cdwilliams1

iTrader: (38)

Any problems using the justock with an AM radio? I want to upgrade an older car with a Hobbywing JS5 combo but I'm not ready to do the radio too.

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

I'm having an issue with a Hobbywing 120A 1S ESC. It isn't setting the brakes properly.

Set-up mode: Sets neutral fine, sets full throttle fine, I hold the stick in full brake and it won't set, no matter how many times I push the button. If I creet the stick forward then the brake will finally set when it's 7/8 of the way back to neutral.

What steps should I take to try and remedy the problem? I've already tried both blinky and boosted stock software. I've tried setting up the ESC with both 1S and 2S packs, but the problem is the same.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Have you got forward and brake trims set the correct way for the ESC?

M7H

Check the EPA settings of your TX.....

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

All the sub-trims were set to zero before I set the ESC. I haven't checked if I have the channel reversed on the radio (it's probably not), is that what you mean?

Edit: EPA was set to 100% too.

idbdoug

iTrader: (41)

First, make sure u reverse throttle direction in radio
Second, follow directions for setting neutral, forward, and reverse.
Neutral is set first
Forward is set second
Reverse/Brake is set second
Lastly, once calibrated go back and increase MAX BRAKE FORCE. Default is 25%, which almost no brake. Increase to 100% and adjust with radio

See if this helps
idbdoug

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

Ah.

I've been setting max brake and max reverse at 100% with the PC before setting the ESC. I will try not doing that when I get home at the end of the week.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

That's no problem. I did that and it worked fine. Make sure the throttle channel is reversed and that the throttle end points are at 100% and no higher and the speedo will set to the radio just fine.

sizheng

Hi, change your ITEM 1C from Auto to 5.8V or DISABLE, and try.

sizheng

Hi, the normal method to determine the 0 timing is to find the point that with the minimum Amp,while the RPM is relavtively highest.

cyanyde

I do not disagree.

The idea for me was to find the correct baseline at zero degree endbell and zero timing on esc.

It could be that the esc at 0 timing at sensorless mode is not 'true' zero but I will never know that. But if the esc is 'true' 0 timing while in sensorless mode, there is no reason the motor should be spinnning more rpms while at 0 timing in sensored mode right? If everything is in 0 degrees whichever way, the rpm must be consistent in every mode.

M7H

After calibrating, You can check if the ESC reaches 100% throttle and 100% break, because if it does, the green led lights up.
After calibrating, switch the ESC off and on, and while checking the red led on the side off the ESC, give full throttle (just very short, to prevent damage to your motor, if you use boost) the green led should light up, when you hit 100% throttle, you can do the same for the breaks, just make sure you've put breaks at 100% in the setting of the ESC.
If the green led lights up, the ESC reaches it's maximum throttle/break endpoints, and if you still don't have enough breaks then, the problem lies somewhere else.....

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

The problem isn't that I don't have enough brakes, it's the opposite, I have way too much, because I have full brake at just a little below neutral. The drag brake setting becomes quite sensitive too.

I'll try everything everyone has suggested.

lewis110

iTrader: (3)

Dumb question here but did you try to put the brake strength to say 25% on the esc? You can also use your epa on the transmitter so your not experiencing to much brake.

M7H

Maybe you have a lot of exponential set on the brake side on your TX?