4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
05-21-2011, 04:19 AM
#5071
05-21-2011, 06:14 AM
#5072
Tech Initiate
Anyone know of an eBayer or UK source that sells the genuine ezRun or xeRun stuff?
Seems there are still a few counterfeit traders such as abeyrr, shiptou, ETC.. still selling fake crap.
Seems there are still a few counterfeit traders such as abeyrr, shiptou, ETC.. still selling fake crap.
05-21-2011, 06:43 AM
#5073
05-21-2011, 08:03 AM
#5074
What is this new 3 pin programming? I must have missed that. Will we still be able to use the 2 in 1 LCD programing box?
05-21-2011, 03:41 PM
#5075
Didnt i once read about someone having power, and then shortly loosing almost all of it? I turned off and turned everything back on and it was powered up again.
05-21-2011, 05:25 PM
#5076
Boost depends on the RPM of the motor, and will add timing based on the rpm. It allows the motor to run cooler, and have lots of torque in the infield. Depending on how fast you bring the timing in, it can control the "rip" people talk about.
Take a read in this forum, and you can find lots of information about boost/timing, but you will have to weed through alot of BS too.
Shawn.
Last edited by Shawn68z; 05-21-2011 at 05:27 PM. Reason: Bad spelling.
05-21-2011, 06:42 PM
#5077
Tech Addict
Turbo timing is added to the motor when the Turbo Conditions have been meet. This normally involves only a delay at full throttle before it kicks in. FW211 requires the full throttle delay, and full boost to be applied. Turbo providies the "second gear", on the straight people talk about.
Boost depends on the RPM of the motor, and will add timing based on the rpm. It allows the motor to run cooler, and have lots of torque in the infield. Depending on how fast you bring the timing in, it can control the "rip" people talk about.
Take a read in this forum, and you can find lots of information about boost/timing, but you will have to weed through alot of BS too.
Shawn.
Boost depends on the RPM of the motor, and will add timing based on the rpm. It allows the motor to run cooler, and have lots of torque in the infield. Depending on how fast you bring the timing in, it can control the "rip" people talk about.
Take a read in this forum, and you can find lots of information about boost/timing, but you will have to weed through alot of BS too.
Shawn.
i'm not a sensative driver... but i like to share this, i found that at different boost acceleration 350, 300, 250 n 200, the speed (acceleration) of 'turbo' section (after the delay) is different too... i can say the speed of 'turbo' section is conjuction with turbo timing, which is the faster the 'boost' section is (lower accl value), faster the turbo too... OR i'm wrong... OR any other explaination... OR is the turbo 'acceleration' only depend on turbo ramp/slope...? anyway, this matter is reflect to difference max RPM that will achieve if turbo n boost are related said...
05-22-2011, 01:56 AM
#5078
05-22-2011, 01:57 AM
#5079
Tech Fanatic
Here's a simplified version of what happens when timing is applied.
A DC electric motor has maximum torque at zero revs. As the speed of the motor (revs) builds up, the torque reduces and the revs increase until the back emf (voltage) is equal to the input voltage, and then the motor stops increasing in speed.
During this time, the interaction of the permanent magnetic field (from the rotor) and the electro-magnetic field (from the switching of the coils by the speedo) has the effect of retarding the timing. By increasing the timing, this effect is reduced, and the motor can rev higher. However, if the increase in timing is not matched to the interaction of the magnetic fields, then the motor will not increase in revs, it will continue to draw energy from the cells, and that energy will be converted into heat, not more motor speed - if you get the timing wrong the interaction of the magnetic fields is wrong and the motor will not increase in speed, and the energy from the cells will go into heat.
When you get the boost and turbo and gearing right, the motor will increase in speed, and the car goes faster. When you get it wrong it goes slower. So, if you get the boost timing right, and the motor is gaining speed, and then you introduce the turbo, it will gain more speed. So, it is possible that you see the effect you describe - that when the boost and turbo settings are correct, the turbo seems faster.
If you have too much timing acceleration (say 200), the motor has not reached its full speed, and then you operate the turbo, it is too much for the motor to take. The interaction of the magnetic fields is wrong, and the motor cannot accelerate. If you have the right amount of boost, and the motor has reached its full speed, and then you add the turbo, the motor will continue to accelerate.
Too many drivers put all the timing into the motor as fast as possible, and then find that it gets hot. It is a balance that you can find if you experiment just a little. This can be as difficult as tuning an old BR motor used to be for some drivers, so do what most of us do - copy a set-up from a fast driver! As a general rule of thumb, you need to set the speedo so that the car is fast on the infield - good punch between corners. This involves using as much boost as you can and finding the gear ratio that suits the track. Only use turbo if the straight is so long that the car reaches full speed before it is 2/3rds the way down the straight.
The huge advantage of timing-on-the-fly is that it makes the motor much more efficient throughout its speed (rev) range, so almost any motor can be made to go fast. When you take that away, you have to find a motor with a fixed timing setting on a gear ratio that makes it less inefficient than the others. This means you have buy new motors to try them, and to try all their timing settings. Also, since the motor is less efficient, you also need better cells.
It doesn't matter if you use boost/turbo timing, or fixed timing with a blinky speedo, making it all work properly is just as difficult from some drivers. If the debate about which type of speedos to use is about the cars being too fast, then we need a slower motor. That way everyone can use almost anything on the market and still be fast. If the debate is about the boost-turbo speedos being too difficult to understand, then that difficulty applies equally to the 'blinky' speedos and motors with fixed timing. 'Blinky' speedos will not make it any easier for drivers to understand how to make a car fast, just more expensive! HTH
A DC electric motor has maximum torque at zero revs. As the speed of the motor (revs) builds up, the torque reduces and the revs increase until the back emf (voltage) is equal to the input voltage, and then the motor stops increasing in speed.
During this time, the interaction of the permanent magnetic field (from the rotor) and the electro-magnetic field (from the switching of the coils by the speedo) has the effect of retarding the timing. By increasing the timing, this effect is reduced, and the motor can rev higher. However, if the increase in timing is not matched to the interaction of the magnetic fields, then the motor will not increase in revs, it will continue to draw energy from the cells, and that energy will be converted into heat, not more motor speed - if you get the timing wrong the interaction of the magnetic fields is wrong and the motor will not increase in speed, and the energy from the cells will go into heat.
When you get the boost and turbo and gearing right, the motor will increase in speed, and the car goes faster. When you get it wrong it goes slower. So, if you get the boost timing right, and the motor is gaining speed, and then you introduce the turbo, it will gain more speed. So, it is possible that you see the effect you describe - that when the boost and turbo settings are correct, the turbo seems faster.
If you have too much timing acceleration (say 200), the motor has not reached its full speed, and then you operate the turbo, it is too much for the motor to take. The interaction of the magnetic fields is wrong, and the motor cannot accelerate. If you have the right amount of boost, and the motor has reached its full speed, and then you add the turbo, the motor will continue to accelerate.
Too many drivers put all the timing into the motor as fast as possible, and then find that it gets hot. It is a balance that you can find if you experiment just a little. This can be as difficult as tuning an old BR motor used to be for some drivers, so do what most of us do - copy a set-up from a fast driver! As a general rule of thumb, you need to set the speedo so that the car is fast on the infield - good punch between corners. This involves using as much boost as you can and finding the gear ratio that suits the track. Only use turbo if the straight is so long that the car reaches full speed before it is 2/3rds the way down the straight.
The huge advantage of timing-on-the-fly is that it makes the motor much more efficient throughout its speed (rev) range, so almost any motor can be made to go fast. When you take that away, you have to find a motor with a fixed timing setting on a gear ratio that makes it less inefficient than the others. This means you have buy new motors to try them, and to try all their timing settings. Also, since the motor is less efficient, you also need better cells.
It doesn't matter if you use boost/turbo timing, or fixed timing with a blinky speedo, making it all work properly is just as difficult from some drivers. If the debate about which type of speedos to use is about the cars being too fast, then we need a slower motor. That way everyone can use almost anything on the market and still be fast. If the debate is about the boost-turbo speedos being too difficult to understand, then that difficulty applies equally to the 'blinky' speedos and motors with fixed timing. 'Blinky' speedos will not make it any easier for drivers to understand how to make a car fast, just more expensive! HTH
05-22-2011, 06:43 AM
#5081
Tech Addict
However, if the increase in timing is not matched to the interaction of the magnetic fields, then the motor will not increase in revs, it will continue to draw energy from the cells, and that energy will be converted into heat, not more motor speed - if you get the timing wrong the interaction of the magnetic fields is wrong and the motor will not increase in speed, and the energy from the cells will go into heat.
05-22-2011, 09:43 AM
#5082
Tech Fanatic
Sensored means that the speedo can be told where the rotor is, but it cannot be told how the fluctuating interaction of the magnetic fields is. When the speedo knows where the rotor is, it can tell you angle and speed.
Knowing angle means the speedo can work out when to fire the coils in relation to the instructions you gave it in the programming box. If you told it to increase the timing by one degree per 200 rpm (boost), the speedo will do just that. As it knows what the rpm is, it will deliver one degree every 200 rpm, and if it doesn't see the rpm, it doesn't deliver the timing.
However, when you tell it to put in turbo after X seconds at a rate of XX degrees per seconds, this has no relation to revs - it just does it. So, if the motor has achieved 70% of the boost revs when the turbo comes in, that can be too much timing, causing a poor interaction of the magnetic fields, and thus the motor stops accelerating and just generates heat. That is why turbo is so useless on short tracks, because it comes in when you tell it to, and not when the motor can accept it.
ALWAYS use gear ratio, boost and boost 'timing' (200, 250, 300, etc.) to tune the car on the infield. ONLY if the car is at full speed 2/3 the way down the straight is it useful to use turbo. It's like it was in the old BR days - spring type and pressure, brush type, magnet strength and gear ratio all had to be right for the car to be fast.
If you only use boost, then you are right, once you have found the right settings to get the car to accelerate fast, it will always do that. The problem comes when you throw in turbo, as that is not related to motor speed and that's when the heat problems start. HTH
05-22-2011, 10:17 AM
#5083
Tech Rookie
05-22-2011, 10:19 AM
#5084
The answer for racing in exile he sells to stores and is finding it hard to get the product into the store as most wont even get out of bed for 5% while we have online stores prostituting the price the product will not grow in the UK .Plus if you sell hobbywing support the warranty dont send it to stuart cheeryblost for warranty do you get my drift alot of these online stores want to sell product but not support the customer when something goes wrong.
wnough said .
05-22-2011, 10:47 AM
#5085
How much hobbywing product do you see in uk hobbyshops.Maybe 2 stores? for 5% margins the stores will not take the product thus causing us a real headache for promotion in the UK .
The answer for racing in exile he sells to stores and is finding it hard to get the product into the store as most wont even get out of bed for 5% while we have online stores prostituting the price the product will not grow in the UK .Plus if you sell hobbywing support the warranty dont send it to stuart cheeryblost for warranty do you get my drift alot of these online stores want to sell product but not support the customer when something goes wrong.
wnough said .
The answer for racing in exile he sells to stores and is finding it hard to get the product into the store as most wont even get out of bed for 5% while we have online stores prostituting the price the product will not grow in the UK .Plus if you sell hobbywing support the warranty dont send it to stuart cheeryblost for warranty do you get my drift alot of these online stores want to sell product but not support the customer when something goes wrong.
wnough said .
The other problem with Uk is that say its $80s it will be £80s in Uk