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Old 06-25-2011, 06:04 AM   #5401
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Cobraracing I have a 60a esc v2 that was send for service-warranty but still have problems for programming,what should I do with this send it again?
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:18 PM   #5402
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Cobraracing I have a 60a esc v2 that was send for service-warranty but still have problems for programming,what should I do with this send it again?
please tell me more what issues excatly are you having with programming?what are you using 2 in 1 programer or the led programmer etc etc and what excatly is accuring then ill be able to help you it might be something simple instead of sending it all the way back to china for extra costs to you .
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Old 06-26-2011, 02:09 AM   #5403
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hey guys ive got question ive got hobbywing and sp esc's and 1 2in1 program box. question is are the firmwares identical? is one better than the other? been a hassel swaping and changing and i,m just going to stick with 1 firmware for both but undecided which one. cheers
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:38 PM   #5404
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please tell me more what issues excatly are you having with programming?what are you using 2 in 1 programer or the led programmer etc etc and what excatly is accuring then ill be able to help you it might be something simple instead of sending it all the way back to china for extra costs to you .
Thanks for answer I have the 2 in1 programmer and my problem is I can't calibrate the ESC with my radio all other functions seems to work fine when I use the 2 in 1 programmer but not this.I have other Hobbywing esc(6 to be exact) and I know how to do the calibration process have my end points at 100% and subtrims at 0.I push the button on the esc on/off switch and turn on the switch but sometimes it gets into calibration mode sometimes it doesn't.The only times the esc gets into calibration mode(red light flashing)as soon as I try to set the first point(neutral) the esc just shows a solid red light and thats it.
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:39 PM   #5405
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Hi Guys

I am in the process of setting up a facebook page for Hobbywing just to expand our lines of communication for all of us .china will be the only place with no facebook access sorry guys .
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Old 06-26-2011, 06:23 PM   #5406
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Hi all...

can someone please explain in neanderthal language how these computer settings work? please.

I have mucked around and in the end i have gone back to default and getting left behind compared to the tekins.

Someone mentioned something about total of 60 degrees to boost and turbo?

I am experiencing severe temperatures in the motor atm.. 6.11 FDR with 17.5T

So while i try and understand the computery stuff, i gonna do the following first.
Someone said it could be batteries (3800mAh) so upgrading to 5300mAh.
Gonna fully rebuild driveline (again) to ensure no binding of any type, but think it is ok..
Someone also mentioned loosening my rear drive belt.
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:38 AM   #5407
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once you get your head around it, it is rather simple.211 software
basically yes you have 64 deg total you can add,you can have up to 64 deg boost (but then no turbo)or up to i think 40 deg turbo.or a combo of both.
the boost can be set to come in at a certain rev range
you need to experiment with this and see were you need it to start,to early can cause spin outs/slip etc, to late can lag out of corners etc.
how much you need is track dependent.
also you can adjust how quickly the boost comes on.or deg per rpm
EG. if you set 20 deg boost starting at 5000rpm with 500rpm step
every 500rpm a deg of timing is added,so from 5,000-15,000rpm a deg is added every 500rpm.by 15,000 rpm you have the full 20 deg boost
then you have turbo,this comes in once all the boost is used and your trigger is at full throttle for the pre set time,(this is set separate eg 0.1 second)
and depends on slope
EG if you have 24 deg turbo with a slop rate 12deg/0.1 sec. then if full throttle is held and all boost requirements met turbo will take 0.2 seconds to add 24 deg turbo to the motor
or you could have 3deg/0.1 sec. which would take 0.8 seconds for all 24 deg to be added.
personally i have found if your going to use a lot of boost and turbo you need to lower your fdr considerably as compared to a none boost setup
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:35 AM   #5408
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Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl View Post
once you get your head around it, it is rather simple.211 software
basically yes you have 64 deg total you can add,you can have up to 64 deg boost (but then no turbo)or up to i think 40 deg turbo.or a combo of both.
the boost can be set to come in at a certain rev range
you need to experiment with this and see were you need it to start,to early can cause spin outs/slip etc, to late can lag out of corners etc.
how much you need is track dependent.
also you can adjust how quickly the boost comes on.or deg per rpm
EG. if you set 20 deg boost starting at 5000rpm with 500rpm step
every 500rpm a deg of timing is added,so from 5,000-15,000rpm a deg is added every 500rpm.by 15,000 rpm you have the full 20 deg boost
then you have turbo,this comes in once all the boost is used and your trigger is at full throttle for the pre set time,(this is set separate eg 0.1 second)
and depends on slope
EG if you have 24 deg turbo with a slop rate 12deg/0.1 sec. then if full throttle is held and all boost requirements met turbo will take 0.2 seconds to add 24 deg turbo to the motor
or you could have 3deg/0.1 sec. which would take 0.8 seconds for all 24 deg to be added.
personally i have found if your going to use a lot of boost and turbo you need to lower your fdr considerably as compared to a none boost setup
This is a fantastic post.. prolly the best I have seen it explained.

SO... all we need now is a data logger, and the ability to set an rpm end point

(But I think the rules in Australia don't actually allow data loggers to be running during events.)
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:50 AM   #5409
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I'd start around 8 on the fdr, and then use the following;
DDRS: 9
boost timing: 40
start rpm: 6000
ACC: 400
Turbo timing: 15
Turbo ramp: 18
Turbo delay: 0.2s
The other settings adjust to suit. That will be pretty conservative, but a good base to start from. Should mention that would be for the 211 software, try and get someone to load that for you if you don't have a program box.

Thanks for the advive on this one. We defo dont have 211 software so had to go with;
Punch 7
had to turn boost timing down to 12 degs due to heat
start at 6000
acc 400
turbo timing 9 degs
delay 0.2
ran it all day at nearly 8 fdr and was getting 130 degs (f not c!) No fan.
Hope to get the 211 put on next weekend
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Old 06-27-2011, 02:16 AM   #5410
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Originally Posted by Gav- View Post
This is a fantastic post.. prolly the best I have seen it explained.

SO... all we need now is a data logger, and the ability to set an rpm end point

(But I think the rules in Australia don't actually allow data loggers to be running during events.)
thanks
you could use a data logger etc during practise tho
to be honest i have access to both a data logger and a proper 4wd Rc dyno
there fantastic, for gathering info. the best way imo is just run the sucker.
its very hard to give some body a setup that will work unless they have the same car at the same track and drive the same.
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Old 06-27-2011, 03:31 AM   #5411
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SO... all we need now is a data logger, and the ability to set an rpm end point
When are people going to stop dreaming about this Friggin Data Logger. They will never make it fit into a small enough package for us to be happy with. There is hardly any room in a modern car as it is.


And I wish they would actually tell us what each step of the boost and turbo was in degree's so we could figure out our end Rpm... Back in the good old 518 days it was much easier IMO as setting 7 was 18 degrees and if i had 6 turbo and timing acc 350 with a 6000 start my end rpm was going to be 14400. The current set up guide for 211 is not exactly clear on this issue.

Has anyone done much testing with settings above 64 points IE boost 50 turbo 30? I have one club meet for the season left and after the last race i plan on seeing if i can blow up my seasons motor with max settings(just for fun) Techincally the 211 manual says the speedy wont add more than 64 points.
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:57 AM   #5412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangas View Post
I am experiencing severe temperatures in the motor atm.. 6.11 FDR with 17.5T

It depends on your motor brand but I found that with my novak ballistic (timing wound down) a fdr of 5.32 actually made the motor cooler even with full boost. I can't remember the esc settings ATM but they are approx:
Boost: 40
Turbo: 26
Start rpm: 3000~
Acc: 200~

I have found that the harder a motor revs, the faster the magnetic field changes the more heat is created.
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Old 06-27-2011, 06:22 AM   #5413
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
When are people going to stop dreaming about this Friggin Data Logger. They will never make it fit into a small enough package for us to be happy with. There is hardly any room in a modern car as it is.
It was more a tongue in cheek thing. Along the same vein that you were saying... I don't think there is enough info about 211, for us to set it up correctly. We need an "end RPM" or some info about steps so we can tweak for each track.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:34 AM   #5414
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how could hobbywing give a end rpm,they would have to calculate every variable,which would be every motor that could be used with the esc
with every different gearing possibility and with every different boost/turbo combo. because changing anyone of these would change the end rpm.
the chart would be more confusing than the esc it self would it not
Hmm as you say we need a data logger hehe
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:32 PM   #5415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raypa View Post
Thanks for answer I have the 2 in1 programmer and my problem is I can't calibrate the ESC with my radio all other functions seems to work fine when I use the 2 in 1 programmer but not this.I have other Hobbywing esc(6 to be exact) and I know how to do the calibration process have my end points at 100% and subtrims at 0.I push the button on the esc on/off switch and turn on the switch but sometimes it gets into calibration mode sometimes it doesn't.The only times the esc gets into calibration mode(red light flashing)as soon as I try to set the first point(neutral) the esc just shows a solid red light and thats it.
Ok send me your email address mine is teamcobraracing@gmail.com and ill send you a patch file to see if we can sort you out .

Angelo
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