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Old 09-06-2011, 04:28 AM   #6166
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hi barry , can u email me ur final setup for colchester , wudnt mind trying it with a d3 21.5 motor.
Mark don't do it!! I tried the D3 21.5 in the lads car at the weekend and it went bang again after 2 runs. Trying to get them as fast as a Corally just can't happen thats the second one this year, and it was running in the 75 degree range.

As for settings I will only even run the Graupner (Not GM) motor on the same settings as a Corally it is such a unique motor that setting can't be used in the same way as you do in 13.5

I will update my website later this week with my HW set up from Colchester for both the Corally and the D3 before it went bang! just remember to temp it is the golden rule!!

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Old 09-06-2011, 04:58 AM   #6167
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Hi You will never get it as quick as the Graupners or Corally due to the difference in design of the motors however I don't think you are far off the mark, you may want to increase your start RPM up to 5000-6000 could possible lower your ACC to make it punchier but what the temps I run my hobbywing motor on 150

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Cheers, I'll give it a go
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:07 AM   #6168
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Defcone, Seeing as your in a helpful mood have you got a starting set up for 17.5 boosted at Whalan??? We are expecting to go through a few motor's with that back straight...
Don't tell em anything Keefy!!!
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:39 AM   #6169
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All very good ideas here but it was explain than 64 is the maximum reached, a little like a peak, after it falls down.
Oh yes...coming to this point...I must apologise in advance if I am digging up ancient topics again but will Cobra or someone explain to me this maximum of 64 steps which in effect is equivalent to around 30 odd degrees of true timing?

I understand that a MAXIMUM cap was meant to prevent overtiming the motors but if that's the case why are the Tekins designed to advance up to almost 80 degrees of timing?

Also all motors have different built in timings so how does this come into play? The XERUNs in particular have fixed endbells so they are in a sense a little more particular about getting the exact right settings on the esc.

Don't get me wrong...I am not trying to be greedy or difficult...I mean if the mechanical limit to how much timing advance each motor can take is just 64 steps then I will of course accept this reasoning.

Just trying to improve my knowledge of motors. Thanks.
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:59 AM   #6170
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or someone explain to me this maximum of 64 steps which in effect is equivalent to around 30 odd degrees of true timing?
tell me, with Tekin, aren't there 80 steps also 30 odd degrees of true timing?
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:12 AM   #6171
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tell me, with Tekin, aren't there 80 steps also 30 odd degrees of true timing?
I don't know. That's why i am asking. Haha. So is Tekin's 80 'steps' equal to 30 plus degrees of true timing?

In this case how will we know if we are overtiming a motor even after we know the built in timing of the motor (since the values in the ESCs are not true degrees).
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:52 AM   #6172
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You'll know your overtiming as the motor will stutter and won't work...

Simply put, 60 of real timing is about the limit any motor will sustain. End of.
If anyone states their putting 80 in they are talking crap, as the motor would be going backwards...

Don't believe me? Take an old brushed motor that you can adjust timing on, and whilst running it on a few volts, rotate the endbell and see what happens when you get to 90. The motor will start to stutter and become effectively confused as to it's position.

The same thing happens in brushless motors when running high motor timing advance coupled with high esc timing levels. The sensors will struggle to find the correct position of the rotor, making it stutter, or in the worse case, go backwards! Oh, and all that adds heat!

As most motors tend to need a bit of advance to run smoothly, (Around 20-30 for most motors, although I believe the X12's have nearer 40 built in), adding more than 30 of added timing brings them into the realms of diminishing returns... eventually to the point of just adding heat for less power.

Having said that, I haven't got into the fact that the timing naturally retards as you rev up a motor though, so adding timing does help...and why boosted profiles are more efficent than blinky. But, at the end of the day it's all a balancing act for best performance.

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Old 09-06-2011, 10:04 AM   #6173
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So does it follow that if your motor has 30degrees then there is no point in adding more than another 25 to 30 degrees of timing on the esc and thats why 518 runs better than 211 with all its timing added?
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:11 AM   #6174
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
You'll know your overtiming as the motor will stutter and won't work...

Simply put, 60 of real timing is about the limit any motor will sustain. End of.
If anyone states their putting 80 in they are talking crap, as the motor would be going backwards...

Don't believe me? Take an old brushed motor that you can adjust timing on, and whilst running it on a few volts, rotate the endbell and see what happens when you get to 90. The motor will start to stutter and become effectively confused as to it's position.

The same thing happens in brushless motors when running high motor timing advance coupled with high esc timing levels. The sensors will struggle to find the correct position of the rotor, making it stutter, or in the worse case, go backwards! Oh, and all that adds heat!

As most motors tend to need a bit of advance to run smoothly, (Around 20-30 for most motors, although I believe the X12's have nearer 40 built in), adding more than 30 of added timing brings them into the realms of diminishing returns... eventually to the point of just adding heat for less power.

Having said that, I haven't got into the fact that the timing naturally retards as you rev up a motor though, so adding timing does help...and why boosted profiles are more efficent than blinky. But, at the end of the day it's all a balancing act for best performance.

HiH
Ed
This was seriously an enlightenment. Thanks mate.
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:13 AM   #6175
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Where to send the ESC for repair / replacement etc ? as my esc devloped a fault... im in UK..
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:13 AM   #6176
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Been off racing for past three months..
Need help setting my Xtreme stock esc with New 11.5R hobbywing Sensored Blue motor.. (used on Xray T3)

What firmware should i used and what firmware setting for use on technical short track layout? also what FDR?

Thanks
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:28 AM   #6177
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What are you racing on, carpet or tarmac?
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:02 PM   #6178
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tarmac (asphalt)
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:09 PM   #6179
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Originally Posted by FunkyDunky View Post
Mark don't do it!! I tried the D3 21.5 in the lads car at the weekend and it went bang again after 2 runs. Trying to get them as fast as a Corally just can't happen thats the second one this year, and it was running in the 75 degree range.

As for settings I will only even run the Graupner (Not GM) motor on the same settings as a Corally it is such a unique motor that setting can't be used in the same way as you do in 13.5

I will update my website later this week with my HW set up from Colchester for both the Corally and the D3 before it went bang! just remember to temp it is the golden rule!!

my dads used the d3 already and its pig slow , do u no how much timing is on the motor as kit?

the week after the stcc i ran my dads car with (21.5) both hw and corraly motors and i got within a second from the time set on the stcc meeting using the corraly but with the h/w i was bout 5 seconds slower and the motor got hot 105c i think.
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Old 09-06-2011, 01:07 PM   #6180
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tarmac (asphalt)
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