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Old 06-16-2011, 04:33 AM   #5311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millbank View Post
The best way to run a LRP X12 is with 2 dot because the motors generate less heat.
So the engine will run cooler with more end bell timing... I really tend to disagree....


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Originally Posted by MircoThalheimer-LRP
The best timing insert is always oooo (-10). This will give the best performance to the motors and will also keep down the temperature.

http://www.lrp.cc/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=7278
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Last edited by M7H; 06-16-2011 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:58 AM   #5312
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Originally Posted by millbank View Post
The best way to run a LRP X12 is with 2 dot because the motors generate less heat. The motors don't like to run in a retarded position. I got this info from a team driver. If you want to see the difference then run a conservative setting on the speedo with the 4 dot in, then switch to the 2 dot and see which ran cooler. I know it will be the 2 dot.
Dont know about 13.5 T but here we ran X12 10.5 T for pro-stock class with a few guys running on HW speedos which includes me have had an increase in temperature when running with 2 dots. So 4 dots run much cooler than 2 dots though running in 4 dots we still had temperature of about 70-80 degree C after 5 mins. The surrounding temperature was at about 44 degree C.
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:28 AM   #5313
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Originally Posted by millbank View Post
The best way to run a LRP X12 is with 2 dot because the motors generate less heat. The motors don't like to run in a retarded position. I got this info from a team driver. If you want to see the difference then run a conservative setting on the speedo with the 4 dot in, then switch to the 2 dot and see which ran cooler. I know it will be the 2 dot.
I disagree with that. When ever I ran anything other than a 4dot in the X12 (and bear in mind I've run these for over a year and a half!), it got 20C hotter. 100% the only way to run an X12 with turbo software is the 4dot. If your not running it like that, I think your doing something wrong with the software. Zero timing however, different matter.

The trick with the X12's, they don't mind the heat. 70C is perfectly normal, I've happily run one consistently up above 100C for a full weekends racing, and it's still going strong today.
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:53 AM   #5314
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I've happily run one consistently up above 100C for a full weekends racing, and it's still going strong today.
I only loose breaking power around 100C, so try to keep it cooler, but am not scared about some heat, come on, we are racing!
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:32 AM   #5315
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Default Esc damaged

Hello Dear Brother,

I have two esc of 120A -v2.1 damaged and my friend have 1 also. Both of us are playing touring car with 4T sp motor together with a Final Gear Ratio of 10.0 to 10.5. running in a indoor asphalt venue. Totally 3 ESCs were damaged.
Setting is not aggressive, medium boost and turbo timing. After five mins. runing the temp. was only 60 to 70 (motor) and 50 (esc).
Would you please advise me the solution for that problem and what is the suitable final gear ratio and setting of the esc. ?
Thanks all!

RC player in HK
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:12 AM   #5316
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
You plug it in your pc with the lcd card, and you upgrade to 508_notiming software on your esc. Then it should blink at neutral?
Thanks that was too easy.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:35 AM   #5317
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Originally Posted by jensen123 View Post
Hello Dear Brother,

I have two esc of 120A -v2.1 damaged and my friend have 1 also. Both of us are playing touring car with 4T sp motor together with a Final Gear Ratio of 10.0 to 10.5. running in a indoor asphalt venue. Totally 3 ESCs were damaged.
Setting is not aggressive, medium boost and turbo timing. After five mins. runing the temp. was only 60 to 70 (motor) and 50 (esc).
Would you please advise me the solution for that problem and what is the suitable final gear ratio and setting of the esc. ?
Thanks all!

RC player in HK
Canyou give more details on the settings? To be honest, even mild settings with a 4t will possibly cause issues, especially in the HK heat!
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:28 AM   #5318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millbank View Post
The best way to run a LRP X12 is with 2 dot because the motors generate less heat. The motors don't like to run in a retarded position. I got this info from a team driver. If you want to see the difference then run a conservative setting on the speedo with the 4 dot in, then switch to the 2 dot and see which ran cooler. I know it will be the 2 dot.
I agree...17.5 boosted. SXX stock spec V2 4.4 though. 5 blinks on internal temp. Which is another 25deg C before shut down..so its running at 65-75deg C...It does this ALL day....and its fast, keeps up with the Hobbywings no problems..
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Old 06-16-2011, 04:15 PM   #5319
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Hi Guys can someone give me settings for stock spec speedo running an x12 13.5 on a small outdoor track gearing starting and speedo settings.

Regards

Ricky
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:12 PM   #5320
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Canyou give more details on the settings? To be honest, even mild settings with a 4t will possibly cause issues, especially in the HK heat!
Dear brother,

My esc setting are:-
punch 6
boost 8
turbo 10
turbo slope fastest
turbo delay 0.3
(with 4 T sp motor final gear ratio is 10.5)
No special issue before dead, temp of both were normal as mentioned, but 3 of them got suddenly dead, any recommendation??
Thanks again!
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:09 PM   #5321
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Originally Posted by jensen123 View Post
Dear brother,

My esc setting are:-
punch 6
boost 8
turbo 10
turbo slope fastest
turbo delay 0.3
(with 4 T sp motor final gear ratio is 10.5)
No special issue before dead, temp of both were normal as mentioned, but 3 of them got suddenly dead, any recommendation??
Thanks again!
Turbo slop I would drop to 12. Also less punch setting too (1-2). What Boost Acceleration value is used?
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:02 AM   #5322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jensen123 View Post
Dear brother,

My esc setting are:-
punch 6
boost 8
turbo 10
turbo slope fastest
turbo delay 0.3
(with 4 T sp motor final gear ratio is 10.5)
No special issue before dead, temp of both were normal as mentioned, but 3 of them got suddenly dead, any recommendation??
Thanks again!
What firmware are you running in the ESC?
I hope it is MOD firmware...
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:26 AM   #5323
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Originally Posted by mikecatts View Post
I agree...17.5 boosted. SXX stock spec V2 4.4 though. 5 blinks on internal temp. Which is another 25deg C before shut down..so its running at 65-75deg C...It does this ALL day....and its fast, keeps up with the Hobbywings no problems..

Hey mate what track do u run on I like the setup... Looks like a good track
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:39 AM   #5324
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Steve,

The track is in SA. Might be a bit of a drive for you.

Calvin.
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:52 AM   #5325
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Originally Posted by FunkyDunky View Post
I agree with swapping the sensor lead first for sure my I had the same fault and it turned out to be the sensor in the motor I was using, changed that worked perfect!

It would appear that everything is pointing to a sensor lead fault.... I will change this and test it.

BUT why after it has only been turned off and on would it run faultlessly for 5 mins ? surely if it was a dodgy sensor lead it would drop into sensorless mode with no timing mid run ?

Mark
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