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Old 12-10-2014, 01:36 PM   #451
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
I've had some way off too (not team Powers stuff). Won't menti0n who, but I just ordered a couple of new sensor boards, hopefully one of those will have the sensors better aligned.
So why don't you just fix the boards you have?
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Old 12-10-2014, 02:21 PM   #452
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So why don't you just fix the boards you have?
If I knew how I probably would.
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Old 12-10-2014, 02:58 PM   #453
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So why don't you just fix the boards you have?
I'm kinda interested too whether you should or can fix misalignment in the sensor board. This way we can maximize performance from any board off the shelf. just a thought.
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Old 12-10-2014, 03:21 PM   #454
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3 SMALL solders on the sensor....
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Old 12-10-2014, 03:41 PM   #455
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If you can do that, you have really, really steady hands and good soldering skills.

I am quite confused how it could be out 20 degrees, my board has one sensor that is out 2 degrees and you can tell which one it is by looking at it. If the sensor is really out 20 degrees it must have fallen off the sensor board.
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Old 12-10-2014, 03:42 PM   #456
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I don't know myself but I have heard that hall sensors are VERY sensitive to heat and easily killed when soldering.
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Old 12-10-2014, 03:51 PM   #457
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I'll have to tear apart the motor and check the sensor boards and take a picture. As for performance on the track it has gobs of torque and power. Regardless of it's on track performance, I'm not to sure if the overall performance is diminished by the timing sensors being out by so much.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:19 AM   #458
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Here is a picture of the sensor board.
Attached Thumbnails
TEAM POWERS NEW PLUTONIUM MOTORS-image.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:08 AM   #459
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what exactly do you mean by '20 degrees off'??
Do you mean one of the sensors if off by 20 compared to the other two sensors?
or
Do you mean you used some device to measure the timing and it read 20 different than what you expected based on the endbell?
or
?
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:18 AM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
If I knew how I probably would.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobyzhang View Post
I'm kinda interested too whether you should or can fix misalignment in the sensor board. This way we can maximize performance from any board off the shelf. just a thought.
I'm thinking on a small variance you probably don't even have to unsolder the sensor, but at 20 that one should be hanging off the pad almost. (doesn't look like it though?)
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Old 12-11-2014, 11:13 AM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
what exactly do you mean by '20 degrees off'??
Do you mean one of the sensors if off by 20 compared to the other two sensors?
or
Do you mean you used some device to measure the timing and it read 20 different than what you expected based on the endbell?
or
?
I think that's what he means, his zero on the endbell is 20 degrees on his g force checker. I thought his statement originally was 20 off per phase.
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:44 PM   #462
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-4 = 20
0 = 40
+4 = 60

All plus or minus a couple of degrees.

We have not sold a Plutonium since last November in the US. We have never carried the V2 as it was never sent in for ROAR certification.

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Old 12-11-2014, 03:49 PM   #463
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Originally Posted by b20btec View Post
I think that's what he means, his zero on the endbell is 20 degrees on his g force checker. I thought his statement originally was 20 off per phase.
Sorry, should of been more specific. The problem is phase A is 47 , B is 37 , C is 27. I tired using the motor checker again and the motor will not produce any timing readings since they all read "OUT." Regardless of where I sent the timing on the can it produces the same readings stating "OUT.". No, it's not the motor checker. I've tried other motors to make sure.. Yes, I used a fully charged battery pack... Also, it will not operate when doing the KV/RPM check. The motor sensor board is toast, it was obviously damaged during the manufacturing process. There are two sensor pickups that show burn marks from a soldering iron.

Just need to figure out how to get this replaced...
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:55 PM   #464
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My suspicion: your sensor board is bent on the tines and not centered on the rotor. Try bending it back in the direction of the B sensor, this will advance the C sensor and retard the A sensor without changing the B sensor in its receiving of the signal.
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:58 PM   #465
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Thanks for your advice Desertrat. However, I might just send it back to the hobby shop and get a new one. I don't think bending it will fix the problem, but I do appreciate your suggestion. It's hard to notice in the photos, but the sensors show damage from the soldering process. If you look at IC2 and IC3 on the board, you'll see the damage.

For the one time I tried it out on the track I was impressed. I'll definitely get another one for sure.
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