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Old 03-23-2014, 06:25 AM   #11671
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Try setting the ESC brake level to 100%, and also make sure when you calibrate the brakes that the EPA is at 100%. Then put the reverse speed to 100%. Sounds weird, but this can have an effect on the brake level of some speedo's.

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gotcha Ed - I was wondering if that would have worked, but was having to do a completely new setup on my car at the track and didn't want to try. I think the original tekin software related brake force to reverse power - so if you reverse at a lower rate, you brakes were almost non-existent. kinda like the reverse setting (when not used), is like the speedo's brake range. set it at 25% (default, I believe), would only give you a 1/4 of the brake range

I'll give it a shot - I'm assuming once you do that, then the brake level is more effective??
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:22 AM   #11672
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V10 hobbywing 13.5 motors
Any thoughts anyone
Is there a version one and two?
Thanks in advance
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:25 AM   #11673
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From what i have heard and seen is only the holder that keeps the timing insert in it's place, changed from plastic to alloy.

Regards Roy
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:59 AM   #11674
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I have the new version of the program box and the 120a 1s version 2.1 . Do I have to have the esc wired to program the esc it wont connect to the program box at all. What am I doing wrong?
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:03 AM   #11675
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You have to use a 2s lipo to get the 1s esc to work and yes you need to connect the esc/reciever cord to the box.
Then turn on the esc and it connects to the box if all is ok.
Read the manual of both devices.

Regards Roy



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Originally Posted by VA_Racer View Post
I have the new version of the program box and the 120a 1s version 2.1 . Do I have to have the esc wired to program the esc it wont connect to the program box at all. What am I doing wrong?
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:13 AM   #11676
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
You have to use a 2s lipo to get the 1s esc to work and yes you need to connect the esc/reciever cord to the box.
Then turn on the esc and it connects to the box if all is ok.
Read the manual of both devices.

Regards Roy
it was kind of unclear the way I read it. do the motor wires need to be connected also?
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:16 AM   #11677
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I always do as i program it when it is in the car


Regards Roy
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:36 AM   #11678
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ok thanks for the help I figured it out. Now another ? is do I have to tell it i'm running a 1s batt or is it automatic and which version is blinky ? I see stock allows timing.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:08 AM   #11679
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Hi guys, I have a xerun 2.1.
Are there any controindications to run with 3s lipo and 5600 Kv motor ?
Everyone use 2s, so I have no informations with a possible use at 3s, but I think this should imply lower ampere so better efficient and low temp.
Any opinions ?
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:28 AM   #11680
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Originally Posted by VA_Racer View Post
ok thanks for the help I figured it out. Now another ? is do I have to tell it i'm running a 1s batt or is it automatic and which version is blinky ? I see stock allows timing.
You'll need to load the '508_no timing' software onto the 120a 1s to have to running in an approved blinky mode.

HiH
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:52 AM   #11681
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No matter what software you have on there, if you set boost/turbo to 0, the ESC will blink like in blinky mode.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:37 PM   #11682
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No matter what software you have on there, if you set boost/turbo to 0, the ESC will blink like in blinky mode.
I'm pretty sure that is only true for the V3/3.1. I'm fairly sure that Ed's advice is accurate for the V2.1.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:56 PM   #11683
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If I set up my v2.1 with mod software and set it to 0 timing, it blinks too. I used to run a 120a in blinky with the latest mod software.
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:50 PM   #11684
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What is the status on Roar blinky approval for 3.1 1s version?

Thanks!
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:00 PM   #11685
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The Hobbywing Xerun-120A V3.1 Stock Spec has met the electrical requirements for ROAR non-timing operation with software version V3.1_121129_Beta.
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