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Old 05-24-2010, 07:25 AM   #361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
Wow this xerun esc is the real deal. My word, its impressive. I had a few guys come upto me and ask what setting I had on the car, as it was a missile on a fast sweeper onto/and on the straight. I had the timing punch turned down a bit to -3 and the rest on full with a GM 13.5 motor (stock timing).

I think 1 car (which was a Tekin) could stay with me on the straight and he is a friend that likes to have everything on the limit of safety. Its incredible that this is a 60A xerun with 518 software costing under £70.00 with an LCD programmer, that matches a Tekin costing 3 times as much!

The only gripe was the brakes, but from high speed they're actually not bad. Its when I go slowly from tight corner to tight corner it lacks a lot.

I qualified 2nd in A. Not tons of people at the club meeting but in the final I pushed a bit harder and drove like a complete idiot. In the gaps where I didnt crash, I was faster than the leader, but by then I was already a lap behind due to my stupid 'go for it' driving.
Max if you set the reverse to 100% (don't need to enable it) this will give you more brakes than you could ever wish for, also remember to set the radio up at 100% then advance the Throttle throw to about 107% AND the Brakes to about 104%, the HW is notorious for not hitting end points unless set up this way. I manage to lock all four wheels last time I was at Maritime, car hit the floor it braked so hard, come see me if you're not too sure matey.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bee200sx View Post
Hey guys tossing up between getting speedpassion or hobbywing speedy. With the new supercharge software is there any difference between the two. If so which one to get. I was looking at the new speedpassion pro stock speedy (the adjustable timing one), or should i wait for the hobbywing one to come out.

Cheers
Well.......... If I were you I would go with the HW lol as it's half the price of the SAME SpeedPassion model !!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3 racer sc View Post
where can i go and up date to the new software on my speed passion lcd for the new hobby wing soft ware
http://www.hobbywing.com/english/downloadsm.asp?id=31

518 version is there ^^^

Hope it helps!!!!

Ran at West London yesterday first time out with a Fantom Ion2 (Trinity) 13.5 very quick but had terrible problems with heat, track temp hit 55 and motor came off at 184 think I am struggling with gearing / Settings with this one any one have any ideas where to gear the 13.5 with 518 and also some settings, I tried lowering the 15 and 12 but all that did (while lowering the temps to 150) was slow the car down.

Problem I was having was that 3 minutes (or so) into each run the motor went flat and it seemed there was no Turbo on it ended up full throttle all over the track. Hope I haven't cooked / Killed the brand new motor any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

TIA
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:48 AM   #362
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Is that motor new? Some times heat like that is a sign that:

1. The rotor is starting to slip.
2. The motor has a short
3. Something is wrong with the sensor system

I have a Novak 17.5 that also goes flat after several minutes of running. It's not overheating though. Don't know why it happens but I suspect is that it's #3, because if it was 1 or 2, I would probably see tons of heat.
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:06 AM   #363
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Max if you set the reverse to 100% (don't need to enable it) this will give you more brakes than you could ever wish for, also remember to set the radio up at 100% then advance the Throttle throw to about 107% AND the Brakes to about 104%, the HW is notorious for not hitting end points unless set up this way. I manage to lock all four wheels last time I was at Maritime, car hit the floor it braked so hard, come see me if you're not too sure matey.



TIA
Thanks mate. I had the reverse set to 100%, as recomended before and it was a bit better, but I still would like more. It really depends on what motor you have in terms of braking ability, I find.

Remember, i'm used to LRP type braking, which can even make a Novak stop within a few meters from flat out. The main thing is, the brakes from high speed are quite good, which is ok. Its when i'm going slower and then try to brake theres a lag and the brakes are def not as good as they are from high speed.

I'll try the EPA thing. Thanks for your advice. I might be there on Thursday. I'm really loving this esc. For the first time, i'm not reverting back to my LRP SPX, as this Xerun has the smoothness I want. I would say the Firmware creator, Michael is a genius.
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Old 05-24-2010, 10:08 AM   #364
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Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
Thanks mate. I had the reverse set to 100%, as recomended before and it was a bit better, but I still would like more. It really depends on what motor you have in terms of braking ability, I find.

Remember, i'm used to LRP type braking, which can even make a Novak stop within a few meters from flat out. The main thing is, the brakes from high speed are quite good, which is ok. Its when i'm going slower and then try to brake theres a lag and the brakes are def not as good as they are from high speed.

I'll try the EPA thing. Thanks for your advice. I might be there on Thursday. I'm really loving this esc. For the first time, i'm not reverting back to my LRP SPX, as this Xerun has the smoothness I want. I would say the Firmware creator, Michael is a genius.
Funny you mention that. I found the brakes to be lacking on LRP SXX SS during low speed, but good during high speed. The Xerun feels great both low and high speed. I run 100% brake and 100% reverse on esc and have transmitter set to 65%. I'm using Tekin 17.5 motor.
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:37 AM   #365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nietzbatik View Post
setting
1 1
2 1
3 4
4 9
5 3
6 1
7 2
8 1
9 8
12 9
13 5
14 3
15 1

Car Xray 009 FDR 6.8x long straight about 30mtrs

Make sure you use Cooler BL 11.5R motor like KingPower 11.5R..

Hope this help
thankz for the share. fyi, lm using team orion bl 11.5t motor. im gonna try it on this coming weekend.
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:43 AM   #366
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Originally Posted by RL.2002 View Post
thankz for the share. fyi, lm using team orion bl 11.5t motor. im gonna try it on this coming weekend.
if you using orion motor, try seting #15 to 2 <less heat>
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:03 AM   #367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Max if you set the reverse to 100% (don't need to enable it) this will give you more brakes than you could ever wish for, also remember to set the radio up at 100% then advance the Throttle throw to about 107% AND the Brakes to about 104%, the HW is notorious for not hitting end points unless set up this way. I manage to lock all four wheels last time I was at Maritime, car hit the floor it braked so hard, come see me if you're not too sure matey.



Well.......... If I were you I would go with the HW lol as it's half the price of the SAME SpeedPassion model !!!!!



http://www.hobbywing.com/english/downloadsm.asp?id=31

518 version is there ^^^

Hope it helps!!!!

Ran at West London yesterday first time out with a Fantom Ion2 (Trinity) 13.5 very quick but had terrible problems with heat, track temp hit 55 and motor came off at 184 think I am struggling with gearing / Settings with this one any one have any ideas where to gear the 13.5 with 518 and also some settings, I tried lowering the 15 and 12 but all that did (while lowering the temps to 150) was slow the car down.

Problem I was having was that 3 minutes (or so) into each run the motor went flat and it seemed there was no Turbo on it ended up full throttle all over the track. Hope I haven't cooked / Killed the brand new motor any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

last time i was there on 13.5 i had an fdr of 5.897 75/31 with 16t pulleys (2.4375)
4 max 9 max 12 max 13-3 14-3 15-2 also 15-3. but i was on 422. i ran 518 indoors on friday and didnt notice any difference between the two, except a little more heat, i put that down to slghtly different layout etc. but thinking about it now, for 13.5 422 seems better....................... anyone else?
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:12 AM   #368
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Originally Posted by g26er View Post
Funny you mention that. I found the brakes to be lacking on LRP SXX SS during low speed, but good during high speed. The Xerun feels great both low and high speed. I run 100% brake and 100% reverse on esc and have transmitter set to 65%. I'm using Tekin 17.5 motor.
I can understand the brakes being good with a Tekin, as they use a 12.5mm rotor. I tried a SP V1 13.5 with a 12.5mm rotor and it made a major difference on my Mamba Max Pro, so I will try soon with my GM.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:23 PM   #369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayal View Post
last time i was there on 13.5 i had an fdr of 5.897 75/31 with 16t pulleys (2.4375)
4 max 9 max 12 max 13-3 14-3 15-2 also 15-3. but i was on 422. i ran 518 indoors on friday and didnt notice any difference between the two, except a little more heat, i put that down to slghtly different layout etc. but thinking about it now, for 13.5 422 seems better....................... anyone else?

Thanks matey that's a huge help, think maybe 518 IS generating more heat than 422 but I was gearing initially around 7.44 and then moved down to 6.84 maybe am still 'thinking' 10.5 gearing here I think.
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Old 05-25-2010, 02:56 PM   #370
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Thanks matey that's a huge help, think maybe 518 IS generating more heat than 422 but I was gearing initially around 7.44 and then moved down to 6.84 maybe am still 'thinking' 10.5 gearing here I think.
Hi Si!

I ran 7.30 FDR on Sunday indoors, set on full turbo on the esc with timing punch turned down a tad and there was quite a lot to spare in the temps of the motor, but it was a new GM 13.5. Do you think Going lower on the FDR will cool the motor down more than the other direction, as I detonated a SP Feigo V1 motor on Thursday at 8.30 FDR with less aggressive esc settings!

Im going to do one notch higher timing on the 13.5 GM next time I run at Maritime, as I think it could take it with the esc settings on full. A 10.5 is no longer needed at Maritime
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:06 PM   #371
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Again i will repeat the importance of guys using the advice in the HW setttings document.
You cant just set the right setup it needs to dialed in just like you would setting up your chassis.
Maxed settings doesnt mean you going to be fast with out excessive heat, there are multiple factors that will be different between racers.
Maxg you probably cooked that motor due to undergearing at 8.5 gear ratio.
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:09 PM   #372
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Basic Starting Setups for Supercharger Software
These are all just starting points for you to further adjust and refine for each car, driving
style and track. These were developed by our team drivers around the world as a set of
basic ESC settings. The different actions the ESC can deliver require you to further tune
to your own tastes with the ultimate goal being lowest lap times. We recommend starting
with these settings, and adjusting after 10 timed laps, and judge by the lap times if you
need to go further in that direction, or the other way. No “extra timing” software is fully
automatic for every situation, so experiment with all the options while looking at lap
times to find what works best for you.
Starting from scratch:
1) Start with one of the slower FDR’s for your track size and motor wind.
2) Start with #14 off and #15 at value 9
3) For the first few runs:
A) The first thing to set is the RPM delay/gearing for the straight. Run the car and
adjust #13 to where the boost is kicking in where you want it, and you want to
gear it to make sure the car is still digging (accelerating) a the end of the straight.
You want it to where it just barely doesn’t top out.
B) #14 works together with #13. Adjust it up from zero one value at a time until it’s
making the Supercharger engage later than it was before – then back it down one
value.
C) Start making 10 lap runs and watch lap times. Adjust AMTS and DRRS to the
levels that gives best lap times
D) Now you can tune the punch (#15) for the infield. Leave it alone if you’ve got
enough rip already, or try the car one value at a time. This setting has a huge
influence on overall motor heat, so monitor temps constantly when going from
higher to lower values.
E) At this point, you should be set to go, or fine tune:
Fine tuning tips:
1) Different winds of motors are going to have different tolerance levels for overall
boost and punch. It’s easy to overboost a 13.5 at the max setting. Too much
advance will make the motor slower on the straight and have less torque just like
over gearing will. It will also dramatically increase motor heat just like over
gearing. Once you’ve completed the above, you can experiment with more overall
boost. You will most likely find a boost level that does NOT make for faster lap
times than the next one lower. That’s the motor’s breaking point for that
gear/boost/AMTS level. Back down the boost or the AMTSS to the next lower
setting.
2) Same process for punch – too much, and the motor will turn into a dog in the
infield – back the punch down to a higher setting, or decrease AMTS.
3) For large sweeping tracks where you can actually use a little boost in the infield,
experiment with #13 and 14 to find the right values to give you a little kick where
you want it, but NOT where you don’t want it.

WARNING:
Speed Passion Supercharger software is designed for most brands of stock motors which
have low natural timing advance on the motor itself, or allow the user to select a motor
advance level less than 10deg. The software works best when the ESC software alone
provides all or most of the timing advance for normal running, and extra advance at
higher RPMs to increase motor Kv and top speed.
Stock motors with very high natural advance levels (LRP X series, Ballistic, and possibly
others) may easily be "over advanced" to an extreme degree, show low speed and
power, and be damaged quickly when run with Supercharger software. Check with your
motor manufacturer for it's natural advance levels and extra advance suitability before
using with Supercharger ESC software.
Basic starting settings for 17.5 motor:
FDR: 6.0-6.5 Md/large tracks. 5.75-6.25 Very large tracks.
(raise FDR further for very high traction carpet, or very tight technical tracks)
1) 1
2) Personal preference
3) Personal preference
4) 8
DRRS works along with the Supercharger boost level setting. Higher DRRS (more
punch) is traded for reduced top speed. The bigger and more open your track, the less
DRRS you’ll want in order to get max top speed on the straight. The shorter and
tighter the track, you’ll want more DRRS to keep the punch up, but at the expense of
top end on the straight.
5) Personal Preference
6) Personal Preference
7) Personal preference – most use 1
8) Personal preference – most use 1
9) 7
Timing advance is a very critical setting that affects all parameters of performance. If
a motor is given “too much” advance, it will have poor punch, poor speed, and
overheat quickly. When it is given “just right” advance, it will have best top speed,
best punch, and will run cool. When it is given “lower than optimal” advance, it will
lack punch and top speed, and run cool. The higher the turn of motor, the higher the
“just right” advance is. 17.5t in most cases “likes” high advance, while mod motors
8.5t and lower will tolerate decreasingly lower advance levels the lower the turns of
motor. The load state of the motor also effects how much advance it “likes”. Under
heavy load (accelerating hard out of a slow corner) it “likes” lower advance. Running
under low load (high RPM down the straight) it “likes” higher advance. This is the
basic model for “extra advance” ESCs – allowing higher advance to be shown to the
motor during low load and high rpm states.

The AMTS setting is linked to the Supercharger setting in that a “total advance” is
shown to the motor when the Supercharger is engaged. That total advance is the sum
of the AMTS setting, the physical advance on the motor, and the Supercharger level
setting. Again, even though the motor is in the low load and high rpm state where it
“likes” high advance, the cumulative total of these three advance settings may be high
enough that the top speed is not optimal, and the motor is overheated.
Given the above, if you are not seeing the expected top speed performance, even
though it seems like the wrong way, the first thing to do is lower the physical motor
advance, or the AMTS setting so that the “just right” overall advance setting will
yield top speed.
AMTS is also in effect (combined with physical motor advance) when the
Supercharger is not active (low rpm/high load). Generally 17.5 “likes” a total of about
20deg in this state (depending on track surface grip and how tight the track is). But
please see the #15 setting for yet another timing advance linked option in the overall
chain of maximizing performance for the best understanding.
10) Personal preference
11) Place for future options – this setting does nothing right now.
12) 7
This is the overall Supercharger boost level. As above in the AMTS section, this is a
combination of motor, AMTS, and Supercharger settings, so set them as a team for
the desired top speed operation, and use #15 along with them to optimize punch.
13) Personal preference/gearing dependent. Most team testers have settled on setting
1, but use the setup procedures guide above to find the best setting for your track
size and driving style.
14) Again, personal preference/gearing dependent. Use the setup procedures to find
the best setting for your track. Most of the team drivers fall between setting 2 and
4 so far
15) 3
This is the final setting controlling advance before the Supercharger engages. As
we’ve seen above, high AMTS settings may be useful to maximize top speed, but
most testers have found a lack of punch when top speed settings are optimized. This
setting artificially retards the AMTS setting at high load/low RPM states to help the
motor stay cool, and gain back punch from being “over advanced”. The higher the
setting #, the less advance is being shown to the motor before the Supercharger
engages, and therefore the cooler the motor will run, and likely to have more punch as
well.
Basic starting settings for 13.5 motor:
FDR: 6.75-7.5 Md/large tracks. 6.25-7.0 Very large tracks.
(raise FDR further for very high traction carpet, or very tight technical tracks)
1) 1
2) Personal preference
3) Personal preference
4) 7

DRRS works along with the Supercharger boost level setting. Higher DRRS (more
punch) is traded for reduced top speed. The bigger and more open your track, the less
DRRS you’ll want in order to get max top speed on the straight. The shorter and
tighter the track, you’ll want more DRRS to keep the punch up, but at the expense of
top end on the straight.
5) Personal Preference
6) Personal Preference
7) Personal preference – most use 1
8) Personal preference – most use 1
9) 6
Timing advance is a very critical setting that affects all parameters of performance. If
a motor is given “too much” advance, it will have poor punch, poor speed, and
overheat quickly. When it is given “just right” advance, it will have best top speed,
best punch, and will run cool. When it is given “lower than optimal” advance, it will
lack punch and top speed, and run cool. The higher the turn of motor, the higher the
“just right” advance is. 13.5t in most cases “likes” medium/high advance, while mod
motors 8.5t and lower will tolerate decreasingly lower advance levels the lower the
turns of motor. The load state of the motor also effects how much advance it “likes”.
Under heavy load (accelerating hard out of a slow corner) it “likes” lower advance.
Running under low load (high RPM down the straight) it “likes” higher advance. This
is the basic model for “extra advance” ESCs – allowing higher advance to be shown
to the motor during low load and high rpm states.
The AMTS setting is linked to the Supercharger setting in that a “total advance” is
shown to the motor when the Supercharger is engaged. That total advance is the sum
of the AMTS setting, the physical advance on the motor, and the Supercharger level
setting. Again, even though the motor is in the low load and high rpm state where it
“likes” high advance, the cumulative total of these three advance settings may be high
enough that the top speed is not optimal, and the motor is overheated.
Given the above, if you are not seeing the expected top speed performance, even
though it seems like the wrong way, the first thing to do is lower the physical motor
advance, or the AMTS setting so that the “just right” overall advance setting will
yield top speed.
AMTS is also in effect (combined with physical motor advance) when the
Supercharger is not active (low rpm/high load). Generally 13.5 “likes” a total of about
15deg in this state (depending on track surface grip and how tight the track is). But
please see the #15 setting for yet another timing advance linked option in the overall
chain of maximizing performance for the best understanding.
10) Personal preference
11) Place for future options – this setting does nothing right now.
12) 7
This is the overall Supercharger boost level. As above in the AMTS section, this is a
combination of motor, AMTS, and Supercharger settings, so set them as a team for
the desired top speed operation, and use #15 along with them to optimize punch.
13) Personal preference/gearing dependent. Most team testers have settled on setting
1, but use the setup procedures guide above to find the best setting for your track
size and driving style.
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:11 PM   #373
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14) Again, personal preference/gearing dependent. Use the setup procedures to find
the best setting for your track. Most of the team drivers fall between setting 2 and
4 so far
15) 4
This is the final setting controlling advance before the Supercharger engages. As we’ve
seen above, high AMTS settings may be useful to maximize top speed, but most testers
have found a lack of punch when top speed settings are optimized. This setting artificially
retards the AMTS setting at high load/low RPM states to help the motor stay cool, and
gain back punch from being “over advanced”. The higher the setting #, the less advance
is being shown to the motor before the Supercharger engages, and therefore the cooler the
motor will run, and likely to have more punch as well.
Basic starting settings for 10.5 motor:
FDR: 7.75-8.75 Md/large tracks. 7.0-8.0 Very large tracks.
(raise FDR further for very high traction carpet, or very tight technical tracks)
1) 1
2) Personal preference
3) Personal preference
4) 7
DRRS works along with the Supercharger boost level setting. Higher DRRS (more
punch) is traded for reduced top speed. The bigger and more open your track, the less
DRRS you’ll want in order to get max top speed on the straight. The shorter and
tighter the track, you’ll want more DRRS to keep the punch up, but at the expense of
top end on the straight.
5) Personal Preference
6) Personal Preference
7) Personal preference – most use 1
8) Personal preference – most use 1
9) 4
Timing advance is a very critical setting that affects all parameters of performance. If
a motor is given “too much” advance, it will have poor punch, poor speed, and
overheat quickly. When it is given “just right” advance, it will have best top speed,
best punch, and will run cool. When it is given “lower than optimal” advance, it will
lack punch and top speed, and run cool. The higher the turn of motor, the higher the
“just right” advance is. 10.5t in most cases “likes” medium advance, while mod
motors 8.5t and lower will tolerate decreasingly lower advance levels the lower the
turns of motor. The load state of the motor also effects how much advance it “likes”.
Under heavy load (accelerating hard out of a slow corner) it “likes” lower advance.
Running under low load (high RPM down the straight) it “likes” higher advance. This
is the basic model for “extra advance” ESCs – allowing higher advance to be shown
to the motor during low load and high rpm states.
The AMTS setting is linked to the Supercharger setting in that a “total advance” is
shown to the motor when the Supercharger is engaged. That total advance is the sum
of the AMTS setting, the physical advance on the motor, and the Supercharger level setting.
Again, even though the motor is in the low load and high rpm state where it
“likes” high advance, the cumulative total of these three advance settings may be high
enough that the top speed is not optimal, and the motor is overheated.
Given the above, if you are not seeing the expected top speed performance, even
though it seems like the wrong way, the first thing to do is lower the physical motor
advance, or the AMTS setting so that the “just right” overall advance setting will yield top speed.
AMTS is also in effect (combined with physical motor advance) when the
Supercharger is not active (low rpm/high load). Generally 10.5 “likes” a total of about
10deg in this state (depending on track surface grip and how tight the track is). But
please see the #15 setting for yet another timing advance linked option in the overall
chain of maximizing performance for the best understanding.
10) Personal preference
11) Place for future options – this setting does nothing right now.
12) 3
This is the overall Supercharger boost level. As above in the AMTS section, this is a
combination of motor, AMTS, and Supercharger settings, so set them as a team for
the desired top speed operation, and use #15 along with them to optimize punch.
13) Personal preference/gearing dependent. Most team testers have settled on setting
1, but use the setup procedures guide above to find the best setting for your track
size and driving style.
14) Again, personal preference/gearing dependent. Use the setup procedures to find
the best setting for your track. Most of the team drivers fall between setting 2 and
4 so far
15) 6
This is the final setting controlling advance before the Supercharger engages. As we’ve
seen above, high AMTS settings may be useful to maximize top speed, but most testers
have found a lack of punch when top speed settings are optimized. This setting artificially
retards the AMTS setting at high load/low RPM states to help the motor stay cool, and
gain back punch from being “over advanced”. The higher the setting #, the less advance
is being shown to the motor before the Supercharger engages, and therefore the cooler the
motor will run, and likely to have more punch as well.
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Old 05-26-2010, 12:51 AM   #374
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Very nice work razzor.Thanks.
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:29 AM   #375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Born2Run View Post
Very nice work razzor.Thanks.
Yep seconded. Is Interesting to read some things I didn't know like how option 15 works. (As this is a setting that worked very well to calm the car down on the infield for me.).

Last edited by maxg123456; 05-26-2010 at 03:19 AM.
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