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Old 02-16-2011, 02:53 AM   #3136
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Question,
What is the problem of running the ESC without the capacitor caps?
Just curious...
Capacitors help against current ripples. When there is a dip the cap helps to keep the current up. All manufacturs say a cap is needed for a propper function of the esc. It cost nothing so i would not skimp leaving it off.
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:04 AM   #3137
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Capacitors help against current ripples. When there is a dip the cap helps to keep the current up. All manufacturs say a cap is needed for a propper function of the esc. It cost nothing so i would not skimp leaving it off.
Agree, no reason not too run it really. Just don't solder it to a motor connector instead of the power connector... a sure fire way to blow the BEC (it's called experience!)

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Old 02-16-2011, 03:06 AM   #3138
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Question,
What is the problem of running the ESC without the capacitor caps?
Just curious...
Hi just had a ustomer return a 'blown' xtreme stock to us, turned out the battery had been reverse connected and the power cap blew bigtime, however the ESC was fine one can assume it adds another layer of protection into the ESC also.

Word for the wise WE will not be warranting against units run WITHOUT Caps, they are in the box for a reason.

Rant mode off
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:26 AM   #3139
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A cap is basicly a special kind of battery with a very high discharge and charge rate but it can't hold the current like a normal battery can. Hence, it helps against very fast current ripples as it discharges itself instantly to fil in the ripples and charges itself also instantly for the next riple.
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:33 AM   #3140
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Been running the just stock speedo with the inex13.5 motor in my mardave for the last 3 weeks. All I can say is its nothing short of stunning. It even pops wheelies! A great speedo that we are going to run a series for at our club, to have the fairest form of racing possible. We are going to use the hw motors of both sensored and sensorless, and also 1s and 2s lipos and 4cell SUB C.
Look us up HRCC/RUGRACERS.
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:35 AM   #3141
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Been running the just stock speedo with the inex13.5 motor in my mardave for the last 3 weeks. All I can say is its nothing short of stunning. It even pops wheelies! A great speedo that we are going to run a series for at our club, to have the fairest form of racing possible. We are going to use the hw motors of both sensored and sensorless, and also 1s and 2s lipos and 4cell SUB C.
Look us up HRCC/RUGRACERS.
Am happy to be associated / involved Al hopefully we can push this class forward again. (lol at my 5.5T with Boosted Mod software, should be a rocket in a 'Dave)
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:56 AM   #3142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irgo View Post
No Problem when using with today Batteries,
it will help the most when using Weak Sub-C.
Really, the capacity is just a few uF, thats not enough to give power to a motor!?....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
Capacitors help against current ripples.
That's the reason I believe.

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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Agree, no reason not too run it really.
I didn't ask advise if I should run it or not , just want to know exactly what they do!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Hi just had a ustomer return a 'blown' xtreme stock to us, turned out the battery had been reverse connected and the power cap blew bigtime, however the ESC was fine one can assume it adds another layer of protection into the ESC also.
Don't be afraid, I run mine with cap on.

Just want to know, because somebody I know runs without them, and without problems according to him.

I believe the caps are (as 2wdrive mentioned) to get rid of the ripples and sparks, the ESC feeds back to the battery, which might damage the BEC, or even your electronics...

Anyone?
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:58 AM   #3143
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my mate accidently did the same thing with his 60A hobbywing......lucky the cap popped before the esc........unlike the tekin i blew....one second of madness.....lesson learned.....i use hobbywing/speedpassion escs now....and deans plugs instead of the corally type twist connectors....
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:01 AM   #3144
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Default Dual Boost

what if having Dual Boost Before the Turbo?
for a better curved?
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:59 AM   #3145
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Ummm, despite what you think there...adding timing low down will only take away torque, not increase it!
It comes back to the points made a while ago, that the key point for setting boost is, IMO, the rpm the motor will see on the slowest corner of the track... taking your settings, and assuming an FDR of 5.0FDR (I've no idea what to gear a 17.5 at, so taking a punt)... and your starting the boost ramp at 1.5mph!

I very very much doubt your going that slow around the track at any point, so all your doing is giving the motor timing when it's not needed... i.e. at the bottom of the rev-range when you want the torque! That's probably why the motor feels dead out the corners.

I would seriously look at raising that boost start rpm, say more towards 5000.

My second point... your using 60deg of boost, with a ramp of 750rpm/, right?
Well, I can 100% tell you now, you are not using all that boost, unless you can get a 17.5 to go over 60mph. With those settings, I'd be suprised if your using more than 35 of the boost timing, simply as motor won't ever get to the maximum rpm.

Suffice to say a, umm, reassessment of your settings might be in order! Bringing the start rpm up, and the ramp rate shorter will only give more power. You'll gain more torque at the bottom, and more top end as there will be more timing in use in the right place on the rev range.

Again, here's a link to the speed chart I've been using... THard.co.uk Speedo setting chart, you can pretty easily see the difference by playing around with the numbers.

HiH
Ed
Thx, this will be very useful.

Small request
Will it be pssible to do one for us metric guys in kmp/h please.

And will it make a difference to the results if we put in the spur/pinion size in 48 pitch?
I am guessing there will be no difference?
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:27 AM   #3146
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Just want to know, because somebody I know runs without them, and without problems according to him.

I believe the caps are (as 2wdrive mentioned) to get rid of the ripples and sparks, the ESC feeds back to the battery, which might damage the BEC, or even your electronics...

Anyone?
Is that the same person who sawed the solder posts off his tekin? e.g. your main rival?

People do all kinds of crazy stuff. Doesn't mean it is good. They might not get a problem now but who knows for how long that will be. Better be safe. It is there for a reason.

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Originally Posted by blade072 View Post
my mate accidently did the same thing with his 60A hobbywing......lucky the cap popped before the esc........unlike the tekin i blew....one second of madness.....lesson learned.....i use hobbywing/speedpassion escs now....and deans plugs instead of the corally type twist connectors....
I blew a cap ones cause of wrong red and black wires connection. Didn't damage the tekin (as far as i know) it still runs great. I gues sometimes you have to have a little luck.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:33 AM   #3147
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Is that the same person who sawed the solder posts off his tekin? e.g. your main rival?
Haha, no it's not Robert...
Oops have to go, that late already!?, off to the track I am!....
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:20 AM   #3148
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i found something,..
after previously found by someone on this thread,
with the boost Acceleration at 50rpm/Deg
as the method i was telling about how the noise come from 50rpm
fluctuation, was alright.

Then i started to investigate more deeper

Firmware that i tested again is :
V3.0_101224Stock
V3.0_110108Stock
V3.0_110119Stock
Those 3rd Generation Firmware had no Problem on the cases of 50rpm/Deg
noise, But, i found something is very wrong.

as i was always asking about the RPM Firmware Log, because of it's necessary need.

The Boost Start RPM, didn't working Correctly,
i have been investigate between all Start RPM 1000rpm~15000rpm.

It seem that All Started at always 1000RPM or the Lowest Boost Start,
The timing is active at that point, no matter we change to 15000rpm, it will always start at 1000rpm.

The result is All 3rd Generation Firmware RPM Boost Started too early all the time.

The difference Between the V3.0_110119Stock with (V3.0_110108Stock and V3.0_101224Stock)
is where the lower RPM Start.

But all of them had fail the Boost Start RPM.
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Last edited by irgo; 02-16-2011 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:40 AM   #3149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irgo View Post
i found something,..
after previously found by someone on this thread,
with the boost Acceleration at 50rpm/Deg
as the method i was telling about how the noise come from 50rpm
fluctuation, was alright.

Then i started to investigate more deeper

Firmware that i tested again is :
V3.0_101224Stock
V3.0_110108Stock
V3.0_110119Stock
Those 3rd Generation Firmware had no Problem on the cases of 50rpm/Deg
noise, But, i found something is very wrong.

as i was always asking about the RPM Firmware Log, because of it's necessary need.

The Boost Start RPM, didn't working Correctly,
i have been investigate between all Start RPM 1000rpm~15000rpm.

It seem that All Started at always 1000RPM or the Lowest Boost Start,
The timing is active at that point, no matter we change to 15000rpm, it will always start at 1000rpm.

The result is All 3rd Generation Firmware Started too early all the time.

The difference Between the V3.0_110119Stock with (V3.0_110108Stock and V3.0_101224Stock)
is where the lower RPM Start.

But all of them had fail the Boost Start RPM.
This sounds like the problem I was having. The boost would come on the very second I pulled the trigger. If I recalibrated the ESC, it would be normal, but would go back to being "broken" then next time the ESC was turned off/on.
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:28 PM   #3150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irgo View Post
i found something,..
after previously found by someone on this thread,
with the boost Acceleration at 50rpm/Deg
as the method i was telling about how the noise come from 50rpm
fluctuation, was alright.

Then i started to investigate more deeper

Firmware that i tested again is :
V3.0_101224Stock
V3.0_110108Stock
V3.0_110119Stock
Those 3rd Generation Firmware had no Problem on the cases of 50rpm/Deg
noise, But, i found something is very wrong.

as i was always asking about the RPM Firmware Log, because of it's necessary need.

The Boost Start RPM, didn't working Correctly,
i have been investigate between all Start RPM 1000rpm~15000rpm.

It seem that All Started at always 1000RPM or the Lowest Boost Start,
The timing is active at that point, no matter we change to 15000rpm, it will always start at 1000rpm.

The result is All 3rd Generation Firmware RPM Boost Started too early all the time.

The difference Between the V3.0_110119Stock with (V3.0_110108Stock and V3.0_101224Stock)
is where the lower RPM Start.

But all of them had fail the Boost Start RPM.
*grumpy mode on*

I would like to hear an official comment from Hobbywing on this.

If, as irgo suggests, the boost in the latest generation of software is NOT ramping from the chosen RPM level then there is little wonder that people are getting disappointing results on the bottom end!

With three revisions in a matter of weeks already, it seems that the new software has been rushed out. I didn't download it to be a beta tester...

*grumpy mode off*
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