4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
04-27-2011, 12:03 AM
#4861
Hi Guys, just a quick question can i run my xtreme stock esc with a 1cell lipo ?? looking to move over to 12th scale pan and didn't want to change esc if i don't have too
thanx
thanx
04-27-2011, 01:31 AM
#4862
04-27-2011, 01:38 AM
#4863
I tried him out years ago when i asked him about servo's about making some servos and to be honest he lost more 150k hiring an engineer to design servos then to get one and copy it .he hit the roof when asked to copy someone else's .Jack and the hobbywing team dont play games with copyrights and copied products .
04-27-2011, 01:45 AM
#4864
Posted on a UK forum
You need to put the red wire from the booser receiver lead plug and put it into the esc receiver lead (remove the red lead from the esc receiver lead and insulate as it is not needed). Now plug the modified ESC receiver lead plug into the programming box, switch on both switches and it works. I have been using this set-up for a year! You will need to plug the booster receiver lead plug with the one black lead in it into the receiver for racing as well as the modified esc lead.
In the pic you can see the Hobbywing Xtreme Stock and RC Dynamics booster. The rx lead from the esc has the red lead removed and tiewraped out of the way. The booster rx plug has the red lead removed and inserted into the esc rx plug. Both the booster and esc plug need to be in the receiver and both units need turning on to be able to drive the model. To use the programming box the modified esc rx plug needs to be used in the programmer like normal but both switches must be turned on.
In the pic you can see the Hobbywing Xtreme Stock and RC Dynamics booster. The rx lead from the esc has the red lead removed and tiewraped out of the way. The booster rx plug has the red lead removed and inserted into the esc rx plug. Both the booster and esc plug need to be in the receiver and both units need turning on to be able to drive the model. To use the programming box the modified esc rx plug needs to be used in the programmer like normal but both switches must be turned on.
04-27-2011, 02:01 AM
#4865
Angelo, or anyone else who may know!
Can you tell me the temperature at which the 120/60a v2.1 thermal cut off is set?
Thanks
Can you tell me the temperature at which the 120/60a v2.1 thermal cut off is set?
Thanks
04-27-2011, 02:52 AM
#4866
Tech Addict
is the motor temp is depends on firmware, rather than esc itself...? concern on the new design esc what are the improvement...?
04-27-2011, 03:32 AM
#4867
04-27-2011, 04:00 AM
#4868
Tech Regular
countrefiete Escs
I recently bought a HW esc from this ebay seller,ive emailed him and this is his reply.So looks like he is selling copies ,so buyers beware.
I must say it is identical to other one i have and works perfectly.Packaging and every thing looks good.
Hello,
Thank you for your reply ,
I am sorry for your question ,
It is because we have not sell genuine HW escs .
-EBAY SELLER shiptou2010
To: shiptou2010
Subject:XERUN Blue Brushless 120A ESC (1S Lipo Supported)
It has been suggested on a Usa web site you are not selling genuine HW escs they are copies is this correct I was planning to buy another but im in doubt now.
I must say it is identical to other one i have and works perfectly.Packaging and every thing looks good.
Hello,
Thank you for your reply ,
I am sorry for your question ,
It is because we have not sell genuine HW escs .
-EBAY SELLER shiptou2010
To: shiptou2010
Subject:XERUN Blue Brushless 120A ESC (1S Lipo Supported)
It has been suggested on a Usa web site you are not selling genuine HW escs they are copies is this correct I was planning to buy another but im in doubt now.
04-27-2011, 04:16 AM
#4869
Would any problems arise if I had a y harness coming out of the esc, one into the receiver and one for when I want to program the esc with the setting card? I'm worried something might go wrong when I connect the esc to the lcd card and the esc powering the receiver at the same time.
04-27-2011, 04:31 AM
#4870
@Angelo is that temperature cutoff of 95C measured on the outside of the can or inside where the rotor is?
I ran the xerun 10.5t motor with a xerun 120v2.1 in my 235mm pancar last monday during the easter race and it worked flawlessly. It was quite warm weather, roughly 25-28 C or something.
I run punch at 1 or 2 and with 8000-10.000 start and low to normal settings it has lots of grunt down below and lots of top speed on the straight when turbo engages. With roughly 1/2 to 2/3 of the price of other brands motors it is really an amazing motor. After 7 minutes of hot racing action i had roughly 62-65 degree C on the can. After 5 minutes or so in the race it felt a little flatter then before but that could also be the lipo's that have less voltage to work with.
The sensor screws that backed out previously hold up this time. No problems anymore with a loose sensorboard.
Even though it has fixed timing (something i was a little dissapointed by at first), I must admit now that the xerun is a very nice and well build motor. I also like the fact that the motor wires are solderd on gold plugs so it is easy to remove the motor without desoldering the motor wires. (Just found out that they were gold plugs 2 weeks ago when one plug got a little loose
)
I ran the xerun 10.5t motor with a xerun 120v2.1 in my 235mm pancar last monday during the easter race and it worked flawlessly. It was quite warm weather, roughly 25-28 C or something.
I run punch at 1 or 2 and with 8000-10.000 start and low to normal settings it has lots of grunt down below and lots of top speed on the straight when turbo engages. With roughly 1/2 to 2/3 of the price of other brands motors it is really an amazing motor. After 7 minutes of hot racing action i had roughly 62-65 degree C on the can. After 5 minutes or so in the race it felt a little flatter then before but that could also be the lipo's that have less voltage to work with.
The sensor screws that backed out previously hold up this time. No problems anymore with a loose sensorboard.
Even though it has fixed timing (something i was a little dissapointed by at first), I must admit now that the xerun is a very nice and well build motor. I also like the fact that the motor wires are solderd on gold plugs so it is easy to remove the motor without desoldering the motor wires. (Just found out that they were gold plugs 2 weeks ago when one plug got a little loose
)
04-27-2011, 05:04 AM
#4871
Would any problems arise if I had a y harness coming out of the esc, one into the receiver and one for when I want to program the esc with the setting card? I'm worried something might go wrong when I connect the esc to the lcd card and the esc powering the receiver at the same time.
04-27-2011, 05:09 AM
#4872
As long there is 1 power source only i cannot see a problem with a y harness .if you use the pc power and the esc power source at the same time then you will kill the bec and the factory program which means the esc will have to go back to factory to restore the factory settings.
04-27-2011, 12:19 PM
#4873
Hello,
anyone has a good setup for a 10.5 sp motor?
This is for a very fast track. With a 60m straight line.
thx.
anyone has a good setup for a 10.5 sp motor?
This is for a very fast track. With a 60m straight line.
thx.
04-27-2011, 01:59 PM
#4874
04-28-2011, 02:29 AM
#4875
SP v3 10.5
Max endbell timing
FDR 7.30
FW211
DRRS - 9
Boost - 44
Boost Start - 9000RPM
Boost Ramp - 200RPM/deg
Turbo - 20
Turbo Ramp - 12/0.1s
Turbo Delay - 0.2s