R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Radio and Electronics

Like Tree5Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-21-2011, 08:04 PM   #3286
Tech Addict
 
cherry2blost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: London
Posts: 713
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by drsmooth View Post
I've never had to flash my 120a esc twice! It took the 110119 on the first time as far as I know. Ran it yesterday on a smallish carpet track against 17.5s. My 21.5 had no problem running them down or pulling away from them. Now there's talk of making the 21.5 class a "no timing" class. That's ok! I'll just run my 21.5 with the 17.5s. Shouldn't be a problem!
Oh, I almost forgot. I thought I was going to burn up my motor & esc yesterday. The motor come of at 105F & the esc was 85F.
OH THE HUMANITY!
Told you it was a 'just in case' thing don't do it it's up to you it's just I have used these ESC's for an awful long time and these are my personal opinions for mr the extra time involved is a small price to pay for constant fault free useage.
__________________
Tamiya TA05 Ver II, Hobbywing 13.5T, KO PROPO PDS-2501 ICS, Eagle Racing 6000 65C LiPo, Hobbywing XTREME STOCK 518/213) Sanwa/Airtronics MT4 2.4G Radio.
www.racersinexile.org.uk | 'Official Certified' UK/Euro Importer for the Hobbywing XERUN Series Equipment We ship the world !!!| Quote code 'cherry' for 10% discount on our Web Store.
cherry2blost is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 03:06 AM   #3287
Tech Regular
 
drsmooth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 498
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

[QUOTE=irgo;8689253]if you had error message when flashing please do it againQUOTE]

I did have the error message the first try at the download, and reflashed it again. If that's what everyone means when they say to "flash it twice", then I had to do it twice too. I always thought flashing it twice meant to do two successful downloads.
__________________
Till next time.......
KEEP ON RACING!
drsmooth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 07:21 AM   #3288
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: suffolk uk
Posts: 49
Default Esc going into sensorless mode

Last at racing I experience the esc going onto a sensorless state twice on the start grid, in practice the car was fine but when I started a racing using full throttle the car when into this mode whitch I then had to switch the car on and of and all was fine.

I have change the sensor lead, strip motor and cleaned.

One thing I have notice for some reason I'd set the volt cut off at 3.2v per cell would this have cause this to happen.
Lrp 5900 50c ten charges old and running 1224 software and Sp v3 13.5.
All opinions welcome
Thanks matt
matt prigmore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 08:06 AM   #3289
Tech Regular
 
terryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 343
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt prigmore View Post
Last at racing I experience the esc going onto a sensorless state twice on the start grid, in practice the car was fine but when I started a racing using full throttle the car when into this mode whitch I then had to switch the car on and of and all was fine.

I have change the sensor lead, strip motor and cleaned.

One thing I have notice for some reason I'd set the volt cut off at 3.2v per cell would this have cause this to happen.
Lrp 5900 50c ten charges old and running 1224 software and Sp v3 13.5.
All opinions welcome
Thanks matt
I always set the cutoff to 3.2v and have never had any issues, even after a practice run where I put over 4800mah back in, I was out for a while
terryh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 08:22 AM   #3290
M7H
Tech Elite
 
M7H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,193
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Think of it as a 'Just in case' attitude.......
And flashing it 3 times or 4, 5, 6... 10?
Just in case, to be really sure?...
Or is this to much?
__________________
Serpent
M7H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 08:59 AM   #3291
Tech Fanatic
 
irgo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 893
Default Hobbywing SuperCharge 3rd Generation update 110119

Latest New Hobbywing till 3rd Generation 2010
-------------------------------

Boost Start RPM range

1000RPM
2000RPM
3000RPM
4000RPM
4500RPM ( available at Previous version )
5000RPM
6000RPM
7000RPM
7500RPM ( available at Previous Version )
8000RPM
9000RPM
10000RPM
10500RPM ( available at Previous version )
11000RPM
12000RPM
13000RPM
13500RPM ( available at previous version )
14000RPM
15000RPM
17000RPM sadly it's only (detected at V3.0_110119MOD) when using 13.5t
19000RPM sadly it's only (detected at V3.0_110119MOD) when using 11.5t


60 Degree Timing by:
Boost 0~60deg
Turbo/SuperCharge 0~40deg

Boost Acceleration
50rpm/deg~750rpm/deg (50rpm Increment option)
and
900rpm/deg (available at V3.0_101224)


Turbo Open Delay 0.1sec~0.8sec

Turbo Open Time
1.5deg/0.1sec (available at V3.0_101224,HW V3.0_110105)
3deg/0.1sec
6deg/0.1sec
9deg/0.1sec (available at V3.0_101224)
12deg/0.1sec
18deg/0.1sec
24deg/0.1sec
Fastest


Been Tested the Fact on the Track with many Kit. :-)
--------------------------------------------------------------
__________________
Quark Force
irgo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 10:36 AM   #3292
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,235
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by irgo View Post
Latest New Hobbywing till 3rd Generation 2010
-------------------------------

Boost Start RPM range

1000RPM
2000RPM
3000RPM
4000RPM
4500RPM ( available at Previous version )
5000RPM
6000RPM
7000RPM
7500RPM ( available at Previous Version )
8000RPM
9000RPM
10000RPM
10500RPM ( available at Previous version )
11000RPM
12000RPM
13000RPM
13500RPM ( available at previous version )
14000RPM
15000RPM
17000RPM sadly it's only (detected at V3.0_110119MOD) when using 13.5t
19000RPM sadly it's only (detected at V3.0_110119MOD) when using 11.5t


60 Degree Timing by:
Boost 0~60deg
Turbo/SuperCharge 0~40deg

Boost Acceleration
50rpm/deg~750rpm/deg (50rpm Increment option)
and
900rpm/deg (available at V3.0_101224)


Turbo Open Delay 0.1sec~0.8sec

Turbo Open Time
1.5deg/0.1sec (available at V3.0_101224,HW V3.0_110105)
3deg/0.1sec
6deg/0.1sec
9deg/0.1sec (available at V3.0_101224)
12deg/0.1sec
18deg/0.1sec
24deg/0.1sec
Fastest


Been Tested the Fact on the Track with many Kit. :-)
--------------------------------------------------------------
Snore, just get out there and run it!
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | Hobbywing |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 10:50 AM   #3293
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Dunmow, Essex, UK
Posts: 5
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt prigmore View Post
Last at racing I experience the esc going onto a sensorless state twice on the start grid, in practice the car was fine but when I started a racing using full throttle the car when into this mode whitch I then had to switch the car on and of and all was fine.

I have change the sensor lead, strip motor and cleaned.

One thing I have notice for some reason I'd set the volt cut off at 3.2v per cell would this have cause this to happen.
Lrp 5900 50c ten charges old and running 1224 software and Sp v3 13.5.
All opinions welcome
Thanks matt
Worth checking the motor timing hasn't slipped?? My SP V3 moved when I had a heavy impact while racing and it felt like it was running sensorless. I think I have read on here somewhere that the endbell set to 0 degrees is equivalent to retarding the timing!!
It is only the pressure of the rubber gasket inside the endbell holding the sensor board in place.
stevebaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 10:53 AM   #3294
Tech Adept
 
Mitch-e4fs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 132
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt prigmore View Post
Last at racing I experience the esc going onto a sensorless state twice on the start grid, in practice the car was fine but when I started a racing using full throttle the car when into this mode whitch I then had to switch the car on and of and all was fine.

I have change the sensor lead, strip motor and cleaned.

One thing I have notice for some reason I'd set the volt cut off at 3.2v per cell would this have cause this to happen.
Lrp 5900 50c ten charges old and running 1224 software and Sp v3 13.5.
All opinions welcome
Thanks matt
Is it a 2.0 or 2.1? I had the same problem with my 2.0 so I changed to an xtreme stock and have had no problems so far.
Mitch-e4fs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 12:03 PM   #3295
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: suffolk uk
Posts: 49
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch-e4fs View Post
Is it a 2.0 or 2.1? I had the same problem with my 2.0 so I changed to an xtreme stock and have had no problems so far.
I'm running a Sp prostock 2.1, I'm going to check the car and motor avian and see what I find.
matt prigmore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 12:18 PM   #3296
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 38
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt prigmore View Post
Last at racing I experience the esc going onto a sensorless state twice on the start grid, in practice the car was fine but when I started a racing using full throttle the car when into this mode whitch I then had to switch the car on and of and all was fine.

I have change the sensor lead, strip motor and cleaned.
I've been having exactly the same problem with a SP GT2.0 LPF. I know it isn't a problem with the motor or sensor cable as I have tried two different motors and two different sensor cables with it and all of them work when connected to my trusty Novak GTB. I assumed that the speedo was just broken so picked up an Xtreme stock, however there seem to be a number of people having the exact same problem on the SP thread to, but nobody seems to have an answer. I have reflashed the 2-in-1 box more than twice, and the same with the esc. If anyone on here has any ideas that would be a great help.

Ben
Rocking Donkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 12:26 PM   #3297
Tech Addict
 
cherry2blost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: London
Posts: 713
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocking Donkey View Post
I've been having exactly the same problem with a SP GT2.0 LPF. I know it isn't a problem with the motor or sensor cable as I have tried two different motors and two different sensor cables with it and all of them work when connected to my trusty Novak GTB. I assumed that the speedo was just broken so picked up an Xtreme stock, however there seem to be a number of people having the exact same problem on the SP thread to, but nobody seems to have an answer. I have reflashed the 2-in-1 box more than twice, and the same with the esc. If anyone on here has any ideas that would be a great help.

Ben
There were some issues with the SP sensor boards in earlier posts on the SP thread, people were having to replace them as they were blowing, also remember if you run a motor up to full revs unloaded you run the risk of blowing the sensor board on ANY motor.
__________________
Tamiya TA05 Ver II, Hobbywing 13.5T, KO PROPO PDS-2501 ICS, Eagle Racing 6000 65C LiPo, Hobbywing XTREME STOCK 518/213) Sanwa/Airtronics MT4 2.4G Radio.
www.racersinexile.org.uk | 'Official Certified' UK/Euro Importer for the Hobbywing XERUN Series Equipment We ship the world !!!| Quote code 'cherry' for 10% discount on our Web Store.
cherry2blost is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 01:26 PM   #3298
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 237
Default

Can anyone shed any light on my problem i had on sunday racing. First race the car was alot slower than usual, e.g no boost/ timing advance, So i though maybe its the sensor lead, changed the lead and cleaned the motor out. Also put a better battery in just incase it was that, was fine for 1/2 a lap then went slow again, checked the lights on the esc and it flashes green in neutral, I believe this is overheat warning light, but it cant be too hot as only done half a lap.lol. Any ideas what would cause this?? Hoping its not the esc as its only 5 months old
scytherat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 01:43 PM   #3299
Tech Regular
 
whoopass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 295
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scytherat View Post
Can anyone shed any light on my problem i had on sunday racing. First race the car was alot slower than usual, e.g no boost/ timing advance, So i though maybe its the sensor lead, changed the lead and cleaned the motor out. Also put a better battery in just incase it was that, was fine for 1/2 a lap then went slow again, checked the lights on the esc and it flashes green in neutral, I believe this is overheat warning light, but it cant be too hot as only done half a lap.lol. Any ideas what would cause this?? Hoping its not the esc as its only 5 months old
what motor? it is a sensor problem, not necessarily a lead problem. sometimes the sensor board shorts on the can. well it does with the corally red motor anyways....
whoopass is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 02:02 PM   #3300
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 237
Default

Its a Nosram Storm Evo 10.5 X11. Ive been running this motor on the xtreme since i bought the esc and its always been fine. Maybe the motors dead then!
scytherat is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:26 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net