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Old 10-31-2011, 09:42 AM   #6841
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Hi,
I run Mod motors mainly, but made some test on 10.5 unboosted and boosted, and it makes me think also that you have to take care of how the amount of timing is added, mainly when it is added.
Too much timing in the start and the car have less acceleration than without boost (or boost starting later) and temp is higher. It gives you an exponential acceleration, but because of a lack of torque.
Same thing if you make it start at a standard point, but make it used quickly (lower value of boost acc), it can make the car slower in acceleration.

Makes sense since adding fix timing increases speed, but decreases torque. Now, with variable timing, if the motor doens't have enough speed before adding timing, it's like overgearing, and here comes the heat.


HW products, and the ones they make for SP and Orion have a max Boost Start of 15000 RPM, which could be not high enough for Mod, and maybe for 10.5 in some cases.
I think they made lots of tests, but I would like to be able to make some tests with more choice on the Boost Start RPM.

Last year I ran 10.5 un-boosted with the boosted 10.5 boys and did not find the boosted to be that much faster. I ran min timing on a SP V2 10.5 which is about 15 degrees and I was only slower down the straight and then only at the end of the straight. But I was fast in the infield. I am not the best driver and I found the smoothness of the un-boosted to suit my driving style. I ended up placing 2nd or 3rd most of the time. The only time I got 1st was due to the "fast" guy breaking.

Now this year going to a HW 120A 1s with timing I am going to start really mild on the timing and no boost. Our track is very technical and there are a few 180's
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Old 10-31-2011, 03:25 PM   #6842
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Last year I ran 10.5 un-boosted with the boosted 10.5 boys and did not find the boosted to be that much faster. I ran min timing on a SP V2 10.5 which is about 15 degrees and I was only slower down the straight and then only at the end of the straight. But I was fast in the infield. I am not the best driver and I found the smoothness of the un-boosted to suit my driving style. I ended up placing 2nd or 3rd most of the time. The only time I got 1st was due to the "fast" guy breaking.

Now this year going to a HW 120A 1s with timing I am going to start really mild on the timing and no boost. Our track is very technical and there are a few 180's

Depends on the motors you are running. Running 2S 10.5 PanCar there was as you say, almost no difference, but when running 1S 17.5 I gained 1.2 seconds per lap (12-13 sec laps) with running boost.

With high powered cars, traction becomes an issue, and the extra power doesnt always translate into faster lap times, where as low power motors (high turn), hooking up the car is not an issue, and every little bit of power can be used you will see a faster lap time.


Cheers,
Shawn.
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:21 PM   #6843
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Oh yea and our track is pretty small and tight and we are running 1/12th pan car with 1cell lipo
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Old 11-01-2011, 03:04 PM   #6844
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I'm using a 21.5 in the F1 Class at Stafford and Ardent , my current set up and the best so far is

42mm /rev , 22 boost, 15 turbo, 0.1 sec delay, 5k start, 350 acc

Temp of 55/60c , Motor Team Powers Timing point 2 = 24 degrees

KV = 1800RPM

I found that if you had a lower start at 2or3k the motor felt like it was cogging. this was born out by excessive heat build up in the motor . I think you have to let this wind of motor 'breath' before you load any timing on it

ratio 75/18 = 4.16/1
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Old 11-02-2011, 03:53 PM   #6845
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Hi guys
Just wondering if sensor wire will fail on sensored mode is that kills the speedo or is it switch to sensorless mode???
P.s xtreme stock model...
Cheers
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:16 PM   #6846
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sensor less mode yo..
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:33 PM   #6847
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Hi guys
Just wondering if sensor wire will fail on sensored mode is that kills the speedo or is it switch to sensorless mode???
P.s xtreme stock model...
Cheers
Yup, will just drop into sensorless so you can finish the race (albeit much slower! )
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Old 11-03-2011, 04:40 PM   #6848
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Default recommendation for 1/12 pan car

Hello,

do somebody have some recommendation which HW software fitīs best for 1/12 pan car (with 1S lipo, 4T octawind)?
I tried new 110930 MOD but it seems do be a little bit too smooth.(settings are not maximum)
Do I have to change to 110930_stock...?

best greetings from Vienna
Harald
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:19 PM   #6849
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who needs a smaller footprint?
Attached Thumbnails
NEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE-417anov11.jpg  
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:41 AM   #6850
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who needs a smaller footprint?
Is that the V3 then? What is the motor?
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Old 11-04-2011, 03:20 AM   #6851
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Originally Posted by XRAY_Blade View Post
Hello,

do somebody have some recommendation which HW software fitīs best for 1/12 pan car (with 1S lipo, 4T octawind)?
I tried new 110930 MOD but it seems do be a little bit too smooth.(settings are not maximum)
Do I have to change to 110930_stock...?

best greetings from Vienna
Harald
Why don't you try it and go easy on the boost, and maybe even no turbo.
And if you could post your findings here, I can copy them for next Years Worlds I will be running.
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:44 AM   #6852
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Is that the V3 then? What is the motor?
When is it out?
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:53 AM   #6853
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Is that the V3 then? What is the motor?
I don't think so, I still see a seperate switch....
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Old 11-04-2011, 05:50 AM   #6854
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Not the v3 the sensor port is under were the motor wires are and not positioned at the front of the esc.
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:16 AM   #6855
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Not the v3 the sensor port is under were the motor wires are and not positioned at the front of the esc.
Quite, it's just a v2.1 120a... Just showing despite the big footprint you can get everything squeezed in
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