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Old 05-05-2012, 09:52 AM   #8881
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has anyone got a set for the TP13.5P with the HW extreme or 120a esc, for a 45 meter straight outdoor,
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:16 AM   #8882
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[QUOTE=XSLR8;10694195]
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post

Cogging with lead plugged in on 17.5 settings and without it in.
Check to see if you have negative trim on your throttle when you calibrated to the radio.. Just a shot in the dark.
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:17 AM   #8883
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Ok I have a problem, the xtreme stock speedo my mate has won't flash. When you click upgrade it just comes up with an error message saying it can't install the firmware.

I installed the LCD box software (Hobbywing_USB_Link_setup_V1.64_111011.exe), updated the box to the latest version firmware (which was 1.0.1.8 or something) then tried to choose 930 stock from the list but no go. Tried all of the V3 firmwares available and still no go.

When my mate first received the speedo it was flashed to 508 for running at the club, it was then re-flashed to a stock software (don't know which one) and it was re-flashed when he was out racing last week by a local guy to 323 stock as he was having some problems with his new motor (x12) and now it won't reflash. Any ideas?
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:02 PM   #8884
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Originally Posted by Conrad View Post
Ok I have a problem, the xtreme stock speedo my mate has won't flash. When you click upgrade it just comes up with an error message saying it can't install the firmware.

I installed the LCD box software (Hobbywing_USB_Link_setup_V1.64_111011.exe), updated the box to the latest version firmware (which was 1.0.1.8 or something) then tried to choose 930 stock from the list but no go. Tried all of the V3 firmwares available and still no go.

When my mate first received the speedo it was flashed to 508 for running at the club, it was then re-flashed to a stock software (don't know which one) and it was re-flashed when he was out racing last week by a local guy to 323 stock as he was having some problems with his new motor (x12) and now it won't reflash. Any ideas?
I had this problem also when i tried 323.
323 is speedpassion firmware. i had to downgrade to a a lower V1 firmware (via the speed passion software) and then i could use HW software to upgrade back to 930
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:50 PM   #8885
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Hi Guys

I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .

I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .

Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .

what do you guys think ?

regards Angelo
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:51 PM   #8886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Hi Guys

I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .

I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .

Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .

what do you guys think ?

regards Angelo


I don't have one as of yet but since many esc's also have the end user do the soldering and I've never heard of such a problem, perhaps the problem with the V3 is related to the location of the solder posts and metal around it?
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:58 PM   #8887
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Yeah, I don't like the tone of blaming the customer, other ESCs manage to make it work.
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:12 PM   #8888
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Originally Posted by lip View Post
I don't have one as of yet but since many esc's also have the end user do the soldering and I've never heard of such a problem, perhaps the problem with the V3 is related to the location of the solder posts and metal around it?
I know that NOVAK went to installed wires for a similar reason. They found that the post being heated too many times was causing bad connections to the board. I think it is reasonable that they include factory soldered wires. No where in his post did he suggest that we can't solder different wire on to the ESC. I know every ESC that I have had that comes with wire soldered to the board has been resoldered at some point. Just need the right equipment. I see lots of guys with a 10$ radio shack special soldering irons and then wonder why they don't get good connections. Lately I have even seen a bunch of motors need the internal connections resoldered to the connector plate because they have been heated for too long and melted the internal connections.
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:18 PM   #8889
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None of my wires for 1/12th or WGT come straight up from the 120 1S ESC; so, I would just be unsoldering/resoldering them (2 times). And probably changing the wire in the process.

Just a thought!
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:04 AM   #8890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Hi Guys

I have notcied that some have been blowing up some esc's especially v3 what we have uncovered when repairing the esc's is very poor solderingcreating shorts like hair thin shorts from one wire to another and some with shorts to the aluminum case from the rear of the solder posts .

I know alot of people are not soldering experts so i have decided that we will do the following and that is have the wires already soldered to the esc from factory and then you can solder to the motor etc yourself .

Im thinking along the lines of the xerun product as all black wiring for the motor with A ,B,C printing on the wiring so you dont make any mistakes when soldering .The battery wires will stay the same but with the printing of plus and minus on the wire .

what do you guys think ?

regards Angelo
I think this is a great idea and will prevent damadged speedys and make installation times quicker. It takes the user end stupidity out of the whole proccess. If you go ahead with this, when will it be expected to be in stock ? Any price increase ?
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:14 AM   #8891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Yeah, I don't like the tone of blaming the customer, other ESCs manage to make it work.
I dont see this as blaming the customer .. rather taking out one possible fault area that can cause the customer grief.

I have wired up a V3 and with 12 gauge wire it can be a close fit
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:29 AM   #8892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannon View Post
I dont see this as blaming the customer .. rather taking out one possible fault area that can cause the customer grief.

I have wired up a V3 and with 12 gauge wire it can be a close fit
I haven't used 12 gauge since switching to brushless. There really doesn't seem to be a need. What motor battery combo are you using that needs this kind of wire?
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:36 AM   #8893
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It came with the ESC
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:47 AM   #8894
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Originally Posted by macdude View Post
I see lots of guys with a 10$ radio shack special soldering irons and then wonder why they don't get good connections
It's right, and wrong, because Yes better have a good soldering iron, but sometimes, for pre-soldered wires, it's better to have a $10 of 100W, than a very good of 30W

I already expreienced this one time, and haing the choice between these two, I can confirm you that the lowprice 100W helped to change wires so easily that the ESC almost didn't get a temp change, while with the high-price 30W, you could burn your finger on the ESC before the wires could be moved.
And since you have less chance to create an internal problem if the ESC stay cold, the choice is simple, I would go with any kind of 80-100W before any soldering iron without enough power, even it costs 10 times the price (for that king of use only ! ).
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:49 AM   #8895
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A good 60w iron is the way to go for virtually all soldering on rc cars these days. With the small flat tip (1/8-3/16"). Would only use a 100w iron when I was building NiMh packs in days long past.
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