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Old 11-29-2012, 07:57 PM   #10231
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Originally Posted by Vrooom View Post
I got a xtreme stock esc, I accidently crossed the battery wires only for nenosecond. the sensor? board is burned out, but in sensorless mode, it work ok fine, smoothly accerlate. but when i connect sensor cable, it will not move at standstill unless i push the car forward. any idea how i can fix or resolve it? can anyone repair this? i has this esc for 2 years,

I was told, you can run motor down to 5.5T without boost with certain firmware with xtremestock, is that true?
ok what has happened is that you have damaged one of the phases and thats the reason why it will not work with a sensor from start .

Now that you are running in sensorless mode it will work as esc sends current to two phases because it doesnt know were the rotor of the motor is positioned at any given time and thats the reason it works were with the sensor the esc needs to know were the rotor is positioned as it applies a current only to one phase and thats the reason why when you push the car manually it will start as the hall sensors have detected the rotor at a working position .

You need to send the esc in for repair
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:43 AM   #10232
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Default 21.5t setup

Hey Guys and Girls

Looking for a setup for V3, 21.5t Open (boosted/turbo) on a flowing low traction track, will need to know what FDR to run too.

Thanks
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:40 PM   #10233
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Originally Posted by ScottyTC4NZ View Post
Hey Guys and Girls

Looking for a setup for V3, 21.5t Open (boosted/turbo) on a flowing low traction track, will need to know what FDR to run too.

Thanks
depends so much on the motor you are using, whether it is a torquey or rpm motor!

But fdr is normally around 5.

Boost & turbo dependent on the motor.

Start rpm 1500 to 3000
end rpm 12000 to 15000 rpm
boost by Th
Turbo by Th

as guide if you have been using a 2.1 use similar settings post your rpm start and acc and I can tell you the boost end rpm.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:44 PM   #10234
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I damaged my Tekin and got a Justock as a low cost replacement for a few races until it was repaired. I am not sure I want to take it out. I race 1s/13.5 Blinky WGT and I am on pace with the fastest locals running $200 speeod with a $55 Justock....pretty impressive.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:27 PM   #10235
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Any nice surprises prior to TITC 2013?
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:41 PM   #10236
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
I damaged my Tekin and got a Justock as a low cost replacement for a few races until it was repaired. I am not sure I want to take it out. I race 1s/13.5 Blinky WGT and I am on pace with the fastest locals running $200 speeod with a $55 Justock....pretty impressive.
I wish you would have posted that about 2 days ago...just spend $60 on the Xtreme Stock for a few more options down the road but knew the Justock would have been plenty and now that its on sale for $50 at falconsekido.com i knew i should have stuck with the Justock, Dagnabit!
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:54 PM   #10237
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Just picked up a CRC 1/12 pan car and a Hobbywing 1s ESC....we are running a 13.5 blinky class.....what software version would be best?

I looked thru the thread quite a bit and couldnt find an answer

Thanks
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:11 AM   #10238
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Just picked up a CRC 1/12 pan car and a Hobbywing 1s ESC....we are running a 13.5 blinky class.....what software version would be best?

I looked thru the thread quite a bit and couldnt find an answer

Thanks
For blinky on a 1S Speedo, use the V3_508_NoTiming software, don't forget to remove the voltage cutoff and rebind your transmitter though !
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:10 AM   #10239
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Originally Posted by utah300rum View Post
Just picked up a CRC 1/12 pan car and a Hobbywing 1s ESC....we are running a 13.5 blinky class.....what software version would be best?

I looked thru the thread quite a bit and couldnt find an answer

Thanks
The HW 1S is also a V2 based ESC:

Post #10225
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:34 AM   #10240
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ok, the voltage cut-off...why are you turning that off?
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:27 PM   #10241
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ok, the voltage cut-off...why are you turning that off?
Because there is a bug in the software that has yet to be fixed.

The bug is with 1S packs only .. the ESC thinks it's a low 2S battery and does not recognize it as a 1S. If you set it to something other than "off" then it won't work for 1S applications. So we just turn it off and it works perfectly fine.

It is something that needs to be fixed and has been an issue for a very long time.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:58 PM   #10242
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so if i run 2s packs only do i set the LVC like on my SCT Pro to custom and do a 6.2v as i was told if you do custom it goes of total voltage and so far has worked good but thought about goin back to the 3.2 or 3.0 setting since HW seems to be slightly off on the settings
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:26 AM   #10243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utah300rum View Post
Just picked up a CRC 1/12 pan car and a Hobbywing 1s ESC....we are running a 13.5 blinky class.....what software version would be best?

I looked thru the thread quite a bit and couldnt find an answer

Thanks
Correct me if I am wrong, when setting up the 1S esc you have a 2S plugged into it until all the settings are done?

Cheers
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:48 AM   #10244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry_Hughes View Post
depends so much on the motor you are using, whether it is a torquey or rpm motor!

But fdr is normally around 5.

Boost & turbo dependent on the motor.

Start rpm 1500 to 3000
end rpm 12000 to 15000 rpm
boost by Th
Turbo by Th

as guide if you have been using a 2.1 use similar settings post your rpm start and acc and I can tell you the boost end rpm.
Either a hw 21.5 or a sp mmm 21.5t
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:23 AM   #10245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
so if i run 2s packs only do i set the LVC like on my SCT Pro to custom and do a 6.2v as i was told if you do custom it goes of total voltage and so far has worked good but thought about goin back to the 3.2 or 3.0 setting since HW seems to be slightly off on the settings
If you run 2s only .. you can set it to whatever you want, 3.0, 3.2, custom, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ta04evah View Post
Correct me if I am wrong, when setting up the 1S esc you have a 2S plugged into it until all the settings are done?

Cheers
Rob.
It use to be like that .. however I don't remember doing that recently. I'll have to double check. I think the LVC might be set to "off" by default now, which would solve that particular problem (unless of course you turned it back on).
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