R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Radio and Electronics

Like Tree5Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-25-2012, 03:07 AM   #9931
Tech Adept
 
FunkyDunky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 110
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
Hey Duncan, send me an email [email protected]

Cheers
Chris
Email sent Chris
FunkyDunky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 09:38 AM   #9932
Tech Rookie
 
gastekk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: athens
Posts: 4
Default

anyone?
gastekk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 01:05 PM   #9933
Tech Adept
 
FunkyDunky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 110
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclonetog View Post
Do you have any more info?
Can you tell us the size of the track? Which club you run at?
Also can you post a speedo setup sheet?

Personally I don't run 21.5, but I do have a rough idea where I'd start.
The tracks and clubs vary allot from asphalt with 40m straights to Carpet with 20 metre straights been all round the houses with gearing but depending on the track I have found anything from 5.0 - 6.0 FDR works best
Attached Thumbnails
NEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE-v3-base-21.5.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf V2.1 Base 21.5.pdf (254.0 KB, 132 views)
FunkyDunky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 01:20 PM   #9934
Tech Master
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,914
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

I just bought a xerun 120A v3 esc. I was wondering which terminals I need to solder the power capacitor to? The instructions are not too clear.
RCBuddha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 01:22 PM   #9935
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Carrollton, TX
Posts: 902
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
I just bought a xerun 120A v3 esc. I was wondering which terminals I need to solder the power capacitor to? The instructions are not too clear.
Solder them to the battery posts. + - respectively
hyujmn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 01:33 PM   #9936
Tech Master
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,914
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by hyujmn View Post
Solder them to the battery posts. + - respectively
thanks!
RCBuddha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 01:41 PM   #9937
Tech Lord
 
syndr0me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: 5280 Raceway
Posts: 13,113
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
xerun series oems are only made for the following
orion,sp gt series,Hpi,yokomo .
Hacker? Is that a clone?
syndr0me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 01:43 PM   #9938
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 437
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkyDunky View Post
The tracks and clubs vary allot from asphalt with 40m straights to Carpet with 20 metre straights been all round the houses with gearing but depending on the track I have found anything from 5.0 - 6.0 FDR works best
For a start I'd say add 10 degrees to your boost timing and take 10 degrees off the turbo timing, the motor always seems to run cooler that way to me.

Your boost start RPM is seriously low, looking at the max motor RPM you're at full timing at 50% of your full speed, I'd say try about 4000rpm finishing at about 14000rpm. Conversely I'd be tempted to drop the turbo cut in RPM to 8-9000rpm.

Also I think changing boost set by throttle to "Yes" helps motor temps and stops the car taking off mid corner without you wanting it to.

Obviously these settings would need changing up or down when you alter the track size.

Where about in the UK are you?
cyclonetog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 01:53 PM   #9939
Tech Regular
 
Barry_Hughes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ipswich, England
Posts: 428
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkyDunky View Post
The tracks and clubs vary allot from asphalt with 40m straights to Carpet with 20 metre straights been all round the houses with gearing but depending on the track I have found anything from 5.0 - 6.0 FDR works best
Hi Dunc
as we spoke at WLRC
Put the start rpm up to 1500
End rpm 11000
turbo start 9000 or 10000
turbo by rpm

Works extremely well on smaller & mid size tracks.
haven't found anything that is perfect yet on larger tracks 30m+ straight

Ratio from 4 to 5.25 Corally Pro Red 21.5T
__________________
Built it !
Raced it !
Wrecked it !

Last edited by Barry_Hughes; 09-25-2012 at 01:58 PM. Reason: corrected set up & added ratio
Barry_Hughes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 02:02 PM   #9940
Tech Regular
 
Barry_Hughes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ipswich, England
Posts: 428
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclonetog View Post
For a start I'd say add 10 degrees to your boost timing and take 10 degrees off the turbo timing, the motor always seems to run cooler that way to me.

Your boost start RPM is seriously low, looking at the max motor RPM you're at full timing at 50% of your full speed, I'd say try about 4000rpm finishing at about 14000rpm. Conversely I'd be tempted to drop the turbo cut in RPM to 8-9000rpm.

Also I think changing boost set by throttle to "Yes" helps motor temps and stops the car taking off mid corner without you wanting it to.

Obviously these settings would need changing up or down when you alter the track size.

Where about in the UK are you?
Agree with boost & turbo suggestion, that's virtually what I run.

4000 start does get the motor up and running, have tried around 3000 start but lower is better!
__________________
Built it !
Raced it !
Wrecked it !
Barry_Hughes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 02:15 PM   #9941
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 437
Default

As I said I haven't run 21.5, and didn't get to WLRC this year, or since 2007 :-( (love it there).

Good to know my guestimate system is working well though :-)
cyclonetog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 02:20 PM   #9942
Tech Regular
 
Barry_Hughes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ipswich, England
Posts: 428
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclonetog View Post
As I said I haven't run 21.5, and didn't get to WLRC this year, or since 2007 :-( (love it there).

Good to know my guestimate system is working well though :-)
Unfortunately settings not so good at WLRC!, stuck the 2.1 back in on race day, but that might have been mistake, only 2 rounds quali run due to weather.

It is on the larger tracks like WLRC that the V3 seems to struggle against the V2.1 with a 21.5T motor.

Have sent Dunc my settings
__________________
Built it !
Raced it !
Wrecked it !
Barry_Hughes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 02:35 PM   #9943
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 437
Default

That's quite interesting.
The HPI Flux Pro speedo'd cars were extremely fast in the most part at the Mendip national.
Also before I got the new speedo the Flux Pro had a massive mid range advantage over me at Cotswolds. I think Frank Anderson said changing the speedo gave Ayrton 0.4s a lap at Cotswolds.
cyclonetog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 02:41 PM   #9944
Tech Regular
 
Barry_Hughes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ipswich, England
Posts: 428
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclonetog View Post
That's quite interesting.
The HPI Flux Pro speedo'd cars were extremely fast in the most part at the Mendip national.
Also before I got the new speedo the Flux Pro had a massive mid range advantage over me at Cotswolds. I think Frank Anderson said changing the speedo gave Ayrton 0.4s a lap at Cotswolds.
I think thats the difference - with 13.5 or 10.5 the V3 works extremely well on all size tracks, but the characteristics of the 21.5's seem to be different and most people running V3 in 21.5T have gone back to the V2.1.

It may be because we are little different to the rest of the world in running boosted 21.5 and the firmware has not been designed/updated for us yet
__________________
Built it !
Raced it !
Wrecked it !

Last edited by Barry_Hughes; 09-25-2012 at 11:51 PM. Reason: entered missed word put in italics
Barry_Hughes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 03:07 PM   #9945
Tech Master
 
TCCustoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South Central Michigan
Posts: 1,512
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gastekk View Post
anyone?
try flashing it again, or try to do it on or at another computer...heard sometimes it causes issues but when someone switches computers and reflashes the esc it worked the next time. IF your not getting any response from the ESC that would be the first thing i would check...
__________________
1/10 Traxxas Summit Blue
Axial AX10 Scorpion * Viper VSC 240/55t combo * Hitec HS-7954SH
TCCustoms is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:10 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net