RCJammer

iTrader: (5)

I have seen some models like Corsair's push past their ratings, but these overperformers are typically also rated at 50 degrees C, made with Japanese capacitors, etc, where as most others are rated at 25C (room temp) and may or may not include the best hardware in its parts list.

That's why its so important to not just buy the cheapest PS you can find. Also note that even if the PS is rated for say 500 watts, that is its total power output (total of its 5v 3.3v and 12v supplies). The 12v is what we care about and it may only contribute 350 watts, so pay attention to the specs.

ganymede

iTrader: (2)

Exactly!

looklikeaflip

iTrader: (1)

Looks like im just gonna settle for the Thunder AC6. Has great reviews..

so much for non stop run time at the track...

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

Is that the one with a loud fan that I see a lot of complaints about?

RCaddict0

iTrader: (85)

Well, like I asked...Am I ok charging my 2s lipos with the power suppy
Charger
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dyc-1004.html
Power Supply
http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-ac001-powersupply.html
Lipos
4500mAh 2s, 5000mAh 2s and 4000mAh 2s

ganymede

iTrader: (2)

Yup! That's the one! Built like a rock but sounded like a leaf blower...

nev_neo

iTrader: (7)

How long would it take to charge up each battery ?

looklikeaflip

iTrader: (1)

Ah... Now i see...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...scrollFullInfo

The output has "dual outputs." 12V1@16A and 12V2@16A.

Does that allow me to wire both together to get a total of 384 watts?

And its efficiency is 70% making its max output 268.8?

Can I somehow join another PS to it to increase its max output?

Thanks for all the input...

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

At a 1C charge rate, it takes about an hour if the lipo is completely dishcarged and the charge time doesn't depend on lipo size or cell count.

ganymede

iTrader: (2)

Not sure whether it is a double rail or a virtual double rail, but you can group the two rails together to get 32A total, the only thing that might hinder you is the size of the individual wires, some PC PSU has small gauge wires, not sure how will they fare if it is pulling a big arse charger...

RCJammer

iTrader: (5)

Ganymede answered your first question.

Remember, it is a power supply rated to supply the 384 watts on that 12V rail. Dont let the efficiency details confuse you. The 70% just tells you it will waste 30% of the power it draws from the wall to supply that 384 watts. Specifically it will use 384/0.7 = 548 watts from your wall outlet, but that's only important to someone that for example might be planning to build a large number of computers with these. If that were the case they would probably would want to use power supplies rated above 80% so as to reduce their electric bill, but for us, the efficiency on a Power supply does not matter like it does for our chargers. Our chargers will waste power input like the power supplies do, and that waste (charger waste) IS important to us, because it dictates how much the charger will output for a given power input...

Yes you can join two power supplies together in series. This will double the voltage and in turn double the watts that the whole system will output. I would rank the difficulty of this mod an intermediate electronics procedure, because you really need to know what you are doing.

Firstly, start with 2 identical power supplies. The 12V ground from the first power supply goes to your charger (-). The +12V then gets tied to the 12V ground of the second power supply and the +12V of the second power supply goes to your charger (+). The trick is that the first power supply MUST remain grounded so that it provides the 0V reference. The second power supply MUST FLOAT from ground, or in other words, its ground must be disconnected from the wall outlet power wire/case ground. This is the tricky part, as sometimes breaking the ground of the power supply may not be as simple as clipping a wire. Some power supply manufacturers may ground through the metal stand-offs for the circuit board. If you make this mod, you must verify that the second power supply 12V ground lead no longer connects electrically to the ground wire going to the wall, nor the case of the power supply. In doing this you make the voltage reference for the second power supply +12V (instead of 0V like it is for the first power supply). The voltages will then effectively stack to make +24V.

Redlinez

iTrader: (1)

So, how do you "hook" up the power supply to that Dynam supermate?