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Old 01-30-2011, 11:07 AM   #2806
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Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post

Always start at a conservative setting, and make small adjustments for more power. Any other way, and you taking a risk with your equipement.

Shawn
the old 518 had a max off 29 total timing, now the new software has 60 degrees. So it`s easy to go wrong... just like you said, small steps...
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:19 AM   #2807
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Shawn ..
What were your findings on this.. Did you notice better speed or better temps?
What sort of fdr did you end up with?
I found 6.6-6.7 worked well with 518/1224. (Tekin redline)
Used the same today but spent my time playing with settings rather than gearing.
Thought 119 was smooth and deceptively quick. (0.2 quicker than 1224)
Well, its to early to tell, i still need to do some more testing. Unfortunately I didnt have enough pinions to really play around with gearing.

My Setting up is: 1S Novak 17.5 (1/12 scale) End bell timing of 15deg, ESC set to 38 boost, 8 turbo. 79mm rollout, car was SCREAMING FAST. Had low end, and top end, but was lacking a little in the middle. Motor 120F. That was with 1224.

with 119, same settings, my car was slow, I couldnt notice the turbo coming in, it just wasnt fast. The motor came off at 80F. So I geared up 3 teeth (82mm RO), and the car was much better picked up 7 tenths per lap (from a 13.3 to a 12.6, tekins are running 11.9 to 12.3) . And the motor still came off at 95F.

Since I will not be making to an large races until March, I am going to keep experimenting during the club racing to figure out the best settings for 1/12. I am thinking about 85-88mm will be the range for this new software. Need to buy some more pinions to try this out, so have to wait until next week now.

I dont know what has changed between the 2 versions, but I did notice a difference between them. The brakes on the 119 software are noticably less then the 1224 FW too. Still exceptable though, but less.

Shawn
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:23 AM   #2808
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What ever you do don't run the Hobbywing like a Tekin !!!!

I did today I maxed everything in the settings and the motor did not smell good after 4 mins of running and it was no quicker than those on sensable settings

After i used sensable settings , thanks to my mate It was Fantastic although I do think i have damaged the motor in those 4 mins of running at Max .........

Just a little warning to those other idiots like me that when a setting says FASTEST they set it at that

HTH anyone

Car69

p.s i was running 21.5
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:18 PM   #2809
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Originally Posted by sizheng View Post
1.make sure your sensor wire is good and plugged tightly.
2.reset your ESC's neutral ,full throttle, brake point carefully. Especially full throttle point.
3.Your battery maybe not powerful enough.
4.try to close turbo first to test. If still has problem Then close boost timing.
Raced 17.5 t today no problems but, 13.5 esc, was OK to about 3mins 45 then the turbo goes and it slows. Thought it may be the lipo cut out playing up but no difference with that disabled.

FDR 7.25

4=7
9=35
10=12
12=10 degrees
13=3000
14=0.3
15=250

Motor temp <35oC ambient temp 10oC

Any ideas??
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:22 PM   #2810
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BTW this is the battery,
View Larger Image

LRP VTEC LIPO 2S2P 5900 7.4V 50C HARD CASE

2 months old. An older one does the same as above

Forgot to mention esc has flashing green light at race end!?!?

Last edited by MENTAL DENTAL; 01-30-2011 at 12:31 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:04 PM   #2811
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Hi Guys,

Just a question, I've just started racing again after 4 years away, running a 5.5 V3 Speed passion motor with a HobbyWing 120A V2.1. Now 13.5t guys are running the 60A HW speedo, and they are going basically as fast as My 5.5 round our track.(asphalt, 60m straight, technical, average grip)

My 5.5 seems to have simular straight speed to the 13.5 guys, but less initial punch. but all the extra punch just means wheel spin and more trigger finger work.

So, if I want less initial torque, but higher straight speed, would I be right in thinking I could run a 9.5 or simular with Stock software and just adjust up with the settings til the motor gets up to 65ish C?

I played with esc settings, with bothing Punch and timing at Max with the 528 software. geared from 8.6 down to 8 and 8.3 seemed to be best. only thing I have not tried is more mechanical timing on the motor itself. I have never ran stock software, nor do i know much about it would adjust the lag setting and start rpm for boost etc sounds mighty helpful!

anyways any input would be appreciated, Cheers
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:21 PM   #2812
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Hi Guys,

Just a question, I've just started racing again after 4 years away, running a 5.5 V3 Speed passion motor with a HobbyWing 120A V2.1. Now 13.5t guys are running the 60A HW speedo, and they are going basically as fast as My 5.5 round our track.(asphalt, 60m straight, technical, average grip)

My 5.5 seems to have simular straight speed to the 13.5 guys, but less initial punch. but all the extra punch just means wheel spin and more trigger finger work.

So, if I want less initial torque, but higher straight speed, would I be right in thinking I could run a 9.5 or simular with Stock software and just adjust up with the settings til the motor gets up to 65ish C?

I played with esc settings, with bothing Punch and timing at Max with the 528 software. geared from 8.6 down to 8 and 8.3 seemed to be best. only thing I have not tried is more mechanical timing on the motor itself. I have never ran stock software, nor do i know much about it would adjust the lag setting and start rpm for boost etc sounds mighty helpful!

anyways any input would be appreciated, Cheers

I found when running my pan car, by reducing my RO (higher FDR), and increasing my end bell timing (Static), i could reduce the wheel spin coming out of the corner, while having great mid to high power. Make sure you reduce the gearing though, or the motor might get alittle hot.

shawn.
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:22 PM   #2813
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
One thing alot of you guys can't seem to understand is that to run efficiently with no power issues you need quality battery's.Turbo settings require loads of current and if your battery is one of those make believe c ratings as we see on 90% of the batterys on todays market then you will have problems .

A cheap battery is a cheap battery in power,quality and performance and as technology gets better and more performance is on demand those sort of cheap cells cannot do the job that is needed.

I get alot of emails about issues of esc stopping then going then slowing down after a few minutes etc .When batterys have a none linear voltage drop per time cycle they are crap Rubbish in other words.

lrp 5900 50c ???

Could you suggest a list of tested and recommended cells. These LRP' s, if rubbish, were expensive! Both packs!!!
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:13 PM   #2814
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Originally Posted by Jack2 View Post
Hi Guys,

Just a question, I've just started racing again after 4 years away, running a 5.5 V3 Speed passion motor with a HobbyWing 120A V2.1. Now 13.5t guys are running the 60A HW speedo, and they are going basically as fast as My 5.5 round our track.(asphalt, 60m straight, technical, average grip)

My 5.5 seems to have simular straight speed to the 13.5 guys, but less initial punch. but all the extra punch just means wheel spin and more trigger finger work.

So, if I want less initial torque, but higher straight speed, would I be right in thinking I could run a 9.5 or simular with Stock software and just adjust up with the settings til the motor gets up to 65ish C?

I played with esc settings, with bothing Punch and timing at Max with the 528 software. geared from 8.6 down to 8 and 8.3 seemed to be best. only thing I have not tried is more mechanical timing on the motor itself. I have never ran stock software, nor do i know much about it would adjust the lag setting and start rpm for boost etc sounds mighty helpful!

anyways any input would be appreciated, Cheers
Could try some throttle expo too.
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:24 PM   #2815
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Originally Posted by MENTAL DENTAL View Post
lrp 5900 50c ???

Could you suggest a list of tested and recommended cells. These LRP' s, if rubbish, were expensive! Both packs!!!
The LRP packs are fine...

7.25 seems high. I have not gone above 6.0 with a 17.5... Currently running much lower then that. Remember its not Tekin...

As for your actual problem i have never experienced it (except when running a 10.5 with lots of timing). You could try re-flashing it with the software...

I wont read through all the past post so here it goes...

Calibrate your speedo to your transmitter (throttle points)
Set your throttle end point to 110%

That seems to solve a lot of problems...

Chees
Phill
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:32 PM   #2816
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I took my 17.5T bike at a local parking lot this afternoon and tried a bit the 119... Well... one thing's for sure, setting the brake at 50% and reverse at 25% the bike had NO BRAKES at all!!!!
But... I didn't consider bringing the program box with me, so I just played it safely at the ends of the straights... And the bike doesn't even have a front brake... It could get ugly!
More testing on the subject of brakes, to follow.
Setting the other parameters like this:
DRRS: 5
09: 30
10: 12
12: 30
13: 3000
14: 0.2
15: 300
the bike *seemed* as fast as with a 13.5T running the earlier software. It was a parking lot really, and mainly I wanted to check that it goes straight (which it didn't, but I fixed that easily! LOL)
It was nice, though!
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:37 PM   #2817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MENTAL DENTAL View Post
BTW this is the battery,
View Larger Image

LRP VTEC LIPO 2S2P 5900 7.4V 50C HARD CASE

2 months old. An older one does the same as above

Forgot to mention esc has flashing green light at race end!?!?
Green led flash is the reason you lost speed!

If it's high frequency flash randomly , please reset your neutral point.
If it's flash with a fixed frequency, that means it switched to sensorless mode, your motor maybe not good.(high temp and vibration will cause the sensor error) change a sensor if you have.
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Old 01-30-2011, 07:22 PM   #2818
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Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
My Setting up is: 1S Novak 17.5 (1/12 scale) End bell timing of 15deg, ESC set to 38 boost, 8 turbo. 79mm rollout, car was SCREAMING FAST. Had low end, and top end, but was lacking a little in the middle. Motor 120F. That was with 1224.

with 119, same settings, my car was slow, I couldnt notice the turbo coming in, it just wasnt fast. The motor came off at 80F. So I geared up 3 teeth (82mm RO), and the car was much better picked up 7 tenths per lap (from a 13.3 to a 12.6, tekins are running 11.9 to 12.3) . And the motor still came off at 95F.
Shawn, what settings you used on 119 as you said same to 1224?
Please give me the detail value and let me see if it's real same.
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Old 01-30-2011, 07:39 PM   #2819
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Originally Posted by Lycan View Post
Could try some throttle expo too.
Yep, I ended up running around -45% EXP and around -35% TH ARC and it did make it easier to get out of the tight corners without over cooking it, but I just thought maybe rather than deaden my bottom end, I could move the power band further up the RPM range and maybe increase RPM.
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Old 01-30-2011, 07:47 PM   #2820
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can you run a 5.5t motor with the xtremestock esc with no boost or turbo timing plus adding a fan to the esc and motor?
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