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Old 03-23-2011, 09:19 AM   #4261
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Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
easiest way to understand kv ratings is this: ignore them. too many factors in producing the numbers (voltage used, timing used, load used etc) for them to be of any use.

Compound that with dynamic timing speedos which increase rpm, and kv is even more meaningless than before.

One thought for the group here... many many pages of people talking software, firmware, motors, kv and not a single actual setup other than those posted by cherry !
+1

looks like someone is looking at joining the HobbyWAGON

I said bye to my GM's after being blown away by the hobbywings. GM need a mode 10 just to be in the same ballpark.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:27 AM   #4262
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I did some testing today. Tekin v's hobbywing 119. Not even close. HW consistently 0.3-0.5 secs per lap quicker, more grunt, more top end, better drive-ability. I'm happy to be using a speedy that is half the price of a tekin, and does a better job.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:46 AM   #4263
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Star/Delta configuration originally is intended for 3 phase electrical motors in the heavy industry, a motor will start in "Star" configuration, to keep the current in Amps to a lower level without blowing the fuses, once the motor reaches a certain RPM (mostly after a few seconds) the motor will be switched into "delta" configuration, which really looks like it's shifting into 2nd gear....

I really believe that some day, we will see the same in our RC scene, and we will have a car "shifting" to 2nd gear, and I'm not talking turbo, that will be the 3rd gear!....
yeah... some day we will see 6 phase work's Together, it was my Dream!
Since That Germany Brushless Motor open 6 phase to configure,
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:57 AM   #4264
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Ok Irgo im going to ask you a question maybe you can help me out from snabbgas info ok.

I have had a look at tekins motors on there website just as a reference and there 10.5T is rated at 4500kv and the hobbywing 10.5T is 3300kv so if all roar approved motors are star winds which means more torque not rpm then how do the tekins achieve the kv rating 1200kv more in a roar approved star config than hobbywing motors can achieve when the delta wind = more rpm resulting in more kv .right?

let me know what you know and we can start a debate so all can learn.
Sir, i think Cherry2Blost already gave you a reason why,

and Delta Wound is act like Mod they are all (3) active Coil,
Star wound is not, they can work 2 Coils or 3 Coils commutation.

When Star Wound is doing the 2 Coils only, The 11.5t motor work's like 23t
2X Longer coils active.
but Delta Wound is not. The 2 Coils work's like 23t and the other ones still
work's as 11.5t.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:51 AM   #4265
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rightio! Cheers mate


And its a good idea to update the 2in1 Programmer before your upgrade the ESC. I have always done this and have had excellent results.

I also only program the ESC when its running a 2S battery, as I normally run a 1S battery for racing. I figure the extra voltage wouldnt hurt. :-)


Shawn.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:53 AM   #4266
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211 users ...
What are the brakes like?
TONS. On a Novak Ballistic 17.5. Had to turn the radio down, or I would lock them up, and spin out.


Shawn.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:02 AM   #4267
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I do wonder about the kv ratings, when I bought my 10.5 Xerun I worried it may lack some revs, but I'm thinking maybe the kv gets fudged as a selling point, cause mine seems every bit as good as my old SP, and I'd even say it seems smoother (the SP always felt a little course).

Either way, seriously don't go over thinking or beating up anything, at the end of the day they just work, ROAR will be the icing on a nice bit of gear.
Dont worry about the KV rating, most of those numbers are based on manufacture timings, and their speedo. Once you start mixing and matching who knows what you are going to get.

Saying that, all ROAR approved STOCK motors are very close in construction, and performance.

Also, if a motor has a lower KV, and is not revving, then you just need to run a different gear. its WATTS that you want, not RPM. You just need to figure out the gear required for the quickest lap time.


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Old 03-23-2011, 02:37 PM   #4268
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And its a good idea to update the 2in1 Programmer before your upgrade the ESC. I have always done this and have had excellent results.

Shawn.
Cheers, I'll keep that in mind
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:06 PM   #4269
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Star/Delta configuration originally is intended for 3 phase electrical motors in the heavy industry, a motor will start in "Star" configuration, to keep the current in Amps to a lower level without blowing the fuses, once the motor reaches a certain RPM (mostly after a few seconds) the motor will be switched into "delta" configuration, which really looks like it's shifting into 2nd gear....

I really believe that some day, we will see the same in our RC scene, and we will have a car "shifting" to 2nd gear, and I'm not talking turbo, that will be the 3rd gear!....
I might just clarify this. The motor doesn't change from star to delta it's the switch gear that has been wired up with 2 contractors. As for having a "second gear" it won't happen as this start up sequence happens in a split second and at such low rpm that it will only be noticeable off the line or out of a hairpin. If at all.
Also the motors are only connected one way through a soldered end ring. To have a star delta option we would have 6 wires to solder to the esc.

It's just not practical.
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Old 03-23-2011, 04:34 PM   #4270
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Could it be because of different endbell timing used when specifying Kv?

Seriously i kind of expect you as a representative of Hobbywing to have very good knowledge about the products you represent!

No one is faultless and certanly not me but im quite certain that motors approved for stock racing can't have stators of the same number of turns but differ by being wired as Delta/Star because as i said earlier there are a very big differance in favour of a Deltawound motor in terms of delivering power.

Deltawound motors are simply not allowed in stock racing.
You just dont get it do you ?did you see who's questioned i answered ? As i knew it was going to turn bad as it always does answering forum trouble makers questions.

Dont you think i don't know people are trying to bait me ?so i give them that oppertunity to do that if you waited a couple of pages later you would have realised that i was playing the game with the trouble makers .It is the same people causing the issues on this forum all the time thats why to be honest im not interested anymore in posting anythng and that's why i said via email is where you will get help .

Please get a polling together and ask how many people i have emailed with answers to there problems that i have been wrong ?please do it so you can understand what im all about .

You judge me from a 2 posts which you say im wrong like the step to degree all i did was make people understand the software thats all in a simple manner as boost is not related to timing ,boost is a build up of air pressure which is held and released in one large sum related to large turbos in actual large scale cars and not in electronics.so alot of the wording is wrong but i guess your used to it now so there will be no changes .Is it wrong to try and make customers feel part of the hobbywing family with some indepth explanations to make them feel part of the technology and the company ?please tell me im wrong .

Take your time to understand me before you make judgement.Yes i am a rep for hobbywing but i am also a human being with feelings and i will not tolerate nonsense and being dragged down all the time
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:03 PM   #4271
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This thread has too many people waiting to jump at anything they see is wrong/dont understand. TBH who cares how the motors are wound, as long as they are approved and work well and beat the tekins etc then who cares. Same with the degrees/steps arguement a few pages back, WHOOPEE who cares, aslong as you can set it up so that ur motor/esc is safe and ur car is quick then great

Also why do people constantly have a go at angelo, he helps out more than anyone with technical help/ problem solving etc. I bet Mr LRP or Mr Novak doesnt post helping people out on a public forum.

So to the people that just seem to argue i say BUGGER off! and stop cluttering the thread up
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:08 PM   #4272
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Originally Posted by captain stacker View Post
+1

looks like someone is looking at joining the HobbyWAGON

I said bye to my GM's after being blown away by the hobbywings. GM need a mode 10 just to be in the same ballpark.
Nah, this weekend GM's were still faster so there's some progress to be made for sure

I have a 1S speedo that i'm playing about with, but not changing just yet
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:10 PM   #4273
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As usual Angelo you are writing a whole lot of words that don't make mouch sense to me so nothing new here...

Was going to write alot here but i will not. Let's just agree to disagree!
Great minds think alike they say but we don't so probably none of us are great.
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:18 PM   #4274
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Originally Posted by scytherat View Post
This thread has too many people waiting to jump at anything they see is wrong/dont understand. TBH who cares how the motors are wound, as long as they are approved and work well and beat the tekins etc then who cares. Same with the degrees/steps arguement a few pages back, WHOOPEE who cares, aslong as you can set it up so that ur motor/esc is safe and ur car is quick then great

Also why do people constantly have a go at angelo, he helps out more than anyone with technical help/ problem solving etc. I bet Mr LRP or Mr Novak doesnt post helping people out on a public forum.

So to the people that just seem to argue i say BUGGER off! and stop cluttering the thread up

+1

this speedo is great keep up the good work hobbwing
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:18 PM   #4275
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Default PLEASE HELP ME

I need answers to a few questions. AND PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE CAN I GET AN ANSWER, BECAUSE I AM SICK OF POSTING ON THIS FORUM AND GETTING NO HELP WHATSOEVER

Now my question is this I am thinking of doing 10.5 during the outdoor season and require BRCA approved motors. I have been offered a tekin 10.5 from a friend that has never run it, and am tempted to try it (10.5 that is) before I buy.

with that in mind I need the following questions answered:

1. I am using 1224 firware - should I change it?
2. what settings do I need to run - or is itvery similar to using a 13.5 motor?

HELP ME OBI WAN KENOBI - YOUR MY ONLY HOPE
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