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Old 01-22-2011, 03:05 AM   #2536
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Im about to take the plunge and update from 518 stock to the new 224. I am abit dubious about doing it because i have a really nice setup on the 518. I run a Nosram Storm evo motor (x11) 10.5 with a FDR of 7.6 in a Schumacher Mi4 and currently the esc is never hot but the motor will be hot to the touch after a 5min race but not so hot you cant hold you hand on it. Should i just use the reccomended settings for the 11.5 in the additional info sheet and leave my FDR as it is or should i lower the boost and timing settings. Thanks
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:07 AM   #2537
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Speaking of Turnigy batteries, I have extensively used these soft-case (or should they be called "no-case"?!): Two 3300/30C and two 3600/30C on my KP09e 1/5th scale bike, for just one reason: No hardcase would fit inside the fairing of the bike, without limiting lean angles...
I have also used Turnigy's 3000/40C softs with good results, but these would not provide the required 10 minute run time safely, so I mostly used them for testing... They tend to run out of steam at about 8-9 minutes, and the 10-minute runs are usually 12-14 minutes, if you add warm up laps and finishing laps!!! They would recharge at 2900-3100 mah, afterwards...
So, after having ran these four batteries for a total of about 200 times, they slowly started, one by one, behaving like the fellow with the SC truck said:
Going to sensorless, green leds showing, erratic throttle behaviour, etc...
But, at least, they were providing good power, compared with other bikes in the track, with the same LRP X12 13.5T motor and exactly the same gearing (stock class at 2010 Worlds, in Grenoble, France).
I ran these with the HW Xerun 60A with very mild settings, due to warm weather...
BTW, none has puffed or got "fat" yet... LVC always at 3.2V...

My new TT SB-5 bike, however can accommodate hardcases, since it was designed around them, so I will use my TC cells for that one! Not to mention the 5.5T motor on Xerun 120A!
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:06 AM   #2538
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ok just got a xtreme stock esc,need some help.
i first installed usb link v1.62 and esc is running 518 stock.
then it told me to download a update to usb link v1.63 and suggest to update the programmer to 110119,and so i did.
what next? which software version i should i update the esc to from the drop down list for 13.5 stock?
thanx

update
i flashed the esc with 110119 ,can anyone suggest some setting for a sp13.5 v3 motor racing on a track with a 30metre straight.
thanx

Last edited by guinnes.s; 01-22-2011 at 05:43 AM.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:02 AM   #2539
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Originally Posted by vadersing View Post
Considering to buy the above combo for club 17.5t race.

Has anyone tried this? Is the competitive against the Tekins?

Which is the recommended software for 17.5t racing with boost?


Thanks
As Cobra also mentioned earlier, driving skills come into play here also...
With the 518 I outrun Tekins, GM's, LRP's on our track, there is only 1 Tekin driver still beating me, it's not much, but he still has an edge...
With the 1224 I am pretty sure I closed the gap between us, in 2 weeks time we have another race and I can tell you...

But I really feel that people sometimes forget some drivers just have better skills!...
I am a 1/8 scale on-road racer for 25 Years now, electric indoor I do to keep up my 1/8 skills, I drive between 300-500 laps every Wednesday on our home indoor track, and still drivers question why I am faster then them...
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:20 AM   #2540
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what's the diff between 1224 and 0119?
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:42 AM   #2541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vadersing View Post
Considering to buy the above combo for club 17.5t race.

Has anyone tried this? Is the competitive against the Tekins?

Which is the recommended software for 17.5t racing with boost?


Thanks
I run with a h/w 60a and lrp x12 17.5 and have qualified on pole at the Chippenham winter indoor series every round so far. The tekins are as quick but definitely not quicker. i am switching to a h/w 17.5 motor to try a 0 timing motor that should be quicker. The track is 30m x 16m with a 30m straight.
If your looking for the best then in my opinion you wont be far wrong with hobbywing, if your running 17.5 and don't ever plan on running anything lower than 8.5 turn then get the 60a its no different to the 120a but alot cheaper.
Jay
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:50 AM   #2542
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Originally Posted by millbank View Post
get the 60a its no different to the 120a but alot cheaper.
Jay
Not a lot
$96 vs $114 (rc-mushroom)

for this $18 difference, you don't need a booster or rx battery in 1S racing...
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:23 AM   #2543
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Originally Posted by millbank View Post
... i am switching to a h/w 17.5 motor to try a 0 timing motor that should be quicker. The track is 30m x 16m with a 30m straight ...
Please do post any comments on the HW 13.5T motor.

I have a GM and a novak motor that I have been using and have been quite happy with. Have thought of trying out a HW motor, but they are still not 'much' cheaper than the GM motors that I have. So still a tad unsure.
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:36 AM   #2544
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Hi I have a question here,

Currently using xerun 120A esc with hw 10.5 sensored, and i have a broken ezrun 60a esc (but capacitor is fine).

What if i combine the capacitor from the ezrun with the xerun capacitor in parallel. will this work? the discharge performance will remain the same or worse ?

My aim is to let the combined capacitor hold more voltage than before.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:03 AM   #2545
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Shawn, do you set your drag brake to 0%? for stock racing here(we tested 11.5t), we set drag brake to 0, and brake force to 25,37.5 or 50%. That will help to reduce the sudden stop feeling. especially at the end of straight (turbo off in a short time will make some feeling like drag brake.)

I do run with 0% drag brake. I havnt played with the brakes much, as I dont use them unless if it i need to prevent a collision. I also found the "drag brake" effect coming off of turbo has been pretty much eliminated with using less turbo, and more boost.

Shawn.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:17 AM   #2546
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Is anyone using the latest 110119 with 13.5t ?
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:48 AM   #2547
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I loaded the SP software on my hobbywing 2in1 program because I could not completely see the whole window with the HW software. Now I want to try again with the newest software but last time I tried to go back to Hobbywing it did not allow me to do so. Do you guys know the steps I need to make so I can go back to hobbywing software and avail of the new programs?
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:48 AM   #2548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinaman View Post
Please do post any comments on the HW 13.5T motor.

I have a GM and a novak motor that I have been using and have been quite happy with. Have thought of trying out a HW motor, but they are still not 'much' cheaper than the GM motors that I have. So still a tad unsure.
I am running the h/w 13.5 v3 motor and can tell you that it is awesome...
It is just as quick as my older lrp x12 but generates far less heat. a good 20 degree's cooler. Again I can't fault the H/w equipment and the temp overheat should work with the esc as they are both h/w. Happy Days.
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:10 PM   #2549
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Originally Posted by izzyracer View Post
I loaded the SP software on my hobbywing 2in1 program because I could not completely see the whole window with the HW software. Now I want to try again with the newest software but last time I tried to go back to Hobbywing it did not allow me to do so. Do you guys know the steps I need to make so I can go back to hobbywing software and avail of the new programs?
arrrgg.. disregard... found it.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:56 PM   #2550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millbank View Post
I am running the h/w 13.5 v3 motor and can tell you that it is awesome...
It is just as quick as my older lrp x12 but generates far less heat. a good 20 degree's cooler. Again I can't fault the H/w equipment and the temp overheat should work with the esc as they are both h/w. Happy Days.
I want to try a Hobbywing 13.5t motor, but am struggling to find one to buy! I dont want to buy from Ebay really as I'm not sure that I will be actually buying a Hobbywing, so would rather a genuine source.

Can anyone point me in the right direction.
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