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Old 09-18-2011, 04:48 AM   #6331
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COBRA,

credits to you. cheers
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Old 09-18-2011, 04:51 AM   #6332
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The copies relate to only the ezrun series but we have found a xerun 120 amp copyin taiwan but other than that nothig else .The 1s is safe.
Thanks Cobra
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Old 09-18-2011, 04:59 AM   #6333
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Thanks guys, I thought I remembered it did work, but forgot what limited it, newer software will be interesting if it stops some of that, in the mean time I'll have to try on what I'm working with and see (a friends SP).
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:02 AM   #6334
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I've been running the v2.1 120A esc with a Novak ballistic 17.5 for about 8 months now. It's been a great setup which has consistently kept up with the best of the rest.

However lately I've had problems where part way through a race the speedy drops into what feels like non boosted mode. Often but not always turning the switch off and on again solves problem. In some cases no amount of on/off switching will fix it. I tried changing the sensor wire but it made no difference so I swapped to a D3 motor and the problem went away. Today I bolted in a brand new Novak and it worked for a run or two before the problem returned again. The speedy had a constant frequency flashing green light when the car is in neutral.. Any idea what this means?

One of the guys at the track suggested running less end bell timing which seemed to help (I ran 25 deg instead of the default 30 deg on the novak). Although I'm not sure if it was the timing or the reduced tension on the end bell screws which helped more, but the problem didn't return for the rest of the day

Has anyone else experienced this problem before?
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Old 09-18-2011, 06:00 AM   #6335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kermit View Post
I've been running the v2.1 120A esc with a Novak ballistic 17.5 for about 8 months now. It's been a great setup which has consistently kept up with the best of the rest.

However lately I've had problems where part way through a race the speedy drops into what feels like non boosted mode. Often but not always turning the switch off and on again solves problem. In some cases no amount of on/off switching will fix it. I tried changing the sensor wire but it made no difference so I swapped to a D3 motor and the problem went away. Today I bolted in a brand new Novak and it worked for a run or two before the problem returned again. The speedy had a constant frequency flashing green light when the car is in neutral.. Any idea what this means?

One of the guys at the track suggested running less end bell timing which seemed to help (I ran 25 deg instead of the default 30 deg on the novak). Although I'm not sure if it was the timing or the reduced tension on the end bell screws which helped more, but the problem didn't return for the rest of the day

Has anyone else experienced this problem before?
It's the signal to the sensor board of the motor which is intermitant ,im 100% sure your problem was the tension on the end bell screws thus causing the sensor to move from the rotor causing inconsistant signals back to the esc and not your end bell timing increase.
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Old 09-18-2011, 07:00 AM   #6336
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Hi All,

Thought I'd post my settings from the Hobbywing Cup this weekend.
It wasn't a very successful event for me (C final), although that was more down more to other problems than car speed. Had some very favourable comments about the speed I had, and the best lap times were only a few tenths off the fastest overall

Anyway, settings;

Running Mode: 1 - Forward/Brake
Drag Brake: 10%
Voltage Protection: 3.2v
DDRS: Level 1
Brake Force: 75%
Reverse Force: 25%
Initial Brake: Drag Brake
Neutral Range: 6%
Boost Timing: 20 steps
Turbo Sloop: 12 steps/0.1s
Overheat Protection: On
Turbo Timing: 17 Steps
Boost Start: 10000rpm
Turbo Delay: 0.3s
Timing ACC: 100rpm/Step
FDR: 8.15

Oh yeah, motor is a Tianhao UFO 4.5t.....

So yes, using a fair amount of boost and turbo with an already very powerful motor.... whats interesting though, it is still smooth, and doesn't run hot either (motor temp around 60C after 8mins)

IMO, Key points to pay attention to with when running such settings is the FDR (obviously), DDRS (makes the throttle much smoother, and massively reduces heat build up), and the boost ACC figure (again smoothness, and interestingly, battery capacity).

If your running mod, it's certainly worth trying these sort of settings out... just pay close attention to motor and ESC temp. Certainly keep the overheat protection on as well, I had an issue with the ESC fan breaking, and thankfully the esc saved itself

It's pretty impressive it has to be said... mod is soo much fun

Ed
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:07 AM   #6337
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interesting that you put the ACC so low? With such a low ACC it is smoother then a higher ACC? I thought it would create too much heat, setting it that low but i gues not.

What size track/straight are you running on? Were you using a fan/heatsink on the motor?
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:34 AM   #6338
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my mod setting
motor thunder power 4,5t
fdr:7.9

DDRS: Level 3
Boost Timing: 30
Turbo Sloop: 12 steps/0.1s
Overheat Protection: On
Turbo Timing: 34
Boost Start: 8000rpm
Turbo Delay: 0.4s
Timing ACC: 600rpm/Step

my temps whit this setting motor: 70C esc: 45C


Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Hi All,

Thought I'd post my settings from the Hobbywing Cup this weekend.
It wasn't a very successful event for me (C final), although that was more down more to other problems than car speed. Had some very favourable comments about the speed I had, and the best lap times were only a few tenths off the fastest overall

Anyway, settings;

Running Mode: 1 - Forward/Brake
Drag Brake: 10%
Voltage Protection: 3.2v
DDRS: Level 1
Brake Force: 75%
Reverse Force: 25%
Initial Brake: Drag Brake
Neutral Range: 6%
Boost Timing: 20 steps
Turbo Sloop: 12 steps/0.1s
Overheat Protection: On
Turbo Timing: 17 Steps
Boost Start: 10000rpm
Turbo Delay: 0.3s
Timing ACC: 100rpm/Step
FDR: 8.15

Oh yeah, motor is a Tianhao UFO 4.5t.....

So yes, using a fair amount of boost and turbo with an already very powerful motor.... whats interesting though, it is still smooth, and doesn't run hot either (motor temp around 60C after 8mins)

IMO, Key points to pay attention to with when running such settings is the FDR (obviously), DDRS (makes the throttle much smoother, and massively reduces heat build up), and the boost ACC figure (again smoothness, and interestingly, battery capacity).

If your running mod, it's certainly worth trying these sort of settings out... just pay close attention to motor and ESC temp. Certainly keep the overheat protection on as well, I had an issue with the ESC fan breaking, and thankfully the esc saved itself

It's pretty impressive it has to be said... mod is soo much fun

Ed
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Old 09-18-2011, 03:40 PM   #6339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
It's the signal to the sensor board of the motor which is intermitant ,im 100% sure your problem was the tension on the end bell screws thus causing the sensor to move from the rotor causing inconsistant signals back to the esc and not your end bell timing increase.
Thanks Angelo.. Is that what the flashing green light means?
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Old 09-18-2011, 06:20 PM   #6340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kermit View Post
Thanks Angelo.. Is that what the flashing green light means?
Yes it means a low signal .so when the esc is not receiving a strong enough or a very distorted signal from the sensor board of the motor the esc cannot process the information correctly and sensors a problem so it will go from sensored mode to sensorless so to protect the esc and the motor from being damaged thus cutting all the turbo and the boost settings to nearly zero and the only functions that will operate are the basics not the advanced .As you turn the unit on and off it resets back to normal but then you have the chance of an error being detected again and thus a shutdown again .
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:23 PM   #6341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
interesting that you put the ACC so low? With such a low ACC it is smoother then a higher ACC? I thought it would create too much heat, setting it that low but i gues not.

What size track/straight are you running on? Were you using a fan/heatsink on the motor?
Suprisingly, yes... it's still punchy sure, but even at 50ACC when the traction was up the car was very controllable. Obviously, you can't mash the throttle hard regardless, but still gives good control, IMO.

What really keeps the heat down is the DDRS value at 1. As I said before, every time I've had problems with heat dropping this values really helps to bring temps down, and increasing other settings to compensate doesn't result in as much heat going back in. Thats how I can run such a low ACC value..
I did try running it at 2, and didn't like it at all, plus the esc got too hot..

HiH
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:37 PM   #6342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kermit View Post
I've been running the v2.1 120A esc with a Novak ballistic 17.5 for about 8 months now. It's been a great setup which has consistently kept up with the best of the rest.

However lately I've had problems where part way through a race the speedy drops into what feels like non boosted mode. Often but not always turning the switch off and on again solves problem. In some cases no amount of on/off switching will fix it. I tried changing the sensor wire but it made no difference so I swapped to a D3 motor and the problem went away. Today I bolted in a brand new Novak and it worked for a run or two before the problem returned again. The speedy had a constant frequency flashing green light when the car is in neutral.. Any idea what this means?

One of the guys at the track suggested running less end bell timing which seemed to help (I ran 25 deg instead of the default 30 deg on the novak). Although I'm not sure if it was the timing or the reduced tension on the end bell screws which helped more, but the problem didn't return for the rest of the day

Has anyone else experienced this problem before?
Hi, would you mind posting your setting please.
I am using a similar combination and still struggling to find a good setup for the ESC/Motor comno.
Atm I am getting blasted down the straight by the Tekin/X12 guys.

Thx
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:36 PM   #6343
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Hi guys

Just some info about lipo's that alot of you will find interesting and a good read on how to handle your lipo's
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:58 AM   #6344
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I played with the following settings on the weekend and set just as fast a time as with a traditional boost/turbo set up. My car was struggling as it was much faster and will yield even better lap times when i set it up more. I feel with the speedy set up this way it can be even faster especially in the last minutes when turbo seems to drop off.

17.5 D3 1 tick timing on can
FDR 5.1
DRRS 3
Boost 60
Start rpm 6000
timing acc 200
Turbo 0
slope 24
delay 0

Im going to change fdr to 5.3 and bump up the timing acc to 300 to see if that gives it the same legs but a touch more rip.

My normal set up is as follows

17.5 D3 1 tick timing on can
FDR 5.8
DRRS 3
Boost 40
Start rpm 4000
timing acc 200
Turbo 20
slope 18
delay 0.1

This is a good starting set up for a large track running 17.5 boosted and these settings are used by most HW users at our club.
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Old 09-19-2011, 03:15 AM   #6345
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Anyone got a realy good setup using a d3 13.5 ?
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