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Old 04-28-2012, 12:24 AM   #8821
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Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE View Post
It gives it more initial punch if you run high mechanical timing, with slightly lower gear, say 2 teeth less on pinion, and it allows the motor to spin at a higher top rpm, which means you can add more timing boost and then stretch your boost ramp out really long therefore making the car smoother, I myself prefer to run slightly advanced above neutral, but alot of that depends on the track you run at.
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
Is there a online guide available for 930 stock to explain all the settings, mainly about timing "acc" and boost and turbo etc?

also anyone know the true mechanical timing of the xerun stock 540 sensored motors, they dont have adjustable endbell
Ok, here's my guide..

For both boost and turbo, there are three main settings for their use;
1) How much
2) How fast applied
3) When applied

Now for boost... 1) is the boost timing, 2) is the boost accel and 3) is the start RPM. 1) and 3) should be pretty self explanatory, but for the Boost Accel, it dictates how quickly the boost is applied, once the start rpm is reached, and it does this in how much RPM per step of boost timing.
As an example, boost timing is 20, start RPM is 6,000, and boost accel is 300. Using that, all the boost will have been applied by 12,000rpm (6,000+[300 x 20]=12,000).
So from that, you can that using a bigger boost accl value will result in the full boost being applied later, which makes the application smoother, and generates less heat. Adjusting the boost start and boost accl are key to getting a good esc setup, and where knowledge of what rpms are being seen on track is really helpful.
(note in the V3 esc software, 2) is now set by setting the end rpm, and you can backwards calculate the ramp rate.. [End rpm - start rpm]/boost timing = boost accel)

Now for turbo, same 3 point principle applies. 1) is the turbo timing, 2) is the turbo ramp, and 3) is the turbo delay.
Now as turbo is only activated when full throttle is reached, that's the reason for having 3), to give a slight delay when reaching full throttle (so not to unsettle the car by a big application of timing!). 1) is self explanatory, and 2) is similar to 2) for the boost, but instead of using the rpm as the rate, it uses time.. Specifically the amount of turbo applied for every tenth of a second. To find how long it will take, need to do (turbo timing/turbo ramp)x0.1 and add that to the turbo delay.
Using an example again... Say 1) is 24, 2) is 0.2 and 3) is 12. Once you hit full throttle, after 0.4s you'll have all the turbo applied ([(24/12)x0.1]+0.2).

One thing to bear in mind for the 930 software, is that turbo will not activate until all the boost has applied.

As for uses... Well, given boost is generally smoother applied than turbo, you should set the boost and gearing to work in the infield. Then use the turbo to gain extra on the straight bits.

HiH
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:34 AM   #8822
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Ok, here's my guide..

For both boost and turbo, there are three main settings for their use;
1) How much
2) How fast applied
3) When applied

Now for boost... 1) is the boost timing, 2) is the boost accel and 3) is the start RPM. 1) and 3) should be pretty self explanatory, but for the Boost Accel, it dictates how quickly the boost is applied, once the start rpm is reached, and it does this in how much RPM per step of boost timing.
As an example, boost timing is 20, start RPM is 6,000, and boost accel is 300. Using that, all the boost will have been applied by 12,000rpm (6,000+[300 x 20]=12,000).
So from that, you can that using a bigger boost accl value will result in the full boost being applied later, which makes the application smoother, and generates less heat. Adjusting the boost start and boost accl are key to getting a good esc setup, and where knowledge of what rpms are being seen on track is really helpful.
(note in the V3 esc software, 2) is now set by setting the end rpm, and you can backwards calculate the ramp rate.. [End rpm - start rpm]/boost timing = boost accel)

Now for turbo, same 3 point principle applies. 1) is the turbo timing, 2) is the turbo ramp, and 3) is the turbo delay.
Now as turbo is only activated when full throttle is reached, that's the reason for having 3), to give a slight delay when reaching full throttle (so not to unsettle the car by a big application of timing!). 1) is self explanatory, and 2) is similar to 2) for the boost, but instead of using the rpm as the rate, it uses time.. Specifically the amount of turbo applied for every tenth of a second. To find how long it will take, need to do (turbo timing/turbo ramp)x0.1 and add that to the turbo delay.
Using an example again... Say 1) is 24, 2) is 0.2 and 3) is 12. Once you hit full throttle, after 0.4s you'll have all the turbo applied ([(24/12)x0.1]+0.2).

One thing to bear in mind for the 930 software, is that turbo will not activate until all the boost has applied.

As for uses... Well, given boost is generally smoother applied than turbo, you should set the boost and gearing to work in the infield. Then use the turbo to gain extra on the straight bits.

HiH
Ed
Thanks Ed

I thought this was how it was done but i wanted to be certain
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:44 AM   #8823
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OK gents, thanks for the useful responses. Just another way to squeeze a little more out of the motor!

I'm going to have to try this on my x12. If I was to put the max timing insert in, gear down two teeth, keep the esc settings the same and work from there would that be a good place to start?
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:57 AM   #8824
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Just picked up the new v3 and hooked it up to a thunder power 21.5 boosted,at low speed throttle the motor stutters or is clogging? I have tried another new motor and sensor cable but is still doing it,any thoughts to resolve this issue would be great.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:44 PM   #8825
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Default Just Stock with 1s Lipo and booster

I wired it up last night and it all worked well.

One thing I found was that I had to disconnect the red wire lead on the esc receiver connection. Turns out the booster was powering the esc through the receiver while the esc was already receiving its own power from the battery.

Switich on booster - powers receiver and servo

Switch on esc - powers esc

I was able to upload the V3 firmware and got the updated options for brake (8 selections vs. 4). Everything runs smoothly on the bench so far. Will see how it will do on the track.

Does anyone know if the esc fan is necessary to run 1s 13.5 or 17.5? I need to conserve every bit of power since I'm running with no low voltage protection.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:09 PM   #8826
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What would be a good ballpark starting point for this track [click]. The straight is easily 50-60m in length after the sweeper which is taken flat. Xtreme Stock esc with a Nosram StockSpec (X12).
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:32 AM   #8827
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Ok i have USB link 1.64_111011, both my esc show v1.00_111207a. Is this up to date? Cuz im still not seeing any options for the boost ot tubo? Not sure whats up
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:56 PM   #8828
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I use the xerun 120a.v2 with 930stock. Can I set the parameters by using the set button?. I find it difficult if must remove and reinstall the cable receiver. Is there an easy way without having to dismantle and replace the cable?
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:26 AM   #8829
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Originally Posted by b.wihardja View Post
I use the xerun 120a.v2 with 930stock. Can I set the parameters by using the set button?. I find it difficult if must remove and reinstall the cable receiver. Is there an easy way without having to dismantle and replace the cable?
I use a servo extension cord, that way I don't actually have to plug and unplug the cord from the receiver. I just lay out the wires so the plug is easy to get to. This seems to work the best for me. As for programing with the button, I don't think you can with the 903 stock software.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:38 AM   #8830
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
I wired it up last night and it all worked well.

One thing I found was that I had to disconnect the red wire lead on the esc receiver connection. Turns out the booster was powering the esc through the receiver while the esc was already receiving its own power from the battery.

Switich on booster - powers receiver and servo

Switch on esc - powers esc

I was able to upload the V3 firmware and got the updated options for brake (8 selections vs. 4). Everything runs smoothly on the bench so far. Will see how it will do on the track.

Does anyone know if the esc fan is necessary to run 1s 13.5 or 17.5? I need to conserve every bit of power since I'm running with no low voltage protection.
No fan needed, unless you decide to run something like a 4t
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:44 AM   #8831
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Originally Posted by macdude View Post
I use a servo extension cord, that way I don't actually have to plug and unplug the cord from the receiver. I just lay out the wires so the plug is easy to get to. This seems to work the best for me. As for programing with the button, I don't think you can with the 903 stock software.
good idea, thanks
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:52 AM   #8832
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
I wired it up last night and it all worked well.

One thing I found was that I had to disconnect the red wire lead on the esc receiver connection. Turns out the booster was powering the esc through the receiver while the esc was already receiving its own power from the battery.

Switich on booster - powers receiver and servo

Switch on esc - powers esc

I was able to upload the V3 firmware and got the updated options for brake (8 selections vs. 4). Everything runs smoothly on the bench so far. Will see how it will do on the track.

Does anyone know if the esc fan is necessary to run 1s 13.5 or 17.5? I need to conserve every bit of power since I'm running with no low voltage protection.
I ran a Jusstock like that for a while. It was a little tricky to figure out, but it ran well. I had issues using the LCD box with a 1s hooked up. I ended up plugging in a 2s to make adjustments. I found the brakes a little weak, but running blinky I never try touching the brakes. I also made a short 1 inch servo extention for the esc wire. I took the red wire out of the extention, so I could leave the esc wire intact. For profile adjustments then all I did was remove the esc wire from the extention, leaving the male end of the extension plugged into the receiver.
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:31 PM   #8833
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
No fan needed, unless you decide to run something like a 4t
Thats good to know. Its in the WGT car right now. Although there's plenty of space for a fan, I want to conserve its battery power to prevent the possibility of damage to the lipo since I am running without any low voltage protection.

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Originally Posted by MC112b View Post
I ran a Jusstock like that for a while. It was a little tricky to figure out, but it ran well. I had issues using the LCD box with a 1s hooked up. I ended up plugging in a 2s to make adjustments. I found the brakes a little weak, but running blinky I never try touching the brakes. I also made a short 1 inch servo extention for the esc wire. I took the red wire out of the extention, so I could leave the esc wire intact. For profile adjustments then all I did was remove the esc wire from the extention, leaving the male end of the extension plugged into the receiver.
I found the same problem with the programmer on 1s. It seems 3.7v is not enough to power it. Totally forgot that I may need the red lead to program it again. Thanks for the tip on the servo extension.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:14 PM   #8834
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Originally Posted by macdude View Post
First install the software in the link.
2. Plug in your 2in1 program box to the USB.
3. open the the software.
4. In device menu select he program box. Select the Software Tab. This will tell you if you have the latest firmware for the box. If not update by clicking on "Upgrade" button. For good measure do it twice V1.08 is the latest for the box.
5. Now plug the ESC in to the program box. Make sure the negative lead (black) is matched to the box designation.
6. plug the battery into the ESC and turn the switch on.
7. Under device menu select ESC. The software will detect the ESC
8. Under the Software tab, you will see a list of firmware for your particular ESC. The latest mod version is V3.0_110930_MOD the latest Boosted Stock is V3.0_110930STOCK. In the drop down menu choose the version you want to update the ESC to. Then click the upgrade button. It will update the firmware. For good measure do it twice.
9. Once you have adjusted the setting to your liking, on each tab press apply. Then when you are done just switch the ESC off. And unplug.

Hope this helps. There is a great video on youtube that explains all this too.
I followed these steps I loaded the V1.08_111007 software to the programer box. But on the esc software tab V3.0_110930STOCK is not listed, all it shows It has V1.00111207a_2r Loaded and V1.00100324a_3 - V1.00_091116a_U as options to load. I loaded the V1.08_111007 software to the programer box. Ok have the right software in the pro-box but on the esc is doesnt list the V3.0_110930STOCK as an option. any ideas
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Last edited by sbrewer; 05-01-2012 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:58 PM   #8835
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I followed these steps I loaded the V1.08_111007 software to the programer box. But on the esc software tab V3.0_110930STOCK is not listed, all it shows It has V1.00111207a_2r Loaded and V1.00100324a_3 - V1.00_091116a_U as options to load. I loaded the V1.08_111007 software to the programer box. Ok have the right software in the pro-box but on the esc is doesnt list the V3.0_110930STOCK as an option. any ideas
I got my V3 software through the beta download here:
http://www.hobbywing.com/upload/soft...tup_120401.rar
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