R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Radio and Electronics

Like Tree5Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-21-2011, 02:50 AM   #2521
Tech Elite
 
kschu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kota Kinabalu,Sabah
Posts: 4,598
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to kschu
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sizheng View Post
that's something related technical detail , but it is not guessing, it is true.
yes, it's true...tekin esc also need to set like that last time tho....but not sure with it latest software now...
__________________
Give the best while u can !
kschu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 03:55 PM   #2522
Tech Fanatic
 
vadersing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 934
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default 120A esc + Duo3 17.5t

Considering to buy the above combo for club 17.5t race.

Has anyone tried this? Is the competitive against the Tekins?

Which is the recommended software for 17.5t racing with boost?


Thanks
vadersing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 04:51 PM   #2523
Tech Regular
 
whoopass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 295
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vadersing View Post
Considering to buy the above combo for club 17.5t race.

Has anyone tried this? Is the competitive against the Tekins?

Which is the recommended software for 17.5t racing with boost?


Thanks
er more than quick enough for the tekins! run 1224 stock S/W, and the recommended setting. you could get away with the 60A ESC if 17.5/13.5 is all you're going to run.
whoopass is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 06:56 PM   #2524
Tech Fanatic
 
TeamWTF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 971
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

I use the Duo3 and HW myself... nothing wrong with the speed and deff on par with tekins etc...

As said 1224 software. Dont forget you will need a decent heatsink/fan for the motor... MUST HAVE item.

The 120a is a great speedy. If i could start fresh i would buy nothing else (I have a 120a + 120a 1s for 12th and a Xtreme stock for open 17.5...)

I have used the 120a in mod and stock. Versatility wins here...
__________________
T.O.P. Racing Australia www.topracing.net.au
TeamWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 07:46 PM   #2525
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H View Post
I've read this remark earlier, to also set reverse to 100%, even if you don't use reverse, but I can't feel any difference under braking, so I think this was a bug in any of the earlier firmware versions.
Shawn, do you feel a difference?
Also with flashing the ESC, some say you have to flash it 2 times, is this still needed?

With the older version of software I had almost no brakes at all, with this new version the car stops on a dime. I run the braking and Rev at 100% (Forward/Brake mode). I will play with it tomorrow night to see if the bug is gone or not.

I dont know if it makes a difference or not, but I always flash it twice. I used to program microcontrollers for a living, and found that they dont always program properly the first time (so this isnt a HW problem, but a generic flash/microcontroler issue). I also re calibrate my radio when ever I upload new FW.

HW: Have your FW do a CRC or Checksum on the EEPROM when the software is installed to make sure the uploaded firmware is correct. You could have it do it when you first bootup the ESC. (Have a flashing light sequence that signify's a corrupt ROM. ) Also, I would like to see upto 60 deg of boost


Cheers,
Shawn.
Shawn68z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 07:48 PM   #2526
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vadersing View Post
Considering to buy the above combo for club 17.5t race.

Has anyone tried this? Is the competitive against the Tekins?

Which is the recommended software for 17.5t racing with boost?


Thanks
If you are only runing stock motors you might want to consider the XtremeStock.. Really nice ESC. I am out fitting both of my TC with them this year.

Shawn
Shawn68z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 08:04 PM   #2527
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 720
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
I use 1224 in my pancar and have TONS of brakes with this version. Make sure you have brakes and reverse set to 100%.

Shawn
i reflashed 2 times last night... even 100% of 1224 brake, cant achieve as 75% 422s brake...
zamrioo2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 08:37 PM   #2528
Tech Apprentice
 
sizheng's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 98
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
With the older version of software I had almost no brakes at all, with this new version the car stops on a dime. I run the braking and Rev at 100% (Forward/Brake mode). I will play with it tomorrow night to see if the bug is gone or not.

Shawn, do you set your drag brake to 0%? for stock racing here(we tested 11.5t), we set drag brake to 0, and brake force to 25,37.5 or 50%. That will help to reduce the sudden stop feeling. especially at the end of straight (turbo off in a short time will make some feeling like drag brake.)
sizheng is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 09:29 PM   #2529
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 22
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trx B E View Post
All right guys I have the xtreme stock with the latest firmware! I am running it in a SC truck but I am having nothing but problems! The first problem was solved when the voltage cutoff had to be dropped to 2.8v so the truck could finish the race! Now no rhyme or reason in the middle of the race it seems as though it goes into the sensorless mode or zero timing really slow mode! I reset the throttle and let it sit then it is fine again till halfway through the heat? I switched motors and sensor wires and batteries but not sure what is causing this but very frustrating especially since it is so new and nothing but problems! It appears the green light is flashing when it does this! Any help would be great would be great!
Cobra or someone could you give me any ideas on what is causing this?

My Buddy was having this Same Exact problem. He was also running the 120 A Xerun with a 17.5T Trinity motor in his SC10. It turned out that his Lipos were not up to the task of powering the system, and it would "mysteriously" drop off in power (go sensorless) or quit completely mid race, like it was Thermaling, but it wasnt getting Hot. He bought some Higher C lipos and the problem went away. The lipos that were causing the Problems were Turnigy 2S 30-40C 5000mah batts. The batteries were well used, and that may have been the Problem. Or, perhaps the Turnigy Batts were never "up to the task" to begin with.
Redharris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 10:21 PM   #2530
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
Default

I do have brand new turnigy 5000 packs but I also just bought a brand new Icon 45c 5000 pack and the same thing?
trx B E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 10:56 PM   #2531
Tech Elite
 
COBRARACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,308
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trx B E View Post
Cobra or someone could you give me any ideas on what is causing this?
The Green led flashing 3 single times is the esc is in overheat protection mode esc is hot over 95 degree c .

The Green led flashing 3 double times is the motor is over temp only on sensored motors .

You have mentioned the Green led is a sign of the program being reset it is not the case at all as if the Green led was the sign of the program reset it wouldnt work until the changes are complete and that only happens when using the reset buttom to program the esc.

Conclusion your trying to run a massive drive train(as the sc truck which has bigger wheels and a larger drive train with an under powered motor .what happens is once the motor is at it's peak it starts to draw more and more current thus causing the esc to over heat and shut down remembering a motor is actually an uncontrolled device which when it demands the current the esc will supply unconditionally until the esc over heats and runs into protection mode .

Hobbywing has sc10 and sc8 which are more suited to the sc trucks.

Your settings as way to high ,driver train is very heavy and motor is underpowered causing an over temp protection circuit to cut in and of course it will work again after is stops and you turn it off and on again as the temp in a very short time like mil secs will drop 1 or 2 degrees allowing the esc to fucntion again once reset as the temp is set at 95 degrees.

You other issue with you battery and having to drop the volataage cut off to 2.8v for it to function has nothing to do with the esc but your battery all batterys are different in design and low voltage cutoffs .

anything else you need to know please email me at [email protected]
__________________
Email : [email protected] or [email protected]
Repair service Address
Hobbywing Technology Co., Ltd.
4th Floor, 3rd Building, KeLunTe Industrial Park, ShangLiLang, BuLan Road, LongGang District, ShenZhen, China
COBRARACING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2011, 11:57 PM   #2532
Tech Elite
 
COBRARACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,308
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redharris View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by trx B E View Post
All right guys I have the xtreme stock with the latest firmware! I am running it in a SC truck but I am having nothing but problems! The first problem was solved when the voltage cutoff had to be dropped to 2.8v so the truck could finish the race! Now no rhyme or reason in the middle of the race it seems as though it goes into the sensorless mode or zero timing really slow mode! I reset the throttle and let it sit then it is fine again till halfway through the heat? I switched motors and sensor wires and batteries but not sure what is causing this but very frustrating especially since it is so new and nothing but problems! It appears the green light is flashing when it does this! Any help would be great would be great!
Cobra or someone could you give me any ideas on what is causing this?

My Buddy was having this Same Exact problem. He was also running the 120 A Xerun with a 17.5T Trinity motor in his SC10. It turned out that his Lipos were not up to the task of powering the system, and it would "mysteriously" drop off in power (go sensorless) or quit completely mid race, like it was Thermaling, but it wasnt getting Hot. He bought some Higher C lipos and the problem went away. The lipos that were causing the Problems were Turnigy 2S 30-40C 5000mah batts. The batteries were well used, and that may have been the Problem. Or, perhaps the Turnigy Batts were never "up to the task" to begin with.
I dont want to be seen as bashing products as it is not my way of doing things but lets be honest the Turnigy Battery packs are not up to the task to handle massive discharge current .But i guess you get what you paid for .
__________________
Email : [email protected] or [email protected]
Repair service Address
Hobbywing Technology Co., Ltd.
4th Floor, 3rd Building, KeLunTe Industrial Park, ShangLiLang, BuLan Road, LongGang District, ShenZhen, China
COBRARACING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2011, 12:29 AM   #2533
Tech Elite
 
COBRARACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,308
Default

Hi guys

We have noticed alot of counterfeits lately of the hobbywing products so far only the 35 amp ezrun and 60 amp ezrun

The shops with these products have been tracked to ebay stores abayyer and demon 2 so far .

what to look for is the clear case on/off switch used ,different serial numbers on the packaging ,warranty card and product. very poor soldering ,some decals missing and spelling mistakes .Larger than expected physical size of capacitors ,noisy fans etc .

The 35 amp sold is actually a 25 amp and the 60 amp is a 45 amp only as they have some missing mosfets on the circuit boards .

They are usually priced around the $50 mark so becareful what you buy on online stores and especially ebay .

thank you for your time

ps:anyone affected please let me know and send me some photos so i can investigate and also the store bought from so i can prepare a report for you for ebay and paypal or your finacially institution so you can receive your money back .
__________________
Email : [email protected] or [email protected]
Repair service Address
Hobbywing Technology Co., Ltd.
4th Floor, 3rd Building, KeLunTe Industrial Park, ShangLiLang, BuLan Road, LongGang District, ShenZhen, China
COBRARACING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2011, 12:36 AM   #2534
Tech Adept
 
Mitch-e4fs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 132
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Cobra, is there a list of motors that work with the over temp cut off?
Ive had some get very hot and some even burn out while the esc had over temp protection on.

Thanks
Mitch-e4fs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2011, 12:41 AM   #2535
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,039
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

how much boost/timing can we ever have?
cheapskate.brok is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:16 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net