4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
03-29-2011, 02:07 AM
#4456
I am not sure what you want to achieve setting the voltage cutoff to 8.4v? If you set the cut off at 8.4V would the cut off not be engaged as soon as you open the throttle or at least soon after? When measuring the lipo's some are even below 8.4v (8.37 or so), even when they have been fully charged.
Try it your self with fully Charged , it's a worth a try and safer any how.
the Soft-Cutoff is indicate slower
the Cut-off is indicate locked motor with "Red Light Blinking"
after that you will get 3.3v each cell on 2S.
03-29-2011, 02:37 AM
#4457
Thanks but i am not looking for a soft cutoff. I race for 7-8 minutes and will certainly not drain my lipo's that far that i need the soft cutoff.
How did you conduct the experiment? Was it on a circuit or on a bench? And was it just slow driving or did you try it in a racing enviroment? With what car or class etc etc. Just curious.
How did you conduct the experiment? Was it on a circuit or on a bench? And was it just slow driving or did you try it in a racing enviroment? With what car or class etc etc. Just curious.
03-29-2011, 03:04 AM
#4458
Tech Rookie
oh Agno,
and many one who missed point
The cause of the Limit temp, involved many reason material resist,
the most is not the Rotor, the rotor of Brushless is unlike the Brushed, Brushless Rotor Mag, are well enough in such hi temp's,
but the Most Problem is from Coil Coating's and stator coating/Plastics
which will melt in such temp's.
and many one who missed point
The cause of the Limit temp, involved many reason material resist,
the most is not the Rotor, the rotor of Brushless is unlike the Brushed, Brushless Rotor Mag, are well enough in such hi temp's,
but the Most Problem is from Coil Coating's and stator coating/Plastics
which will melt in such temp's.
i get what you mean,
but is it the rotor gets that high 200C i am not sure,
as the gap was Air, unlike Brushed Motor Which is the rotor itself is
the one had Coils and get's Heat's up.
so i think the primary reason is the coil coating melt temp's and stator,
seal. for some how deform in low Temp's Compares to Rotor's able to heat.
but i guess maintain temp's is the best under 80C at the out side to
classic check.
but is it the rotor gets that high 200C i am not sure,
as the gap was Air, unlike Brushed Motor Which is the rotor itself is
the one had Coils and get's Heat's up.
so i think the primary reason is the coil coating melt temp's and stator,
seal. for some how deform in low Temp's Compares to Rotor's able to heat.
but i guess maintain temp's is the best under 80C at the out side to
classic check.
The Problem inside the Cut-Off found
if you run 2S
Be sure to Set Cut-Off to 8.4V with Custom
we found it is not Cell Cut-Off but it is Cell Defined,
We tested
Because of "Soft Cut-Off"
The Car still like to run until The Red Blinking and Locked The Motor.
if set to 7.4V Cut-Off with Custom,
and Keep running the car that way, will Deep Discharged The Lipo,
We found Each cell could failed to 1.9V, that's a dead Cell.
So..
8.4V Cut-Off is much safer for Saving Lipo 2S.
8.4V we found Hobbywing will Protect and Locked at 3.3v per cell.
if you run 2S
Be sure to Set Cut-Off to 8.4V with Custom
we found it is not Cell Cut-Off but it is Cell Defined,
We tested
Because of "Soft Cut-Off"
The Car still like to run until The Red Blinking and Locked The Motor.
if set to 7.4V Cut-Off with Custom,
and Keep running the car that way, will Deep Discharged The Lipo,
We found Each cell could failed to 1.9V, that's a dead Cell.
So..
8.4V Cut-Off is much safer for Saving Lipo 2S.
8.4V we found Hobbywing will Protect and Locked at 3.3v per cell.
right if you set 8.4v the Cut-Off is not engaged even if your's 8.37
Try it your self with fully Charged , it's a worth a try and safer any how.
the Soft-Cutoff is indicate slower
the Cut-off is indicate locked motor with "Red Light Blinking"
after that you will get 3.3v each cell on 2S.
Try it your self with fully Charged , it's a worth a try and safer any how.
the Soft-Cutoff is indicate slower
the Cut-off is indicate locked motor with "Red Light Blinking"
after that you will get 3.3v each cell on 2S.
03-29-2011, 03:08 AM
#4459
Thanks but i am not looking for a soft cutoff. I race for 7-8 minutes and will certainly not drain my lipo's that far that i need the soft cutoff.
How did you conduct the experiment? Was it on a circuit or on a bench? And was it just slow driving or did you try it in a racing enviroment? With what car or class etc etc. Just curious.
How did you conduct the experiment? Was it on a circuit or on a bench? And was it just slow driving or did you try it in a racing enviroment? With what car or class etc etc. Just curious.
Result Kill one Pack's when doing under Cut-Off 7.2v.
03-29-2011, 04:08 AM
#4460
setup for HW metallic lightblue 10.5
Hello Guys,
My HW 60A V2.1 and two metallic lightblue 10.5 motors arrived yesterday. Can you advise me a starting setup for an average size carpet track?
Respect !
Pete
My HW 60A V2.1 and two metallic lightblue 10.5 motors arrived yesterday. Can you advise me a starting setup for an average size carpet track?
Respect !
Pete
03-29-2011, 04:11 AM
#4461
Not had any issues with under voltage and have been running at 3v cut off for ages. Also regularly take it down to the cut off till the motor stops and it still is above 3 volts when tested. My lipos are 6 months old and I could still get 2 5 minute races out of them each no problems
The voltage cut off does what it says. Far as I am concerned there are no issues with it.
The voltage cut off does what it says. Far as I am concerned there are no issues with it.
03-29-2011, 04:20 AM
#4463
I`m planning to use the 110211 firmware with 2in1 firmware 110119. The motor is Hobbywing also.
I race a T3 2011 with rubber tires.
Regarding FDR I really dont know what to use. MayB 6.4 or 6.5 ?
Pete
Last edited by PeterTaal; 03-29-2011 at 04:42 AM.
03-29-2011, 04:36 AM
#4464
Cut-off Correction not 8.4v
set to 7.4.
Soft-Cut-Off
we found V2.0_110119 and V2.0_110213
Had Green Blink, Moved to sensoreless mode Locked.
set to 7.4.
Soft-Cut-Off
we found V2.0_110119 and V2.0_110213
Had Green Blink, Moved to sensoreless mode Locked.
03-29-2011, 04:55 AM
#4465
How was the car speed wise? If it's good, then I'd start off by dropping the DDRS (4) to 1 or 2, and then try lengthening the boost ramp (say 500 or 550).
One thing I note, turbo of 2steps? it's almost not worth it... Could try taking out some of the boost, and putting it into turbo instead (say 35 boost, and 8-10 turbo).
Oh other thing... fan on the motor?
One thing I note, turbo of 2steps? it's almost not worth it...
Could try taking out some of the boost, and putting it into turbo instead (say 35 boost, and 8-10 turbo).Oh other thing... fan on the motor?
Pace was ok but there's loads of room for improvement. Apparently the HW and X12 combo will be the quickest available combination...
We shall see at the weekend if the weather holds out and I'll report back.
03-29-2011, 05:33 AM
#4466
Not had any issues with under voltage and have been running at 3v cut off for ages. Also regularly take it down to the cut off till the motor stops and it still is above 3 volts when tested. My lipos are 6 months old and I could still get 2 5 minute races out of them each no problems
The voltage cut off does what it says. Far as I am concerned there are no issues with it.
The voltage cut off does what it says. Far as I am concerned there are no issues with it.
03-29-2011, 05:45 AM
#4467
Cheers Ed, I'll give that a try. I was running a fan on the motor!
Pace was ok but there's loads of room for improvement. Apparently the HW and X12 combo will be the quickest available combination...
We shall see at the weekend if the weather holds out and I'll report back.
Pace was ok but there's loads of room for improvement. Apparently the HW and X12 combo will be the quickest available combination...
We shall see at the weekend if the weather holds out and I'll report back.
Put it this way; a 17.5 is naturally only ever going to rev to a lower level than a 10.5, in which case, you'll want to run a shorter ramp rate to make sure all the timing is put in before you hit that ceiling.
With a 10.5, you naturally have a larger rev range to get all the timing in, meaning you can run a longer ramp and a higher start rpm, as the motor will be reving more at a given speed.
It's quite possible that dropping a pinion (higher RPM for a given speed), going up on the start RPM (to allow for the increased RPM at the start point) and running an even slower ramp rate (use that rev range!) will be no slower, and keep the temps much cooler... hopefully that all makes sense!
03-29-2011, 05:55 AM
#4468
The Problem was not with Mod, but With Stock,
03-29-2011, 06:10 AM
#4470
What is the current version? I just bought a Hobbywing Extreme Stock a few days ago.. it came with the digital programing lcd box and usb cable... Do you update the software to the box... then hook up the box to the esc.. or when the box is hooked up to the esc and the laptop at the same time.. does it update?
For some reason.. Seems like i only have Steps 1-9 and 11 to adjust.. doesnt go into any timing/boost stuff.
When I press the R/P button.. it says Model 0 Car 0 NO TIMING.
For some reason.. Seems like i only have Steps 1-9 and 11 to adjust.. doesnt go into any timing/boost stuff.
When I press the R/P button.. it says Model 0 Car 0 NO TIMING.