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Old 04-29-2010, 03:22 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by dfiantii View Post
I suppose it can go either way since the XERUN guys put SP software on their ESC, but I am sure the SP guys will say stick to SP software on your esc.
Its all Hobbywing software guys created by michael who is a real genious at the hobbywing tech support facility and factory in shenzhen. china
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbywing View Post
....
Try it, and Trust it! (TNT ?! Yes!!! )

Let's enjoy the fastest speeeeeeeeed!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaPeRo View Post
HW motors can run at 120K rpm without grenading???
Hmmm... coincidence?!!!!

We will see!!!!
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:29 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by steliosh View Post
Hmmm... coincidence?!!!!

We will see!!!!
Michael the software designer is 100% confident with the software and so am i .There are other things discussed but i just cannot say anythig for the time being but many things to come .
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:30 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by steliosh View Post
Hmmm... coincidence?!!!!

We will see!!!!
Nothing lasts forever but if your stupid enough not to follow instructions you will kill anything no matter what .The problem in the past with alot of the Oem stuff was that the brand name would say its 120 amp but it can handle 200 amp .now that to me is false info and it is really stupid .follow instructions and nothing will go wrong nothing more said.

It it says 120 amp that is the peak the burst current is different all together .

if you use 11.5T ,you can try this setting :

9=7
12=8 or 9
13=4
14=5
15=4

FDR : 6.4

if you use 10.5 ,you can try this setting:

9=6
12=7 or 8
13=4
14=5
15=4

FDR : 6.4

if your using 13.5T you can try this setting

9=8
12=8-9
13=4
14=5
15=4

just some setup ideas
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:44 AM   #20
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Can anyone tell me if you can use the Speed passion LCD programming box to program the Xerun 120amp ESC?
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:54 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by snowman_evil View Post
Can anyone tell me if you can use the Speed passion LCD programming box to program the Xerun 120amp ESC?
same box you can use it
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Old 04-29-2010, 06:54 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Its all Hobbywing software guys created by michael who is a real genious at the hobbywing tech support facility and factory in shenzhen. china
Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Michael the software designer is 100% confident with the software and so am i .There are other things discussed but i just cannot say anythig for the time being but many things to come .
Thanks for great guy
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:20 AM   #23
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Has anyone used the new software with a 17.5. I have been playing around with the SP version for a bit and am finding it hard to get working.

I've installed this new version and testing it on the bench its sounds dead with no apparent rip that everyone seems to be raving about

I feel I have done some drastically wrong with the installation, any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-29-2010, 09:22 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eceer View Post
Has anyone used the new software with a 17.5. I have been playing around with the SP version for a bit and am finding it hard to get working.

I've installed this new version and testing it on the bench its sounds dead with no apparent rip that everyone seems to be raving about

I feel I have done some drastically wrong with the installation, any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
One common solution is to load the firmware twice, or load the new one, roll back to an old one, then load the new one again. This worked for me and a lot of other people. If you already did that, then I have no idea.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:11 AM   #25
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Tried today the new FM 422 and I must congratulate for the excellent work done by Hobbywing now on par with Tekin both in speed and acceleration with optimum temperatures of the engine.
I have tested various motor and SS Novak Ballistic pro, pro-GM and 17.5 Feigao all with good results: excellent performances by everyone.
We did a comparison test with a friend with Tekin and the benefits were actually identical.
Consider that with 17.5 I was much faster than across the Track to another friend of mine with Speedpassion 2.1 (with standard FM) and 10.5.

Thanks Hobbywing
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:15 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Nothing lasts forever but if your stupid enough not to follow instructions you will kill anything no matter what .The problem in the past with alot of the Oem stuff was that the brand name would say its 120 amp but it can handle 200 amp .now that to me is false info and it is really stupid .follow instructions and nothing will go wrong nothing more said.

It it says 120 amp that is the peak the burst current is different all together .

if you use 11.5T ,you can try this setting :

9=7
12=8 or 9
13=4
14=5
15=4

FDR : 6.4

if you use 10.5 ,you can try this setting:

9=6
12=7 or 8
13=4
14=5
15=4

FDR : 6.4

if your using 13.5T you can try this setting

9=8
12=8-9
13=4
14=5
15=4

just some setup ideas
You don't need to flame me, it was a only a joke. A coincidence really... HW said "TNT" and then the "grenading" comment, it was really something so appropriately comic! I have PAID for my equipment, so I'm allowed to point to a good joke, when I see one!

Anyway, back to business:
I tested briefly the newest SW with mixed results.
First of all, I set it up as per the HW PDF recommendations, that is:
9. Option 8
12. Option 7
13. Option 3
14. Option 5
15. Option 2

I didn't have your settings with me, at the track, so I went on by the pdf...

I remind that I run a 1/5 motorcycle with Xerun 60A and Nosram 13.5T sensored, geared in the longish (as I already wrote in the other thread).

Well... At first I did a medium throttle warm up lap, it all went fine, then on the main straight (60m plus...) I open the throttle fully and the bike wheelied to God and tumbled! It caught me by surprise, to be honest! I didn't expect it to do so with a "humble" 13.5T!!!! I turned around and started running the main straight up and down, doing wheelies! It was huge fun! Anyway, I remembered why I went to the track (there were no... spectators, as well!) so I started lapping...

At one time, after about 3-4 minutes, I drove the bike to the pits, to do some tinkering with the suspension. I didn't shut off the Rx or Tx, just did my work for a few seconds, then sent it out in the track and it was going SLOWLY! Slowly as in 27T tin-can brushed! What the heck?!

I returned the bike to the pits, lcd card in hand, I reran everything once, then did the Tx/Rx settings again and sent it out. It again had huge (wheelie!) power, so I started lapping normally... and carefully due to the newfound power! At around 3 minutes, it slowed down again. The battery I was using was a hardcase 3200/20C from rcmart. I removed the battery, let everything cool down for a few minutes, not that the motor was hot to touch, but anyway, I had to make sure everthing on the chassis was still tightly bolted and visually intact...

So, new battery installed, a Turnigy 3300/30C, the bike is going fast for three minutes, then it slows again. Turn it off, rerun the settings with lcd card, rerun the Tx/Rx settings, send it out, it is fast again!
I did it three times with this battery, with capacity to spare...

What gives here?!!!

I have to say, I installed the FW from my computer at home, twice, as usual with the latest FW's just in case, and had set the battery cut off at 3.0V.
I never really ran out of battery juice, or had any "thermal" issued with either the ESC or the motor. They were both warm, but easy to touch, and are both in the airflow, plus the ESC fan is always working.

Any ideas, anyone?!!!
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:31 PM   #27
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Could it be esc overheat protection?... Try reducing timing/ratio or even a more relaxed driving (riding) style and see if the drop in performance happens later...
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steliosh View Post
You don't need to flame me, it was a only a joke. A coincidence really... HW said "TNT" and then the "grenading" comment, it was really something so appropriately comic! I have PAID for my equipment, so I'm allowed to point to a good joke, when I see one!

Anyway, back to business:
I tested briefly the newest SW with mixed results.
First of all, I set it up as per the HW PDF recommendations, that is:
9. Option 8
12. Option 7
13. Option 3
14. Option 5
15. Option 2

I didn't have your settings with me, at the track, so I went on by the pdf...

I remind that I run a 1/5 motorcycle with Xerun 60A and Nosram 13.5T sensored, geared in the longish (as I already wrote in the other thread).

Well... At first I did a medium throttle warm up lap, it all went fine, then on the main straight (60m plus...) I open the throttle fully and the bike wheelied to God and tumbled! It caught me by surprise, to be honest! I didn't expect it to do so with a "humble" 13.5T!!!! I turned around and started running the main straight up and down, doing wheelies! It was huge fun! Anyway, I remembered why I went to the track (there were no... spectators, as well!) so I started lapping...

At one time, after about 3-4 minutes, I drove the bike to the pits, to do some tinkering with the suspension. I didn't shut off the Rx or Tx, just did my work for a few seconds, then sent it out in the track and it was going SLOWLY! Slowly as in 27T tin-can brushed! What the heck?!

I returned the bike to the pits, lcd card in hand, I reran everything once, then did the Tx/Rx settings again and sent it out. It again had huge (wheelie!) power, so I started lapping normally... and carefully due to the newfound power! At around 3 minutes, it slowed down again. The battery I was using was a hardcase 3200/20C from rcmart. I removed the battery, let everything cool down for a few minutes, not that the motor was hot to touch, but anyway, I had to make sure everthing on the chassis was still tightly bolted and visually intact...

So, new battery installed, a Turnigy 3300/30C, the bike is going fast for three minutes, then it slows again. Turn it off, rerun the settings with lcd card, rerun the Tx/Rx settings, send it out, it is fast again!
I did it three times with this battery, with capacity to spare...

What gives here?!!!

I have to say, I installed the FW from my computer at home, twice, as usual with the latest FW's just in case, and had set the battery cut off at 3.0V.
I never really ran out of battery juice, or had any "thermal" issued with either the ESC or the motor. They were both warm, but easy to touch, and are both in the airflow, plus the ESC fan is always working.

Any ideas, anyone?!!!
Most likely problem is the esc is activating the lipo voltage cut off.
Check it and set to 3v or 3.2v.
Also using a battery around 3000mah is very likely not going to last longer with the supercharge feature.
We are close to cut off using 5000mah batteries in a 5 min race.
The new software uses a lot more mah compared to the old pre supercharge versions.
Only other possibility is temp cut off which you can disable and try but do check that esc is not getting hot.
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:54 PM   #29
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quick question regarding settings 09, 12 and 15

09 is the internal timing given to the motor pre-charge and throughout the charge.

then 12 and 15 work together in a way such that:

if 12 is set to option 8 (7 degrees) and 15 is set to 2 (300rpm/degree). then:

1 degree is added per 300RPM until 7 degrees has been added, which is when the supercharger stops dynamic advancing and continues normal standard acceleration.

this timing is ontop of setting 9 (so after setting 12 is added, you are actually running the constant advance of 12 + 15 until you come off throttle?)

is this correct?
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:21 PM   #30
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With this software the motor sound is incredible than the 110 soft! great job Hobbywing congratulation!
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