4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
06-20-2010, 05:14 AM
#556
a 60a v2 for less than £48.00 delivered. flea bay item number 390210549133 unreal. wonder how much cheaper they will be when the new speedo comes out..................
06-20-2010, 11:24 AM
#557
Yeah I noticed a couple of ebay sellers suddenly put up some old 60A V2 versions for about $80AU just before the weekend, trying to move some units before the new Stock comes out this week, so not a bad deal if you can still live with the larger size older unit.
Me, I want one of the new small ones in black, although I'm hoping they do a few more colours, red to match the Top I'm buying would be nice.
Me, I want one of the new small ones in black, although I'm hoping they do a few more colours, red to match the Top I'm buying would be nice.
06-20-2010, 11:37 AM
#558
Tech Master
so whats the estimated price going to be for the new esc? I hope it won't shoot up past $120 just because it's "new". The major selling point of the HW was that you could buy two of them for the price of one RS. The closer the price is to the RS, the further away people will look to the HW. Tekin has excellent CS, not so sure about the HW(is there a US based repair center now?). Last time I had problems with an EZrun system, it took weeks before getting back the esc, but when my RS died, I got a new one within a week. Well, I guess that's why HW put a price limiter to prevent gouging?
06-22-2010, 11:04 AM
#560
Has anyone used the new software with a 17.5. I have been playing around with the SP version for a bit and am finding it hard to get working.
I've installed this new version and testing it on the bench its sounds dead with no apparent rip that everyone seems to be raving about
I feel I have done some drastically wrong with the installation, any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
I've installed this new version and testing it on the bench its sounds dead with no apparent rip that everyone seems to be raving about
I feel I have done some drastically wrong with the installation, any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
06-22-2010, 01:03 PM
#561
06-22-2010, 03:21 PM
#563
Hi
Until there is a permanent supplier in the usa i will handle it.send me an email
[email protected] and i will sort you out .
Until there is a permanent supplier in the usa i will handle it.send me an email
[email protected] and i will sort you out .
06-22-2010, 06:02 PM
#564
Hi
Until there is a permanent supplier in the usa i will handle it.send me an email
[email protected] and i will sort you out .
Until there is a permanent supplier in the usa i will handle it.send me an email
[email protected] and i will sort you out .
06-23-2010, 01:19 AM
#565
Actually no they will go all around the world at the same time as we are looking for a distributor in the usa so until the usa is sorted they will go direct to usa customers .
I have two guys running the samples now brad v and gav from Aus.
06-23-2010, 06:34 AM
#566
And they are damn fine!
06-24-2010, 06:10 AM
#567
Can I be a tester 2 
love the products, also I have a question the Hobbywing motors are currently in the works to be ROAR approved how is all of that going and how do they compare to the LRP X12 and TEKIN branded motors I mainly run stock 17.5 and am interested in how these STOCK up 
love the products, also I have a question the Hobbywing motors are currently in the works to be ROAR approved how is all of that going and how do they compare to the LRP X12 and TEKIN branded motors I mainly run stock 17.5 and am interested in how these STOCK up
06-24-2010, 08:26 AM
#568
Bluetooth Hobbywing ESC.
To Hobbywing Technical services / Designers.
I recently purchased from eBay(Hong Kong) for £1 including shipping a micro USB Bluetooth adapter, this thing is so tiny one can only assume that the ‘working parts’ of it are minutely small.
I currently own an Android ‘Smartphone’ which has the ability to download apps a little like the iPhone.
We currently have laptops and USB programming cards to update own HOBBYWING ESC’s.
As an emerging force in the RC industry the inclusion of a Bluetooth link to the ESC would make this product unique in the industry, and a yearly subscription of $20 for the app would cover the loss of income from the sale of USB programming cards and also allow funding for software improvements.
This would allow racers to attend races with their iPhone or Android phone and to make adjustments to their ESC’s without the need to carry a bulky or expensive Laptop around with them.
There are many app designers on the web who would be more than capable of converting the USB link software to a Bluetooth linkage at minimal cost to HOBBYWING.
I believe that this would place HOBBYWING at the forefront of ESC technology and would increase sales exponentially, also there could be a ‘small’ price differential for the Bluetooth enabled ESC’s to cover the minimal costs involved in the addition of the relevant chips etc.
If you feel that this idea has some merit, feel free to email me and I will quite happily waive my ‘intellectual property’ rights for a minimal remuneration.
Keep up the fine work HOBBYWING I believe that we have the opposition on the ropes now and as a great technology company HOBBYWING deserves to be at the forefront of development in our field and I truly believe that this BLUETOOTH idea deserves closer attention and merits further research.
Cherry x
I recently purchased from eBay(Hong Kong) for £1 including shipping a micro USB Bluetooth adapter, this thing is so tiny one can only assume that the ‘working parts’ of it are minutely small.
I currently own an Android ‘Smartphone’ which has the ability to download apps a little like the iPhone.
We currently have laptops and USB programming cards to update own HOBBYWING ESC’s.
As an emerging force in the RC industry the inclusion of a Bluetooth link to the ESC would make this product unique in the industry, and a yearly subscription of $20 for the app would cover the loss of income from the sale of USB programming cards and also allow funding for software improvements.
This would allow racers to attend races with their iPhone or Android phone and to make adjustments to their ESC’s without the need to carry a bulky or expensive Laptop around with them.
There are many app designers on the web who would be more than capable of converting the USB link software to a Bluetooth linkage at minimal cost to HOBBYWING.
I believe that this would place HOBBYWING at the forefront of ESC technology and would increase sales exponentially, also there could be a ‘small’ price differential for the Bluetooth enabled ESC’s to cover the minimal costs involved in the addition of the relevant chips etc.
If you feel that this idea has some merit, feel free to email me and I will quite happily waive my ‘intellectual property’ rights for a minimal remuneration.
Keep up the fine work HOBBYWING I believe that we have the opposition on the ropes now and as a great technology company HOBBYWING deserves to be at the forefront of development in our field and I truly believe that this BLUETOOTH idea deserves closer attention and merits further research.
Cherry x
06-25-2010, 12:01 AM
#569
mod528 on the bike! What fun!
Yesterday afternoon I tested my Xerun 60A with a Trinity Pulse 6.5T on my KP09 r/c motorcycle!
I usually run the bike with a Nosram 13.5T, but wanted to see how it would go with a faster motor!
So, I just soldered the 6.5T, installed the Mod528 and ran it as it was. I only changed the LVC to 3.2V/cell and lowered the FDR from 6.94 to 8.48...
The batteries I ran were Turnigy 3000/40C and 3600/30C. They all easily gave me two 10-minutes sessions on one charge, with a 10-15 minutes in between sessions, and they charged to 2700-2750mah afterwards.
The bike was a LOT faster, and for the first time I could realize when the turbo function kicked in. And it did so very visibly! For example, at the 2/3rds of the main straight, with the bike travelling at almost top speed, having pushed the throttle stick to full gradually at around the middle of the straight, you could see the front wheel trying to go off the ground!!! And the straight is quite long at 55m!!!
If I tried to accelerate more quickly at the start of the main straight, it would wheelie abruptly, and it would it so quickly that it ended in a tumble... You just can't catch it!
On corner exits it would either slide progressively (used PMT200 rear tire) or slide AND try to wheelie!
Needless to say I was using the throttle sparingly, not punching it like I used to with the 13.5T... but even so I couldn't manage not to tumble the bike end-over-end a few times! It was so much fun! And so fast!
Also, I managed to get myself lower than 30sec per lap! My old FF3 radio has a timer onboard, which I set to 10 minutes. Every minute it will beep, until the 9.30 minute when it will beep 5 times, then at 10 minutes it will beep a lot of times.
So, I roughly know that if I can do more than two laps in every radio minute, I'm good! Well, with the 13.5T I started doing 1.5 laps per minute, then as I was practising I managed to do almost constant 30-sec laps, but never really lower than that. Yesterday, I was doing laps comparable to the 17.5T RCGT cars, which usually circle at 23 (for the fast guys!) to 28sec per lap... I could do two full laps, proceed to the next 3-4 corners and then there was the Beep!
However... a mod motor definitely needs a front brake added to the bike, because braking with only the rear wheel took its toll, also, because it would slide all over the place when braking, even lightly, not to mention harder accelleration wear! I ended up lowering the ATL to 30%, just to get rid of the rear wheel locking and hopping when braking! (The stock class rules don't allow a mechanical front brake and I didn't bother to install and setup a front brake just for a few runs).
I even ran the last 10-minute session in a light drizzle, first with the worn slick tire, then with a similar treaded PMT200 "cut thread" tire... but the slip and sliding was too much! Not to mention I didn't waterproof anything, so I was in danger of frying something, so I called it a day when the rain started falling steadily!
Later in the evening, back home, the 13.5T found its way again in the bike, complete with the stock program and more practising for the World Champs will commence in the coming days!
I usually run the bike with a Nosram 13.5T, but wanted to see how it would go with a faster motor!
So, I just soldered the 6.5T, installed the Mod528 and ran it as it was. I only changed the LVC to 3.2V/cell and lowered the FDR from 6.94 to 8.48...
The batteries I ran were Turnigy 3000/40C and 3600/30C. They all easily gave me two 10-minutes sessions on one charge, with a 10-15 minutes in between sessions, and they charged to 2700-2750mah afterwards.
The bike was a LOT faster, and for the first time I could realize when the turbo function kicked in. And it did so very visibly! For example, at the 2/3rds of the main straight, with the bike travelling at almost top speed, having pushed the throttle stick to full gradually at around the middle of the straight, you could see the front wheel trying to go off the ground!!! And the straight is quite long at 55m!!!
If I tried to accelerate more quickly at the start of the main straight, it would wheelie abruptly, and it would it so quickly that it ended in a tumble... You just can't catch it!
On corner exits it would either slide progressively (used PMT200 rear tire) or slide AND try to wheelie!
Needless to say I was using the throttle sparingly, not punching it like I used to with the 13.5T... but even so I couldn't manage not to tumble the bike end-over-end a few times! It was so much fun! And so fast!
Also, I managed to get myself lower than 30sec per lap! My old FF3 radio has a timer onboard, which I set to 10 minutes. Every minute it will beep, until the 9.30 minute when it will beep 5 times, then at 10 minutes it will beep a lot of times.
So, I roughly know that if I can do more than two laps in every radio minute, I'm good! Well, with the 13.5T I started doing 1.5 laps per minute, then as I was practising I managed to do almost constant 30-sec laps, but never really lower than that. Yesterday, I was doing laps comparable to the 17.5T RCGT cars, which usually circle at 23 (for the fast guys!) to 28sec per lap... I could do two full laps, proceed to the next 3-4 corners and then there was the Beep!
However... a mod motor definitely needs a front brake added to the bike, because braking with only the rear wheel took its toll, also, because it would slide all over the place when braking, even lightly, not to mention harder accelleration wear! I ended up lowering the ATL to 30%, just to get rid of the rear wheel locking and hopping when braking! (The stock class rules don't allow a mechanical front brake and I didn't bother to install and setup a front brake just for a few runs).
I even ran the last 10-minute session in a light drizzle, first with the worn slick tire, then with a similar treaded PMT200 "cut thread" tire... but the slip and sliding was too much! Not to mention I didn't waterproof anything, so I was in danger of frying something, so I called it a day when the rain started falling steadily!
Later in the evening, back home, the 13.5T found its way again in the bike, complete with the stock program and more practising for the World Champs will commence in the coming days!
06-25-2010, 12:13 AM
#570
Yesterday afternoon I tested my Xerun 60A with a Trinity Pulse 6.5T on my KP09 r/c motorcycle!
I usually run the bike with a Nosram 13.5T, but wanted to see how it would go with a faster motor!
So, I just soldered the 6.5T, installed the Mod528 and ran it as it was. I only changed the LVC to 3.2V/cell and lowered the FDR from 6.94 to 8.48...
The batteries I ran were Turnigy 3000/40C and 3600/30C. They all easily gave me two 10-minutes sessions on one charge, with a 10-15 minutes in between sessions, and they charged to 2700-2750mah afterwards.
The bike was a LOT faster, and for the first time I could realize when the turbo function kicked in. And it did so very visibly! For example, at the 2/3rds of the main straight, with the bike travelling at almost top speed, having pushed the throttle stick to full gradually at around the middle of the straight, you could see the front wheel trying to go off the ground!!! And the straight is quite long at 55m!!!
If I tried to accelerate more quickly at the start of the main straight, it would wheelie abruptly, and it would it so quickly that it ended in a tumble... You just can't catch it!
On corner exits it would either slide progressively (used PMT200 rear tire) or slide AND try to wheelie!
Needless to say I was using the throttle sparingly, not punching it like I used to with the 13.5T... but even so I couldn't manage not to tumble the bike end-over-end a few times! It was so much fun! And so fast!
Also, I managed to get myself lower than 30sec per lap! My old FF3 radio has a timer onboard, which I set to 10 minutes. Every minute it will beep, until the 9.30 minute when it will beep 5 times, then at 10 minutes it will beep a lot of times.
So, I roughly know that if I can do more than two laps in every radio minute, I'm good! Well, with the 13.5T I started doing 1.5 laps per minute, then as I was practising I managed to do almost constant 30-sec laps, but never really lower than that. Yesterday, I was doing laps comparable to the 17.5T RCGT cars, which usually circle at 23 (for the fast guys!) to 28sec per lap... I could do two full laps, proceed to the next 3-4 corners and then there was the Beep!
However... a mod motor definitely needs a front brake added to the bike, because braking with only the rear wheel took its toll, also, because it would slide all over the place when braking, even lightly, not to mention harder accelleration wear! I ended up lowering the ATL to 30%, just to get rid of the rear wheel locking and hopping when braking! (The stock class rules don't allow a mechanical front brake and I didn't bother to install and setup a front brake just for a few runs).
I even ran the last 10-minute session in a light drizzle, first with the worn slick tire, then with a similar treaded PMT200 "cut thread" tire... but the slip and sliding was too much! Not to mention I didn't waterproof anything, so I was in danger of frying something, so I called it a day when the rain started falling steadily!
Later in the evening, back home, the 13.5T found its way again in the bike, complete with the stock program and more practising for the World Champs will commence in the coming days!
I usually run the bike with a Nosram 13.5T, but wanted to see how it would go with a faster motor!
So, I just soldered the 6.5T, installed the Mod528 and ran it as it was. I only changed the LVC to 3.2V/cell and lowered the FDR from 6.94 to 8.48...
The batteries I ran were Turnigy 3000/40C and 3600/30C. They all easily gave me two 10-minutes sessions on one charge, with a 10-15 minutes in between sessions, and they charged to 2700-2750mah afterwards.
The bike was a LOT faster, and for the first time I could realize when the turbo function kicked in. And it did so very visibly! For example, at the 2/3rds of the main straight, with the bike travelling at almost top speed, having pushed the throttle stick to full gradually at around the middle of the straight, you could see the front wheel trying to go off the ground!!! And the straight is quite long at 55m!!!
If I tried to accelerate more quickly at the start of the main straight, it would wheelie abruptly, and it would it so quickly that it ended in a tumble... You just can't catch it!
On corner exits it would either slide progressively (used PMT200 rear tire) or slide AND try to wheelie!
Needless to say I was using the throttle sparingly, not punching it like I used to with the 13.5T... but even so I couldn't manage not to tumble the bike end-over-end a few times! It was so much fun! And so fast!
Also, I managed to get myself lower than 30sec per lap! My old FF3 radio has a timer onboard, which I set to 10 minutes. Every minute it will beep, until the 9.30 minute when it will beep 5 times, then at 10 minutes it will beep a lot of times.
So, I roughly know that if I can do more than two laps in every radio minute, I'm good! Well, with the 13.5T I started doing 1.5 laps per minute, then as I was practising I managed to do almost constant 30-sec laps, but never really lower than that. Yesterday, I was doing laps comparable to the 17.5T RCGT cars, which usually circle at 23 (for the fast guys!) to 28sec per lap... I could do two full laps, proceed to the next 3-4 corners and then there was the Beep!
However... a mod motor definitely needs a front brake added to the bike, because braking with only the rear wheel took its toll, also, because it would slide all over the place when braking, even lightly, not to mention harder accelleration wear! I ended up lowering the ATL to 30%, just to get rid of the rear wheel locking and hopping when braking! (The stock class rules don't allow a mechanical front brake and I didn't bother to install and setup a front brake just for a few runs).
I even ran the last 10-minute session in a light drizzle, first with the worn slick tire, then with a similar treaded PMT200 "cut thread" tire... but the slip and sliding was too much! Not to mention I didn't waterproof anything, so I was in danger of frying something, so I called it a day when the rain started falling steadily!
Later in the evening, back home, the 13.5T found its way again in the bike, complete with the stock program and more practising for the World Champs will commence in the coming days!