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Old 03-12-2012, 03:01 PM   #8191
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Cobra, I need and advice and setup from you!
Next weekend, start our Regional Championship and the first race is an very huge outdoor circuit, with very high grip and open curves and a straight of 70 meters.
I'll run a 417X with 111/26-27 64 pitch gears (8-7,80 final ratio), and the xerun 120 2.1 with a Nosram Pearl Pure 4.5T octawind motor.

Wich is your recomennded software and settings for it?
As complet as you can.

Cheers and great support for hobbywing racers!!!
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:45 PM   #8192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dumper View Post
I told you this stuff was top fuel.

3 weeks ago in North Dakota, TQ and win in WGT. TQ and second in 1/12th 13.5 boosted, TQ and third in 17.5 blinky TC, Qual 2nd and finish second in 17.5 blinky 12th scale.

2 weeks ago in Colorado, 4 TQ, 4 wins in WGT, 13.5 and 17.5 12th scale, and 17.5 TC.

This past weekend at the Canadian On Road Nationals, I won WGT, 2nd in boosted 17.5 12th scale and 4th in TC.

Alot of people are taking notice.
You forgot to mention 1st through 5th for qualifying and 1st through 4th finished with Hobbywing's for WGT in North Dakota
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:28 PM   #8193
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Originally Posted by outoforder View Post
I have a ? Is the boost and turbo effected by the esc you are running? I.e. will a 120amp be better over a 60amp esc?
I'm also considering buying my 5th hobbywing esc and don't know which one of these esc would be better for my onroad 1/10 tc , running asphalt , open esc anything goes only a 10.5 motor limit, and 2 cell lipo limit in the class.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-xerun-...-1s-black.html
Or this one
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-xerun-120a-sd.html
What is the difference on these 2 escs? Any help would be appreciated.
Also does it matter if I use the led box or the advanced lcd box? Thanks again for any help.
60 amp can run down to a 5.5T no turbo 8.5t and above with turbo

The 120 amp can run down to a 3.5T with turbo

if your not going to run a 3 cell like you said but just a two cell better go for the 1s version this way if you ever decide to run a 1/12 scale pan car you will do so without a receiver pack as the 1s has built in dc-dc booster ic's

Led box you cannot program turbo settings were with the lcd you can
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:48 PM   #8194
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I've just switched from Tekin and am needing some education... I run 508, 17.5 blinky in TC (HW 120amp works very well BTW) and use some pretty big gearing (sub 3.8 FDR) ...

My question is this: I used the voltage limiter adjustment in my Tekin to help keep the motor cooler, good for 10-12* F, at an 85-90% value. It decreased the punch a small amount but the motor was cooler and more consistent as were the lap times. Does HW offer a similar function? I've played with the punch abit but have not noticed a significant decrease in temp... Would also like to know what 'DDRS' stands for...

Thanks for the help! ....

PS .. I'm not asking for gearing advice.... Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:25 PM   #8195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pchroma24 View Post
I've just switched from Tekin and am needing some education... I run 508, 17.5 blinky in TC (HW 120amp works very well BTW) and use some pretty big gearing (sub 3.8 FDR) ...

My question is this: I used the voltage limiter adjustment in my Tekin to help keep the motor cooler, good for 10-12* F, at an 85-90% value. It decreased the punch a small amount but the motor was cooler and more consistent as were the lap times. Does HW offer a similar function? I've played with the punch abit but have not noticed a significant decrease in temp... Would also like to know what 'DDRS' stands for...

Thanks for the help! ....

PS .. I'm not asking for gearing advice.... Thanks!
I switched from tekin about 4 months ago and i cant get enough of the hobbywing stuff now, i only use them in my only two cars, but i have about 4 spares and counting i buy them everytime i find a good deal on them, as if they arent already a great deal haha.

The similar function is the start mode(punch) this is valued at 1-9 1 being lowest and 9 ofcourse being the highest. Also keep in mind that between different esc's there is different gearing required, this is caused by different resistance, different throttle curves within the software ect ect ect. I personally run a 4.0 fdr in 17.5 when everyone else is at 3.5 using the same car as 90 percent of them and the same motor as all the guys i run with up top and my car is usually the fastest on in-feild and on straight! Hope this helps! -Randy
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:54 AM   #8196
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Hey Brian, who do i contact about getting one of those super nice HobbyWing t-shirts Nice runs lately!
I had them made. Send me a PM and I can get you in contact with the guy who made them.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:09 AM   #8197
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I believe I have found the problem, I turned off the overheat protection. Since I use another brand motor it may not work properly, and I always lose power with the motor being at approx. 50 degrees C (I aim to go approx. 85 degrees). I am not able to go to the track in the next few daysbut I will surely post if the problem is gone
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:19 PM   #8198
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HB wing 1S arrived today. Is there any reason to use the superstock software in blinky mode? Or can you just use the Mod software with the timing turned off. I will be testing both versions of the software this weekend and was wondering if anyone had notice much of a difference with zero timing.
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:25 PM   #8199
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you need to run the 508 software if you want blinky profile.
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:34 PM   #8200
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Originally Posted by macdude View Post
HB wing 1S arrived today. Is there any reason to use the superstock software in blinky mode? Or can you just use the Mod software with the timing turned off. I will be testing both versions of the software this weekend and was wondering if anyone had notice much of a difference with zero timing.
If you have to run in blinky race, you must use the specific "zero timing" firmware.
It's different than the stock and mod firmwares, can have same performances than these firmwares set at O for boost and turbo, but the important thing is that this firmware makes the led goes "blinky", which won't happen with stock or mod firmware, even with boost and turbo set at 0.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:02 PM   #8201
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Originally Posted by FFred View Post
If you have to run in blinky race, you must use the specific "zero timing" firmware.
It's different than the stock and mod firmwares, can have same performances than these firmwares set at O for boost and turbo, but the important thing is that this firmware makes the led goes "blinky", which won't happen with stock or mod firmware, even with boost and turbo set at 0.
Thanks. I got it going seems pretty cool that you can store a few profiles to change trackside without much messing around. I can't wait to see how well it works on the track. On a side note the sensor less transition is not as smooth as say castle. It will do it but man it makes a funny noise. I like to see what a failure looks like so I don't get surprised if it happens on the track. So removing the sensor cable has become habit when doing test runs.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:35 PM   #8202
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So............... Is the v3 out yet?
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:52 PM   #8203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE View Post
I switched from tekin about 4 months ago and i cant get enough of the hobbywing stuff now, i only use them in my only two cars, but i have about 4 spares and counting i buy them everytime i find a good deal on them, as if they arent already a great deal haha.

The similar function is the start mode(punch) this is valued at 1-9 1 being lowest and 9 ofcourse being the highest. Also keep in mind that between different esc's there is different gearing required, this is caused by different resistance, different throttle curves within the software ect ect ect. I personally run a 4.0 fdr in 17.5 when everyone else is at 3.5 using the same car as 90 percent of them and the same motor as all the guys i run with up top and my car is usually the fastest on in-feild and on straight! Hope this helps! -Randy

Confirms my thinking... Thanks for the input! ....
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:05 PM   #8204
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I'm running a HW 120A in my Sc104x4 with a Novak 5.5hv. I have to say it runs great, it barely Even gets warm. I just got back into racing after 9 year break, needless to say its a new word. I just wanted to see what boost software I should use and how it works.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:45 PM   #8205
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I was after a chart to tell what the AMTS(timing) settings are with 90205 MOD software.

can anyone point me in the right direction?
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