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Old 04-29-2010, 02:02 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by razzor View Post
Most likely problem is the esc is activating the lipo voltage cut off.
Check it and set to 3v or 3.2v.
Also using a battery around 3000mah is very likely not going to last longer with the supercharge feature.
We are close to cut off using 5000mah batteries in a 5 min race.
The new software uses a lot more mah compared to the old pre supercharge versions.
Only other possibility is temp cut off which you can disable and try but do check that esc is not getting hot.
I have the cutoff set at 3.2V always, in all my ESC's.
The problem with the "small" batteries, is that the bike fairing is too narrow in the bottom to accommodate any bigger mah batteries! So... only 3200/3300s can be used effectively! I even tried "naked" 4000mah cells but they are too wide to fit, even though they are quite slim.

However, after the 3-minute mark that the "cutoff" happened, the batteries both ran another or two sessions of 3 minutes. The 3300 came on the cutoff, after about 10 minutes, which is fair.
(The bike races will be 7 minutes).
Also, when testing the previous SC it would not behave similarly and allowed a 10 or more minute runtime...
Of course I can give it a bit lower gearing, since the top speed is more than enough, really and the exit-from-slow-corners punch could be a bit more... gearing-dependend, the old fashion way!

But this will have to wait till tomorrow and the weekend!
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:05 PM   #32
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Also great to have the lcd programmer working with the 3 modes/profiles available again so you can make quick back to back comparisons
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:19 PM   #33
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Excuse me guys,but does it work also on Ezrun 35A V2 sensorless esc?
Tnx!
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:24 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by bazspencer View Post
Excuse me guys,but does it work also on Ezrun 35A V2 sensorless esc?
Tnx!
No only on the Xerun sensored esc's.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:31 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steliosh View Post
I have the cutoff set at 3.2V always, in all my ESC's.
The problem with the "small" batteries, is that the bike fairing is too narrow in the bottom to accommodate any bigger mah batteries! So... only 3200/3300s can be used effectively! I even tried "naked" 4000mah cells but they are too wide to fit, even though they are quite slim.

However, after the 3-minute mark that the "cutoff" happened, the batteries both ran another or two sessions of 3 minutes. The 3300 came on the cutoff, after about 10 minutes, which is fair.
(The bike races will be 7 minutes).
Also, when testing the previous SC it would not behave similarly and allowed a 10 or more minute runtime...
Of course I can give it a bit lower gearing, since the top speed is more than enough, really and the exit-from-slow-corners punch could be a bit more... gearing-dependend, the old fashion way!

But this will have to wait till tomorrow and the weekend!
If you getting multiple runs on a single charge in 3 min spurts then i can only assume esc is thermalling or the motor is fading as it gets hot.
Try a less aggressive setup on the supercharge settings and/or shorten gearing a bit more.
Note though undergearing can also overheat a esc and motor.
Thinking about it you should deactivate supercharge and adjust settings for the bike to run good before activating supercharge.
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:02 PM   #36
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You don't need to flame me, it was a only a joke. A coincidence really... HW said "TNT" and then the "grenading" comment, it was really something so appropriately comic! I have PAID for my equipment, so I'm allowed to point to a good joke, when I see one!

Anyway, back to business:
I tested briefly the newest SW with mixed results.
First of all, I set it up as per the HW PDF recommendations, that is:
9. Option 8
12. Option 7
13. Option 3
14. Option 5
15. Option 2

I didn't have your settings with me, at the track, so I went on by the pdf...

I remind that I run a 1/5 motorcycle with Xerun 60A and Nosram 13.5T sensored, geared in the longish (as I already wrote in the other thread).

Well... At first I did a medium throttle warm up lap, it all went fine, then on the main straight (60m plus...) I open the throttle fully and the bike wheelied to God and tumbled! It caught me by surprise, to be honest! I didn't expect it to do so with a "humble" 13.5T!!!! I turned around and started running the main straight up and down, doing wheelies! It was huge fun! Anyway, I remembered why I went to the track (there were no... spectators, as well!) so I started lapping...

At one time, after about 3-4 minutes, I drove the bike to the pits, to do some tinkering with the suspension. I didn't shut off the Rx or Tx, just did my work for a few seconds, then sent it out in the track and it was going SLOWLY! Slowly as in 27T tin-can brushed! What the heck?!

I returned the bike to the pits, lcd card in hand, I reran everything once, then did the Tx/Rx settings again and sent it out. It again had huge (wheelie!) power, so I started lapping normally... and carefully due to the newfound power! At around 3 minutes, it slowed down again. The battery I was using was a hardcase 3200/20C from rcmart. I removed the battery, let everything cool down for a few minutes, not that the motor was hot to touch, but anyway, I had to make sure everthing on the chassis was still tightly bolted and visually intact...

So, new battery installed, a Turnigy 3300/30C, the bike is going fast for three minutes, then it slows again. Turn it off, rerun the settings with lcd card, rerun the Tx/Rx settings, send it out, it is fast again!
I did it three times with this battery, with capacity to spare...

What gives here?!!!

I have to say, I installed the FW from my computer at home, twice, as usual with the latest FW's just in case, and had set the battery cut off at 3.0V.
I never really ran out of battery juice, or had any "thermal" issued with either the ESC or the motor. They were both warm, but easy to touch, and are both in the airflow, plus the ESC fan is always working.

Any ideas, anyone?!!!
Stelios,how many times do i have to tell you that your system goes to sensorless and it comes back to sensored only when you turn off and then on again the power switch? Check again your sensor cable and the sensor board on your motor or even better try with another motor(but IMO it's a software bug).I had the same issue (that's why i left HW and i moved to the mamba max pro),Nikos also on our last RCGT Race and many other guys here are complaining about this.
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:14 PM   #37
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it seems we are the beta testers... let's hope HW listens!
I already said it earlier about my suspicion on my sensor cable... I have one on order from Nikos!
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:23 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by mlight13 View Post
One common solution is to load the firmware twice, or load the new one, roll back to an old one, then load the new one again. This worked for me and a lot of other people. If you already did that, then I have no idea.
Yep tried those

Even tried going 324 - 110 - 422 and still no luck

I wonder if at some time during the beta software updates I have done something to the speedie? that may cause it not to work properly?
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:23 PM   #39
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Can the 422 beta stock supercharge firmware suitable for 8.5t? IF its possible, what is the reccomended setting for it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Nothing lasts forever but if your stupid enough not to follow instructions you will kill anything no matter what .The problem in the past with alot of the Oem stuff was that the brand name would say its 120 amp but it can handle 200 amp .now that to me is false info and it is really stupid .follow instructions and nothing will go wrong nothing more said.

It it says 120 amp that is the peak the burst current is different all together .

if you use 11.5T ,you can try this setting :

9=7
12=8 or 9
13=4
14=5
15=4

FDR : 6.4

if you use 10.5 ,you can try this setting:

9=6
12=7 or 8
13=4
14=5
15=4

FDR : 6.4

if your using 13.5T you can try this setting

9=8
12=8-9
13=4
14=5
15=4

just some setup ideas
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:28 PM   #40
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422.. one word.. AWESOME! Compared it to 231,324 and 410 of SP firmware and on 11.5t, i tried it on all basic settings of the original 422 with fdr of 8.3 and the power was capable to keep up with firmware mod 323t on 4.0t.


Is 422 capable to run on 8.5t? and if so what is the reccomended settings?
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:21 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by steliosh View Post
it seems we are the beta testers... let's hope HW listens!
I already said it earlier about my suspicion on my sensor cable... I have one on order from Nikos!
Sounds like the same problem that the Tekin has, have you tried calibrating at 80% throttle, then set the radio endpoints back to 100%.

They all seem to lose their endpoints once they start heating up.
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:26 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by eceer View Post
Yep tried those

Even tried going 324 - 110 - 422 and still no luck

I wonder if at some time during the beta software updates I have done something to the speedie? that may cause it not to work properly?
sure you recalibrated transmitter with esc after update?

aka hold set button as you turn it on - do calibration settings.
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Old 04-29-2010, 06:20 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Sounds like the same problem that the Tekin has, have you tried calibrating at 80% throttle, then set the radio endpoints back to 100%.

They all seem to lose their endpoints once they start heating up.
I will do and report duly, tomorrow, then!
Didn't know of that one...
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:06 PM   #44
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WOW! And I say again....WOW!
Downloaded the stock firmware to my black Xerun 120 tonight and, well, WOW! I left all the settings as downloaded and when I fired it up, almost ballooned the tires right off the wheels. So I toned everything down.
Here's my settings as of right now:
(1) #2
(2) #5
(3) 3.0v/cell
(4) #3
(5) #2
(6) #1
(7) #1
(8) #1
(9) #2
(10) enable
(12) #1
(13) #4
(14) #4
(15) #3

My motor is a Novak 13.5

I hope to try this out Sunday (weather permitting) & hopefully won't burn anything up.
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Last edited by drsmooth; 04-29-2010 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:38 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Sounds like the same problem that the Tekin has, have you tried calibrating at 80% throttle, then set the radio endpoints back to 100%.

They all seem to lose their endpoints once they start heating up.
It's not the same problem.After a while speedo turns to sensorless without a reason,LEDs are blinking and i don't think that re-calibrating the end points at 80% could be the solution.From the other you can't ever be sure with this electronic stuff.
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