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Old 05-06-2012, 10:01 AM   #8896
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Iam mil spec certified and have seen a lot of racers that solder decent and a lot that dont, so for most it would be a good idea for the wires to be soldered to the v3 just my two cents.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:02 AM   #8897
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I personally think the solder posts are the way to go...you can make your wiring much more neat.
One of the complaints I have with Castle is that most of their speedos dont have that
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:02 AM   #8898
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Hi Guys

I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .

I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .

Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .

what do you guys think ?

regards Angelo
I think that's a great idea, there are a lot of novice racers out there who are truly terrible at soldering. Even those who are decent at it probably prefer not to have to take a soldering iron to a brand new esc and risk overheating the board. I know I don't like doing it.

All black wiring with lettering would be fantastic if you can do it.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:04 PM   #8899
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It's a good idea in general, and if some attention could be paid to the installation, that would be better.

For a v3 12g might be the way to go if the installation was always in a TC, but when it comes to putting the speedo in a WGT or 12th car, 12g is waaaayyyy too big. There are probably as many drivers in these classes who can't solder. They have to take big wires off with the risk of overheating the FETS if they use too small an iron, and then put smaller (16g) wires on without making the mistakes Angelo has outlined.

For other, lower spec speedos, we need 16g wires - who needs 12g on a Justock?!!! It is a great suggestion, but the chances are it will cause as many problems as it solves.

The better idea is to change the posts. Either get rid of them altogether, or change them for hollow posts with a lid on - like an upside down bucket - so that less heat is needed to attach any wires. Just a thought...
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:13 PM   #8900
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
The better idea is to change the posts. Either get rid of them altogether, or change them for hollow posts with a lid on - like an upside down bucket - so that less heat is needed to attach any wires. Just a thought...
Good one!
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:45 PM   #8901
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If you will prewire the v3 please use higher quality wire. The ones that come with the 2.1v speedos is not the best except for off-road where it does not really matter
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:51 PM   #8902
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Originally Posted by FFred View Post
It's right, and wrong, because Yes better have a good soldering iron, but sometimes, for pre-soldered wires, it's better to have a $10 of 100W, than a very good of 30W

I already expreienced this one time, and haing the choice between these two, I can confirm you that the lowprice 100W helped to change wires so easily that the ESC almost didn't get a temp change, while with the high-price 30W, you could burn your finger on the ESC before the wires could be moved.
And since you have less chance to create an internal problem if the ESC stay cold, the choice is simple, I would go with any kind of 80-100W before any soldering iron without enough power, even it costs 10 times the price (for that king of use only ! ).
While I agree that wattage does help, the constant heat is more important. Also a good clean tip of the proper size. I have helped guys that have good irons but the tip they were trying to use was just too small for the job. Also for anyone that has done a good amount of soldering should have a small tube of flux. Pretin and put a little flux were you want the solder to flow to, and it will will much less heat. Most solder contains some amount of rosin flux in the solder, as it is hollow, but it really isn't enough if you are trying to solder 12g or 10g wire. A little flux and all is well. As for the 100w iron, I think that is overkill for anything you are working on. Just keep in mind that a good solder station has constant heat, usually within a couple of degrees. This is what you want.
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:12 PM   #8903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Hi Guys

I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .

I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .

Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .

what do you guys think ?

regards Angelo
I think this is a really good idea, also its good to see a Manufacturer listening to there customers. Has to be black wires though to keep that stealth look
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:03 PM   #8904
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Originally Posted by FLAT OUT View Post
I think this is a really good idea, also its good to see a Manufacturer listening to there customers. Has to be black wires though to keep that stealth look
I completely disagree. There's a lot of reasons why wires might have to be soldered in different orientations. In my case, If the ESC were to ship with pre-soldered wires, I would without a doubt replace the wire and re-solder for my specific application.

IMO, If someone is buying a $230 ESC but won't buy a decent iron (or learn how to use it!) then maybe they should find a different hobby.

Also, not everyone likes black wire (including myself).
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:56 PM   #8905
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Originally Posted by FLAT OUT View Post
I think this is a really good idea, also its good to see a Manufacturer listening to there customers. Has to be black wires though to keep that stealth look
will the bling effect helps to land a spot in the poduim?
sad to say, even the veterans do make mistakes... so i think keep the color codings and up to the owner to change the wires as they seem fit.

for those who are havong problems with their soldering skills, well better ask some help to those who knows rather than waste a $200 buks Esc.... i think that would help.

cheers!!!
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:51 AM   #8906
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There is nothing wrong with the posts, I soldered one up at the track yesterday in 10 mins. Warranty covers product faults, if people need to be taught a $200 dollar lesson to get their friend to solder their speedo then so be it. LRP ESCs are twice as hard to solder, I can't see them changing their design because people don't know their limits
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:08 AM   #8907
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Pre soldered wires on a $200+ ESC seems a right dumb idea, it's bad enough on the lesser range, if you seriously can't solder right, take it to someone who can, but don't go making more work for what should be the bulk of guys using them who customize their wiring.

If there is issue with how hard they are to solder, why not try to make the posts easier to solder to in design, I'm told the Tekin posts are very good, so why not fix the problem, and not mask a flaw?
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:31 AM   #8908
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Probably most races will desolder the wires and put their own wires on. I know i would because the wires will be too thick and not flexible enough to use in my pro10.

Leave it as is, there are just too many types of classes and personal taste.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:07 AM   #8909
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How about presolder with black wires and colored rings at end like orion speedy.......
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:29 AM   #8910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
It's a good idea in general, and if some attention could be paid to the installation, that would be better.

For a v3 12g might be the way to go if the installation was always in a TC, but when it comes to putting the speedo in a WGT or 12th car, 12g is waaaayyyy too big
Maybe the best would be a compromise.
I use 12AWG on the battery wires and 14AWG on the motor wires on one of my cars, and it's actually works even with a big MOD motor on a TC, and it provides more flex between ESC and motor, so should fit for WGT/12th.

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Originally Posted by macdude View Post
While I agree that wattage does help, the constant heat is more important. Also a good clean tip of the proper size. I have helped guys that have good irons but the tip they were trying to use was just too small for the job...
Don't get me wrong, a good soldering station is always the best.
I only talked about having the immediate choice between a 60-100W at $10, with a big enough tip, and a $50 or more but with only 30W and a small tip. In this case, go for the bigger iron even at only $10
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