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Old 01-15-2014, 09:34 AM   #11476
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Sounds like a sensor cable to me.
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:21 PM   #11477
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA View Post
tamiya TCS spec racers need that much gear!

One is A TB-03, 21.5 Thunderpower, geared 3.20. I won the TCS nationals in GT3 with its twin last year.

The other one is the TB04 I would like to run in GT2, 17.5 Thunderpower, geared at 3.50.

The cars needs that much gear to be competitive. Gearing down isn't an option!
ok can you tell me your punch rate settings in your throttle control ? also please run the esc and motor without a sensor cable and please tell me does the low rpm cogging go away
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:48 AM   #11478
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I actually come on here to ask the same question as Craig.

In a 1080 gram F1 car.

Orca 21.5 with a Justock

It feels as if there is traction control on the car. Initial punch the car bogs extremely bad on track. It even does this in free rev on the workbench. Sounds slow for 1 second then zings up, like it has boost kicking in.
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:58 AM   #11479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I actually come on here to ask the same question as Craig.

In a 1080 gram F1 car.

Orca 21.5 with a Justock

It feels as if there is traction control on the car. Initial punch the car bogs extremely bad on track. It even does this in free rev on the workbench. Sounds slow for 1 second then zings up, like it has boost kicking in.
Whats you drag brake set at?
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:23 AM   #11480
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On my last run I used 5% drag, 25% force, 0% initial trying to get it to change and it didn't. Like the other guy, it was only effected from a stop or very slow roll. Once it was moving there were no issues.
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:26 AM   #11481
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On my last run I used 5% drag, 25% force, 0% initial trying to get it to change and it didn't. Like the other guy, it was only effected from a stop or very slow roll. Once it was moving there were no issues.
What motor brand and wind you running
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Old 01-16-2014, 04:47 AM   #11482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I actually come on here to ask the same question as Craig.

In a 1080 gram F1 car.

Orca 21.5 with a Justock

It feels as if there is traction control on the car. Initial punch the car bogs extremely bad on track. It even does this in free rev on the workbench. Sounds slow for 1 second then zings up, like it has boost kicking in.
Which F1 are you running? F104v2 diffs u have to run tight. I run same speedo but with 2 different types of trinity based 21.5 with no issues. Can't emphasize enough to try a different sensor wire!!
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Old 01-16-2014, 07:24 AM   #11483
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ORCA 21.5 in the new speed passion car. After thinking about it, pretty sure I done goofed. I probably threw away the brand new sensor wire and put the old junk one on the car
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:27 AM   #11484
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
ORCA 21.5 in the new speed passion car. After thinking about it, pretty sure I done goofed. I probably threw away the brand new sensor wire and put the old junk one on the car
Well I've done worse, lol
Had new HW 3.1 1S speedo 2 weeks and it started acting up or so I thought, not! Found out sensor wire bad. Next week thought I had bad motor but turned out to be stripped nylon nut on 1/12
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:39 AM   #11485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I actually come on here to ask the same question as Craig.

In a 1080 gram F1 car.

Orca 21.5 with a Justock

It feels as if there is traction control on the car. Initial punch the car bogs extremely bad on track. It even does this in free rev on the workbench. Sounds slow for 1 second then zings up, like it has boost kicking in.
I have had this same problem and it always ends up being the deadband set too narrow
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:34 AM   #11486
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Why do you have to run the F104 diff tight??
Use a 1 piece trustbearing in it and it runs smooth as a baby bum and still got traction enough.
Keep in mind that you have to use the spring washers like this-----> )(


Regards Roy

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Which F1 are you running? F104v2 diffs u have to run tight.
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:44 AM   #11487
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Why do you have to run the F104 diff tight??
Use a 1 piece trustbearing in it and it runs smooth as a baby bum and still got traction enough.
Keep in mind that you have to use the spring washers like this-----> )(


Regards Roy
Yep, I use thrust bearing but I was used to setting like a older F103 diff. Even Mr Exotek has referred to older F103 diff being easier to set.
Thanks
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:21 AM   #11488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I actually come on here to ask the same question as Craig.

In a 1080 gram F1 car.

Orca 21.5 with a Justock

It feels as if there is traction control on the car. Initial punch the car bogs extremely bad on track. It even does this in free rev on the workbench. Sounds slow for 1 second then zings up, like it has boost kicking in.
I had the same issue with an F1 car (traction control symptoms). After troubleshooting all sources (motor, sensor wire, radio etc.) I worked with HW Tech support and ended up updating the firmware. Problem solved, plenty of bottom end now.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:23 AM   #11489
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Hi Guys,

Bit of a noob with all this timing stuff, can someone let me know the best settings and firmware for the HW Xerun 90A 10.5T combo and also recommended FDR for medium length medium traction TC bitumen track in a Xray T4 2014?

Much appreciated.
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:10 PM   #11490
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Thanks COBRARACING for the help, your response time is incredible!
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