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Old 08-27-2010, 04:57 AM
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Default Serious motor issues

So, I just finished building up my Losi XXX-T-CR. I decided to swap electronics from my B4 and put them in that truck. The set up is a Traxxas servo, Mamba max pro esc and Trnity Duo motor(sensored). First run was good. Motor temps did get pretty high. After about fifteen minutes later, after screwing around with different receivers, I turn on the esc and I smell this horrible smell. Like really discussing. I thaught it was my cheap RX. I sniff around. Bam, I sniff the motor and I am buzzzed. So, I realised that the motor is getting reeeeeeaaaaaaaallllyyyyyyy hot while in neutral. I turn off the truck right away. Motor is still freakin hot. So, I go outside to open up the motor that smells bad and I discover that the amature is black. I scrape the black **** of the amature with a hex driver and it barely comes off. I then slip my finger thru the motor can and my finger is black.

My question is what the hell caused this? I want to try out another motor but I don't want this to happen to it also.
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Old 08-27-2010, 06:07 AM
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I think motor got hotter than you though. May have demagged it. Once demagged, they can act like a short.
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Old 08-27-2010, 06:11 AM
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Ah, yes that makes sense. I overworked it during the first 10 minutes. I didn't even check the temps often. But, I did once and the motor was really hot. Then, I guess when I wanted to try it again a few hours later, the motor was probably cooked. It even locked up on me. So, I guess I should of been more carefull and check the temperatures more often.

I will post some pictures of the motor. The rotor is black and I have a tuff time scrapping the black off. I guess I really cooked it.
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Old 08-27-2010, 06:37 AM
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Wow,apparently whatever was used to coat the rotor to strengthen/seal it you've cooked completely. Would have been curious to know how hot that really got.

It can be so distracting running that it just gets forgotten to check things like temps (or run time if you don't have a lvc). With a new setup, you should be checking time after a few min and adjusting gearing accordingly. It can be a pia, but its needed to get the equip so it runs at decent temps so it can last. You can over/under gear a setup badly and its not very forgiving.
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:58 AM
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Oh ya, the rotor is black. I can almost not remove the black off it. Also, the coils in the can are burned to death. I guess the motor was up to 200 f I guess. It was really hot. The motor was still burning hot after 15minutes.

I am trying to get a LRP X-11 4.5 turn motor. That should be more than enough power on a 6 cell. This time, I will check temps often with my thumb.
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by B4power
Oh ya, the rotor is black. I can almost not remove the black off it. Also, the coils in the can are burned to death. I guess the motor was up to 200 f I guess. It was really hot. The motor was still burning hot after 15minutes.

I am trying to get a LRP X-11 4.5 turn motor. That should be more than enough power on a 6 cell. This time, I will check temps often with my thumb.
First a 4.5 is way too much power for a ST, but that's your call. Second, you really need to get a temp gun of some type. Checking BL motors "with your thumb" is just not a good way to go. Your thumb can't tell the difference from 160 deg. which is safe and 180 which is not.
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:08 AM
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Yea, I will get a temp gun.

I am just using the 4.5 for bashing.
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:26 AM
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Nobody should be without something like this -


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEMG5&P=ML



My guess - it was way over 200F......
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Old 08-28-2010, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Duster_360
Nobody should be without something like this -


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEMG5&P=ML



My guess - it was way over 200F......
I have had that temp gun for years got it back when I was in nitro.. Has been a good thing to have. I agree prob. well over 200 to burn the enamel on the coils..
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Old 08-28-2010, 10:56 AM
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I also pickup up one of those years ago. MIne still has the original battery after who knows how many years. I keep a Raytek in my toolbox at work, and this Duratrax has never shown a difference of more than 0.1-0.2F from my $100+ gun. Unfortunately after recommending one to a friend, he picked it up. His consistently shows 20-40F higher than mine. I checked all settings but its all the same.
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:49 AM
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I had one of the Duratrax ones and it was always way off. For the $35 bucks this one has always been dead on for me and it holds the highest temp so you can move it around and find the actual hotest point..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLXW8&P=ML
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Old 08-29-2010, 02:17 PM
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I wanted a smaller IR gun than the Raytec I was using, its a great gun, but big and it seemed to always be somewhere else when I needed it. I bought a DTX FP when they 1st came out - its small, can put it around wrist or stick it in your belt and forget its there til its needed. I've had the same experience as burnineyes - it reads very close to my Raytec. I've also had a chance to compare both directly to an Exergen. For the money the temp diff was not worth the cost of a $275 Exergen.

Obviously DTX's supplier of the FP changed something and the feedback makes it plain it was not for the better. I won't be recommending it any longer. An inaccurate IR Temp device is almost worse than not having one.

That Odonnells IR gage looks lik a nice one.
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