NEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
#406
Hi guys, currently I'm using Orca esc and Team Power 11.5T (timing +2) motor on my Xray T3. Ratio 6.64. Temperature after 5mins 180F. Hot right???
Punch through cornerring is still acceptable but on straight road I'm a loser. Tekin RS Pro bit me so well until I get really mad even do their ratio is 8.14. If their ratio same as mine, I will pack my bag and go straight home.
I think it is a time for me to upgrade my esc because a lot of my friends now using Tekin RS Pro and same motor as mine.
I heard about Hobbywing 120a and none of them are using it. If this esc can bit Tekin and make my motor cooler, I might consider it.
Pls help to advise on it because I'm confuse to choose between Hobbywing or Tekin RS Pro....
If you all said Hobbywing is better, tell me why and perhaps some comparison between Tekin RS Pro. Thanks.
Punch through cornerring is still acceptable but on straight road I'm a loser. Tekin RS Pro bit me so well until I get really mad even do their ratio is 8.14. If their ratio same as mine, I will pack my bag and go straight home.
I think it is a time for me to upgrade my esc because a lot of my friends now using Tekin RS Pro and same motor as mine.
I heard about Hobbywing 120a and none of them are using it. If this esc can bit Tekin and make my motor cooler, I might consider it.
Pls help to advise on it because I'm confuse to choose between Hobbywing or Tekin RS Pro....
If you all said Hobbywing is better, tell me why and perhaps some comparison between Tekin RS Pro. Thanks.
#407
Has anyone got starting points for 518 software with the SP V3 10.5 and the LRP X12 10.5 ?
#408
#410
try a larger diameter rotor?
I suspect the rotor magnet is slightly weaker in the SP than the Duo?
#412
err yeah!
get the biggest rotor that can fit in it, 13mm if you can, however check legality at any national events you run the motor in. usually 12.5 mm is the largest they will allow. club racing use the 13mm.
much more torque and will run at a hotter temperature without fading, oh and much better brakes also!
get the biggest rotor that can fit in it, 13mm if you can, however check legality at any national events you run the motor in. usually 12.5 mm is the largest they will allow. club racing use the 13mm.
much more torque and will run at a hotter temperature without fading, oh and much better brakes also!
#413
Tech Adept
err yeah!
get the biggest rotor that can fit in it, 13mm if you can, however check legality at any national events you run the motor in. usually 12.5 mm is the largest they will allow. club racing use the 13mm.
much more torque and will run at a hotter temperature without fading, oh and much better brakes also!
get the biggest rotor that can fit in it, 13mm if you can, however check legality at any national events you run the motor in. usually 12.5 mm is the largest they will allow. club racing use the 13mm.
much more torque and will run at a hotter temperature without fading, oh and much better brakes also!
Anyone who's interested in a good setting for rubber tires indoors I have come accross this setting with a 13.5.
Motor - GM 13.5 with stock timing.
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 3
15 - 5
Working out what these settings are actually doing, my cars starting and ending rpms (before turbo kicks in) is 3,000 to 17,400rpm. Even on a small carpet layout, the car exiting a fast sweeper onto a small straight is doing around 18,000rpms!
How I work these settings out -
Timing punch (15) setting 5 is 700rpm increment as per PDF.
Boost (9) is setting 8 (21 degrees) so 700 x 21 = 14,700 then add timing
start (3000) = 17,400rpm. This is before the turbo kicks in!
The car is doing 23,300rpm with turbo and yet a 13.5 motor can easily manage 70,000rpms at full chat with this software. Even with a 13.5 I find it maddening that some people out there are setting this esc with timing punch 1 and start 7500rpm for example. That would mean the timing kicks in between 7500rpm and 11,700rpm before turbo timing! That is insane LOL. The car accelerates to top speed in 1 second, making the car on a technical layout burn out rubber tires out in a few minutes!
I had this in the past with the Mamba Max Pro and it's god awful set like this and I know the GM also doesn't work well either set like this, so I presume this esc works the same way.
I found having a long timing ramp to be far more helpful to getting consistentcy and laptimes as the car progressively accelerates.
You only need to look at the Tekin and GM guys to see how wide a timing ramp they use. Starting the timing lower also gets rid of the kick when the timing starts I find.
Last edited by maxg123456; 06-01-2010 at 11:12 AM.
#414
Tech Adept
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 2
15 - 3
FDR - 6.70 (I run 7.20 with a 13.5)
The higher FDR should spool up the motor faster, giving you more torque. I don't think the SP V2 is as good as the V1 personally. (Which is also a Duo 1, so that makes sense, that you're not getting the same performance).
#415
I'd try
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 2
15 - 3
FDR - 6.70 (I run 7.20 with a 13.5)
The higher FDR should spool up the motor faster, giving you more torque. I don't think the SP V2 is as good as the V1 personally. (Which is also a Duo 1, so that makes sense, that you're not getting the same performance).
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 2
15 - 3
FDR - 6.70 (I run 7.20 with a 13.5)
The higher FDR should spool up the motor faster, giving you more torque. I don't think the SP V2 is as good as the V1 personally. (Which is also a Duo 1, so that makes sense, that you're not getting the same performance).
#416
Tech Adept
To be honest, indoors i've tried a lot out and the main thing that cools these motors down is the timing ramp. (Timing Punch).
First of all, i'd run about setting 4 on timing punch. If you're using 1 or 2 then that might explain your temp issues. I think if the car is punching straight to top speed and revving early that might be giving you temp issues.
I remember frying a SP V1 13.5 at Maritime because I geared it too high and it was screaming all the way down the straight. It sounded great but doing 70,000 on the sweeper and geared at 8.50 FDR is not good lol!
To give an idea about how timing isn't the killer of these motors, I used a 13.5 GM last thursday with advanced timing on the motor, but geared at 6.8, instead of 7.2, timing punch 5, turbo max and this 13.5 was as fast as most 10.5s out there, if not faster but it was strangely only 140F.
The week before I used the same motor with stock timing on the motor, Timing punch 2, geared at 7.2, one down from max turbo and the motor was 160F. Even though the motor had less timing and and less esc timing, the setting with much more overall timing was much easier to drive.
Try this at Maritime -
stock motor timing
FDR 7.00
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 3
15 - 5
The timing ramp would work out 3000 - 17700 before the turbo kicks in.
I'm using this exact setting next time myself.
Last edited by maxg123456; 06-01-2010 at 12:54 PM.
#417
LOL, it must sound like I know what i'm talking about! (I have no idea lol)
To be honest, indoors i've tried a lot out and the main thing that cools these motors down is the timing ramp. (Timing Punch).
First of all, i'd run about setting 4 on timing punch. If you're using 1 or 2 then that might explain your temp issues. I think if the car is punching straight to top speed and revving early that might be giving you temp issues.
I remember frying a SP V1 13.5 at Maritime because I geared it too high and it was screaming all the way down the straight. It sounded great but doing 70,000 on the sweeper and geared at 8.50 FDR is not good lol!
To give an idea about how timing isn't the killer of these motors, I used a 13.5 GM last thursday with advanced timing on the motor, but geared at 6.8, instead of 7.2, timing punch 5, turbo max and this 13.5 was as fast as most 10.5s out there, if not faster but it was strangely only 140F.
The week before I used the same motor with stock timing on the motor, Timing punch 2, geared at 7.2, one down from max turbo and the motor was 160F. Even though the motor had less timing and and less esc timing, the setting with much more overall timing was much easier to drive.
Try this at Maritime -
stock motor timing
FDR 7.00
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 3
15 - 5
The timing ramp would work out 3000 - 17700 before the turbo kicks in.
I'm using this exact setting next time myself.
To be honest, indoors i've tried a lot out and the main thing that cools these motors down is the timing ramp. (Timing Punch).
First of all, i'd run about setting 4 on timing punch. If you're using 1 or 2 then that might explain your temp issues. I think if the car is punching straight to top speed and revving early that might be giving you temp issues.
I remember frying a SP V1 13.5 at Maritime because I geared it too high and it was screaming all the way down the straight. It sounded great but doing 70,000 on the sweeper and geared at 8.50 FDR is not good lol!
To give an idea about how timing isn't the killer of these motors, I used a 13.5 GM last thursday with advanced timing on the motor, but geared at 6.8, instead of 7.2, timing punch 5, turbo max and this 13.5 was as fast as most 10.5s out there, if not faster but it was strangely only 140F.
The week before I used the same motor with stock timing on the motor, Timing punch 2, geared at 7.2, one down from max turbo and the motor was 160F. Even though the motor had less timing and and less esc timing, the setting with much more overall timing was much easier to drive.
Try this at Maritime -
stock motor timing
FDR 7.00
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 3
15 - 5
The timing ramp would work out 3000 - 17700 before the turbo kicks in.
I'm using this exact setting next time myself.
Most are having hassles in that they having the timing ramp up too fast and too early in the rpm range which leads to uneccessary heat.
#418
Tech Initiate
I have been running my 5.5T Xerun motor / 120A ESC for a week and they still work flawless with the supercharged stock software at default settings. The motor does get hot (can touch 3-4 seconds with my fingers) but it still hasn't died yet.
#419
I'd try
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 2
15 - 3
FDR - 6.70 (I run 7.20 with a 13.5)
The higher FDR should spool up the motor faster, giving you more torque. I don't think the SP V2 is as good as the V1 personally. (Which is also a Duo 1, so that makes sense, that you're not getting the same performance).
9 - 8
12 - 9
13 - 1
14 - 2
15 - 3
FDR - 6.70 (I run 7.20 with a 13.5)
The higher FDR should spool up the motor faster, giving you more torque. I don't think the SP V2 is as good as the V1 personally. (Which is also a Duo 1, so that makes sense, that you're not getting the same performance).
the V1 of the 17.5 from speedpassion was not roar legal and was updated to the V2/Duo 1
the speedpassion V2 17.5 and the Trinity Duo 1 have the same rotors and windings, only the can is different.
at our track, a few made a issue about the V1 motors having more winds or something and being cheater motors, they insisted on "roar approved" motors only, I had a big smile when I killed them even more with the roar V2 motor, it was faster then the V1
thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
#420
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
the V1 of the 17.5 from speedpassion was not roar legal and was updated to the V2/Duo 1
the speedpassion V2 17.5 and the Trinity Duo 1 have the same rotors and windings, only the can is different.
at our track, a few made a issue about the V1 motors having more winds or something and being cheater motors, they insisted on "roar approved" motors only, I had a big smile when I killed them even more with the roar V2 motor, it was faster then the V1
thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
the speedpassion V2 17.5 and the Trinity Duo 1 have the same rotors and windings, only the can is different.
at our track, a few made a issue about the V1 motors having more winds or something and being cheater motors, they insisted on "roar approved" motors only, I had a big smile when I killed them even more with the roar V2 motor, it was faster then the V1
thats my story and I'm sticking to it.