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Old 12-12-2014, 09:12 PM   #481
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Oh, we don't run the 12.5 rotors in Japan. We throw in a 13.0 mm rotor instead.
What does a 13mm rotor do? Does it make it faster or just more torque?
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Old 12-15-2014, 02:32 AM   #482
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I have a team powers actinium. I'm running it in 12th scale and it has to be push started. When starting the main it just sits there for a few seconds and then starts rolling. Once going it's a fast motor. Just doesn't start off at all. All my other motors work fine. I'm guessing sensor board. Anyone else have this issue? If so any help much appreciated
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:25 AM   #483
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Changed the sensor wire and same thing. It needs to be push started. Im running 100mm rollout with max timing. Tried less timing and it did nothing to help.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:37 AM   #484
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I have a team powers actinium. I'm running it in 12th scale and it has to be push started. When starting the main it just sits there for a few seconds and then starts rolling. Once going it's a fast motor. Just doesn't start off at all. All my other motors work fine. I'm guessing sensor board. Anyone else have this issue? If so any help much appreciated
Could be that or a lot of other things. Check the sensor wire and make sure it is not damaged and check the solder joints at the motors. Both have caused cogging with my motors in the past, as well as bad sensor boards. Also check the current limiter or punch controi on the ESC to make sure you are getting enough current to the motor to get it started.

PS do you have steering when the car is sitting there just before it starts moving?
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:42 AM   #485
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This actinium motors are fast!! I tried a 17.5 yesterday and its fast like my $130 R1 premium.
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:19 AM   #486
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This actinium motors are fast!! I tried a 17.5 yesterday and its fast like my $130 R1 premium.
I have both and the R1 premium is no where as fast overall in 5 minute main. The Team Powers has slightly more fade near the end of the run but it is still faster lap after lap.
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:58 AM   #487
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Could be that or a lot of other things. Check the sensor wire and make sure it is not damaged and check the solder joints at the motors. Both have caused cogging with my motors in the past, as well as bad sensor boards. Also check the current limiter or punch controi on the ESC to make sure you are getting enough current to the motor to get it started.

PS do you have steering when the car is sitting there just before it starts moving?
Yes I have steering. Running the hobbywing 1s. Any idea of settings? And my Team Scream works fine with this sensor wire. I have soldered twice. Im 99.9% its sensor board. Just hoping for a little more info.
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:03 PM   #488
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Yes I have steering. Running the hobbywing 1s. Any idea of settings? And my Team Scream works fine with this sensor wire. I have soldered twice. Im 99.9% its sensor board. Just hoping for a little more info.
The 1s had some cogging issues and such, have you tried updating the firmware on your hw?
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:00 PM   #489
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I am not famiar with the HW line of speed controls. PM me your info and I will get you a new sensor board in the mail.

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Old 12-16-2014, 11:15 AM   #490
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Yes I have steering. Running the hobbywing 1s. Any idea of settings? And my Team Scream works fine with this sensor wire. I have soldered twice. Im 99.9% its sensor board. Just hoping for a little more info.
Yep it does sound like the sensor board. When you said the car just sat there then started up, it sounded like you were getting brown out and the receiver and/or ESC got below it minimum operating voltage and shut off especially with 1C. I've experienced that with my Tekin ESCs and it then takes a few seconds for the ESC to restart before I have motor again. I'm not familiar with the high end HW ESCs either, but if the sensor board doesn't fix the problem check the ESC. BTW I fixed my brown out problem by setting the current limiter on my ESC to 80 amps instead of the default setting of unlimited.
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:33 AM   #491
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Jamison R Please try turning your throttle curve to custom and changing the bottom to start at 15-20% This should get rid of cogging at bottom end of throttle.
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Old 12-16-2014, 04:28 PM   #492
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Does the V1, V2, and Actinium use the same sensor board?
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:43 PM   #493
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This actinium motors are fast!! I tried a 17.5 yesterday and its fast like my $130 R1 premium.
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Originally Posted by b20btec View Post
I have both and the R1 premium is no where as fast overall in 5 minute main. The Team Powers has slightly more fade near the end of the run but it is still faster lap after lap.
I've been saying this for so long. The Team Powers motors are definitely right at the top of best spec motors and they are reasonably priced.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:29 AM   #494
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After doing a little bending around of my sensor board my Actinium 17.5 now reads perfect on my motor checker, each phase is exactly the same number of degrees of advance. I wonder if it will help as much as we seem to think...
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Old 12-17-2014, 12:08 PM   #495
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After doing a little bending around of my sensor board my Actinium 17.5 now reads perfect on my motor checker, each phase is exactly the same number of degrees of advance. I wonder if it will help as much as we seem to think...
Just wondering how you determined which way you had to go. Was this visually, kinda like bending the sensor tabs until it looked right? My motor phases are off a few degrees and I was wondering if it's even with it to try.
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