 1/12 scale on a fairly small carpet track such as TQ? 12.3 or 12.5 rotor and how much static timing? Most guys are running around 100mm roll out but I'm thinking this motor is more rev oriented. Perhaps somewhere in the high 80s would be better? I can see that I am noticably down on power compared to most of the other drivers in this class, the car drives great though. I just want to get closer to the sweet spot as that is super critical in 1s blinky racing.

Thanks
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:44 AM   #504
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I too am having 1s starting issues. I conducted a little experiment where I would load the motor slightly by holding one wheel and depending on where the rotor stopped, it may or may not start on its own. When it remains still when I pull the trigger the motor will begin to run if I rotate the wheel ever so slightly as if the rotor field was aligned between phases and didn't know which way to rotate. I would venture to say that the sensor board is a little wonky especially when you see how poorly designed/assembled it is compared to the rest of the motor.
I have the Plutonium V1 17.5t with the 12.5mm rotor which is what it came with. I read so many confirmations that this motor only came with the 12.3mm rotor but that's not entirely true. At least the 17.5 was available in 2 flavors, standard and off road/torque versions. I have the torque model.
Now my real question is... What would be the best configuration for 17.5 1/12 scale on a fairly small carpet track such as TQ? 12.3 or 12.5 rotor and how much static timing? Most guys are running around 100mm roll out but I'm thinking this motor is more rev oriented. Perhaps somewhere in the high 80s would be better? I can see that I am noticably down on power compared to most of the other drivers in this class, the car drives great though. I just want to get closer to the sweet spot as that is super critical in 1s blinky racing.

Thanks
I ran a powers motor last time I was at TQ, I do not think you will be able to get on pace unless you run a rollout of 95+. It had been 6mo since the last time I drove and I was rusty but I needed a rollout over 100 to get even close to the pace. I know of a couple racers that were running around 110 rolloutS on that layout.
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:49 AM   #505
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I ran a powers motor last time I was at TQ, I do not think you will be able to get on pace unless you run a rollout of 95+. It had been 6mo since the last time I drove and I was rusty but I needed a rollout over 100 to get even close to the pace. I know of a couple racers that were running around 110 rolloutS on that layout.
Thanks Chris,
I am at ~98mm at the moment it still seems a bit slow last time I was there for practice. lap times were around (9.8-10.2) The fast guys are running in the 9.4 range. How bout rotors? Should I stick with the 12.5mm rotor or go for more RPM with the 12.3mm? I'm running a HW v3.1 1S ESC and fresh TP batteries.

Maybe there are some ESC settings that can help a little? Since it's blinky, there's not much to change. I added some turbo during practice to see if more speed was the issue and sure enough... I dropped 2-3 tenths immediately so now I'm chasing power.
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:32 PM   #506
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Thanks Chris,
I am at ~98mm at the moment it still seems a bit slow last time I was there for practice. lap times were around (9.8-10.2) The fast guys are running in the 9.4 range. How bout rotors? Should I stick with the 12.5mm rotor or go for more RPM with the 12.3mm? I'm running a HW v3.1 1S ESC and fresh TP batteries.

Maybe there are some ESC settings that can help a little? Since it's blinky, there's not much to change. I added some turbo during practice to see if more speed was the issue and sure enough... I dropped 2-3 tenths immediately so now I'm chasing power.
10.2 was the best I could do on the layout I ran on with the top times around 9.6ish and the fast guys averaging around 9.8 overall. I also am running the same motor and esc combo you are but my batts are two yrs old and may be a factor in my performance. Also like you towards the end of the weekend I began to have issues with the car not starting when I pulled the trigger, but this did not start until I had advanced the timing to almost full. I need to play around with the esc settings and timing to see if I can get rid of this problem; however with no tracks here and TQ (the closest track) a 10hr round trip it will be awhile before I get the chance to mess with this.

But back to your question, almost everyone that I talked to that was fast that day was running the new SS (short stack) motors with high torque rotors as this seems to be the ticket in 1S racing right now. I suspect that if you changed to the 12.3 rotor you would see slower lap times but that is just my guess. I think in order to keep up I(you) may have to purchase a new SS motor, just the cost of going fast I guess.
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Old 02-05-2015, 02:05 PM   #507
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But back to your question, almost everyone that I talked to that was fast that day was running the new SS (short stack) motors with high torque rotors as this seems to be the ticket in 1S racing right now. I suspect that if you changed to the 12.3 rotor you would see slower lap times but that is just my guess. I think in order to keep up I(you) may have to purchase a new SS motor, just the cost of going fast I guess.
The Powers is a SS motor, if you measure the stator you will see it's 19.3. It was just the first one and people didn't realize it.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:16 PM   #508
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The Powers is a SS motor, if you measure the stator you will see it's 19.3. It was just the first one and people didn't realize it.

Are you sure about that for the Plutonium V1 motors?? I have been told that the new Actinium line of motors is SS but not the older Plutonium V1 motors.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:40 PM   #509
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
I too am having 1s starting issues. I conducted a little experiment where I would load the motor slightly by holding one wheel and depending on where the rotor stopped, it may or may not start on its own. When it remains still when I pull the trigger the motor will begin to run if I rotate the wheel ever so slightly as if the rotor field was aligned between phases and didn't know which way to rotate. I would venture to say that the sensor board is a little wonky especially when you see how poorly designed/assembled it is compared to the rest of the motor.
I have the Plutonium V1 17.5t with the 12.5mm rotor which is what it came with. I read so many confirmations that this motor only came with the 12.3mm rotor but that's not entirely true. At least the 17.5 was available in 2 flavors, standard and off road/torque versions. I have the torque model.
Now my real question is... What would be the best configuration for 17.5 1/12 scale on a fairly small carpet track such as TQ? 12.3 or 12.5 rotor and how much static timing? Most guys are running around 100mm roll out but I'm thinking this motor is more rev oriented. Perhaps somewhere in the high 80s would be better? I can see that I am noticably down on power compared to most of the other drivers in this class, the car drives great though. I just want to get closer to the sweet spot as that is super critical in 1s blinky racing.

Thanks
I've had the same thing happen to me running the v2 in 1/12 scale with HW 3.1-1 cell when I cranked the timing that I needed a push to start my main. It seems that the HW does not like all that timing as I reinstalled my tekin RS with max timing and no other change with no more problems. Run the HW with 2 marks from max and it seems to work fine. As far as roll out I've found it likes to run around 98-102 roll out.
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Old 02-05-2015, 04:09 PM   #510
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Thanks Chris,
I am at ~98mm at the moment it still seems a bit slow last time I was there for practice. lap times were around (9.8-10.2) The fast guys are running in the 9.4 range. How bout rotors? Should I stick with the 12.5mm rotor or go for more RPM with the 12.3mm? I'm running a HW v3.1 1S ESC and fresh TP batteries.

Maybe there are some ESC settings that can help a little? Since it's blinky, there's not much to change. I added some turbo during practice to see if more speed was the issue and sure enough... I dropped 2-3 tenths immediately so now I'm chasing power.
Here in Japan we run 21.5/2cell and the TP V1,V2's are missiles when you add a 13.0 mm rotor. Everyone that races this class buys this motor. Everyone. I presume you are running ROAR rules?If so, I would look at getting the 12.5 rotor. Torque is king.
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