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Old 11-20-2011, 12:55 PM   #7006
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Originally Posted by SeanV View Post
Can someone please explain to me what I need to do to downgrade so I can make use of the 213 software.

Thx
Here is a very, very short description of what to do, but it gives what to do in a nut shell.

In 930 USB link program downgrade ESC, to an older FW version, then downgrade 2 in 1 box, then in 213 USB link, upgrade ESC to 213...
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:02 PM   #7007
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Hello,

I have a problem with my HW 120 v2.1.
I'm using it with Speed Passion comp v3 17.5motor and 930 firmware.
It was running perfect till i resoldered all the wires. Now when i apply throtle i got blinking green light, and car seems to move like it is without turbo and boost. I have disabled overheat protection as esc never gone more than 45C.

Please help.
Thanks in advance.
Please first check you sensor cable or change it for a new one for the reason of eliminating that the sensor cable as the issue thats the first step second step i have an explanation below.

Please be aware the motor overheat protection fucntion is only available for the sensored brushless motors made by Hobbywing tech but may work on other manufactured branded motors but you need to try yourself .For motors made by other manufacturers,this function may not be available or the protection point of that other manufacturerd motors doesnt match the design of the Hobbywing esc .

please also be aware Sp motors are not made by hobbywing and only the gt series esc is made by hobbywing only .The Sp motors are made by fiago company and may not have the same protection point as the hobbywing motors thus sending the esc into sensoreless mode for its own pretection and of the mixed signals sent back to the esc known as feedback .

please disable the over heat protection fucntion if this is the case .
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:08 PM   #7008
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So is a software fix for the LVC in 1S no timing mode in the works? The whole reason I bought this particular esc is to run 1S no timing.
yes, no, maybe?
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:01 PM   #7009
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Please first check you sensor cable or change it for a new one for the reason of eliminating that the sensor cable as the issue thats the first step second step i have an explanation below.

Please be aware the motor overheat protection fucntion is only available for the sensored brushless motors made by Hobbywing tech but may work on other manufactured branded motors but you need to try yourself .For motors made by other manufacturers,this function may not be available or the protection point of that other manufacturerd motors doesnt match the design of the Hobbywing esc .

please also be aware Sp motors are not made by hobbywing and only the gt series esc is made by hobbywing only .The Sp motors are made by fiago company and may not have the same protection point as the hobbywing motors thus sending the esc into sensoreless mode for its own pretection and of the mixed signals sent back to the esc known as feedback .

please disable the over heat protection fucntion if this is the case .
I tried with brand new sensor cable. Motor was never above 60C. Over heat protection is disabled.

Is it possible that i burned something in esc when i soldered wires?
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Old 11-21-2011, 03:46 PM   #7010
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I have a problem with my 150A 2000Kv combo. Its black and very smelly. Ok, not funny but I went out to do some practice laps in my D8T E and drove it for say 10 seconds and it stopped with flames coming out, to my horror! Lucky for me that the battery leads desoildered and didnt turn into a Lipo fire.

Everything was turned down as I was on clay and 10 seconds if that it was in flames. 1 week ealier 20 min final on grass, came 4th. I had to use my back up TX as my screen on my main TX went and I couldnt change cars. Won first race with the throttle set at 80%(my sons TX), next race flat battery in TX, 3rd race it wasnt as fast as normal set at 100% but still ok, I put it down to older TX. Got a new TX Binded it to it, went to practice and went up in flames.

The Motor wires were bent to keep all flat and not poking up so the body wouldnt fit on.

I was very nervous driving my buggy since then. But I ok now but would still like to know what happened. It was about 6months old and have done a few 20min finals and a 30min final as I race with nitros.
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Old 11-21-2011, 04:52 PM   #7011
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I tried with brand new sensor cable. Motor was never above 60C. Over heat protection is disabled.

Is it possible that i burned something in esc when i soldered wires?
If you soldered with an iron too hot or for too long, yes I guess it is possible, are you sure to have rewired the cables in the right order too?
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:12 PM   #7012
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yes, no, maybe?
Yes getting fixed.
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:24 PM   #7013
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I tried with brand new sensor cable. Motor was never above 60C. Over heat protection is disabled.

Is it possible that i burned something in esc when i soldered wires?
I dont think you have burned anything while soldering but maybe you might have some hairline shorts accross the wires take a very close look at the wiring .Maybe your cap board might be damaged .
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:33 PM   #7014
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Originally Posted by glenn73 View Post
I have a problem with my 150A 2000Kv combo. Its black and very smelly. Ok, not funny but I went out to do some practice laps in my D8T E and drove it for say 10 seconds and it stopped with flames coming out, to my horror! Lucky for me that the battery leads desoildered and didnt turn into a Lipo fire.

Everything was turned down as I was on clay and 10 seconds if that it was in flames. 1 week ealier 20 min final on grass, came 4th. I had to use my back up TX as my screen on my main TX went and I couldnt change cars. Won first race with the throttle set at 80%(my sons TX), next race flat battery in TX, 3rd race it wasnt as fast as normal set at 100% but still ok, I put it down to older TX. Got a new TX Binded it to it, went to practice and went up in flames.

The Motor wires were bent to keep all flat and not poking up so the body wouldnt fit on.

I was very nervous driving my buggy since then. But I ok now but would still like to know what happened. It was about 6months old and have done a few 20min finals and a 30min final as I race with nitros.
Ok not normal but your tx wouldnt have anything to do with it thats for sure .

To go up in flames it seems to me as a major short and that could be caused by your battery or your caps being faulty .Did your motor seize up ? as for the battery wires to desolder and the esc to go up in flames that is a massive current draw caused by a major short .How many cell battery pack did you run etc please let me know
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:56 PM   #7015
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Here is a very, very short description of what to do, but it gives what to do in a nut shell.

In 930 USB link program downgrade ESC, to an older FW version, then downgrade 2 in 1 box, then in 213 USB link, upgrade ESC to 213...
Thx but it doesn't work.

I currently have V3.0_110930STOCK installed on my ESC and when I try to downgrade it to either.....

V3.0_110119STOCK or V3.0_110211STOCK or the V3.0_110213STOCK, it keeps telling me .... see below

Is it possible that once you have installed 930, u are screwed and can't go back to previous versions?
(Cobra, can you please check with Michal if that is the case, and how we can downgrade to previous versions?)

Thx

Edit: I also tried to download the no timing software on my Xerun, but I get the same error.
Attached Thumbnails
NEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE-untitled-1.jpg  
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:12 AM   #7016
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Thx but it doesn't work.
Downgrade the ESC to a V2.0 firmware, any, it doesn't matter, but not a V3.0, then downgrade the 2 in 1 box to 119, then close the V1.64 USB link.
Start the V1.63 USB link with 213 in it, and upgrade your ESC.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:18 AM   #7017
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Originally Posted by SeanV View Post
Thx but it doesn't work.

I currently have V3.0_110930STOCK installed on my ESC and when I try to downgrade it to either.....

V3.0_110119STOCK or V3.0_110211STOCK or the V3.0_110213STOCK, it keeps telling me .... see below
Another question.
Do you have all those version available in the V1.64 USB link?
I don't think so.
211 is replaced by 930.
Or did you make a mess on your PC?...

After downgrading the ESC to a V2.0 firmware, You must switch back to USB link V1.63, in order to upgrade to 213.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:57 AM   #7018
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Ok not normal but your tx wouldnt have anything to do with it thats for sure .

To go up in flames it seems to me as a major short and that could be caused by your battery or your caps being faulty .Did your motor seize up ? as for the battery wires to desolder and the esc to go up in flames that is a massive current draw caused by a major short .How many cell battery pack did you run etc please let me know
also if anything had changed, as far as settings, you may want to keep an eye on your lipo cut off. if it were set to Auto, and it drops a cell, it cant work out what type of battery it is, or if one pack went bad, and other is ok. antoher thing to watch, if you use 5S, you need to set the lipo manually. i melted my speedy to a blob like this before. it can only work out 4 or 6S nothing inbetween. so it fried with big flames.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:00 AM   #7019
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Ok not normal but your tx wouldnt have anything to do with it thats for sure .

To go up in flames it seems to me as a major short and that could be caused by your battery or your caps being faulty .Did your motor seize up ? as for the battery wires to desolder and the esc to go up in flames that is a massive current draw caused by a major short .How many cell battery pack did you run etc please let me know
IP 4s 5400, motor is not seized. I will try and post some pics later.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:06 AM   #7020
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No it was a maxamps 4s 5200
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