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Old 11-19-2010, 03:27 PM   #1681
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Originally Posted by nikos2002 View Post
Like they said above. Download the new program the software is in that download. Check back through the thread there are video directions on here somewhere that someone did.

When I am at the track tonight. I will download my esc settings. And post them.
Waiting to download
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:47 AM   #1682
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Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Hi, which is faster for no-boost class?

508 NO_Boost

or

518 Stock with boost and turbo turned off?

Thanks.
the 518 is not a notiming software, it has plenty of boost built in even at "zero" settings.

So yes the 518 is much faster but also illegal.
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Old 11-20-2010, 02:18 AM   #1683
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Originally Posted by cheapskate.brok View Post
how do I get the 518 firmware? All I have from HW's website is the 110 :S
Sorry I haven't got my esc nor LCD prog card. I just wanna be prepared when the stuff arrives.
THanks
i think ... when you connect you esc to the program card and that to the PC, with the HW software program installed, it will get the most recent updates and you can then select the respective firmware to use ... all in the software.

someone do correct me if I am wrong ...
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Old 11-21-2010, 01:30 AM   #1684
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Questions?? radio settings

I have 518 software, and am using profile 8 - and I am using turbo etc.

I find that when I lower, and come 'off throttle' even a bit it seems to pitch the car too much forward.

I think it may be coz I have a lack of modulation as I have my radio punch at 50%. Would getting rid of that tackle bthe problem somewhat, or are hobbywing going to develop 'push control' like tekin?
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:06 AM   #1685
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Originally Posted by Lohan View Post
I have 518 software, and am using profile 8 - and I am using turbo etc.

I find that when I lower, and come 'off throttle' even a bit it seems to pitch the car too much forward.

I think it may be coz I have a lack of modulation as I have my radio punch at 50%. Would getting rid of that tackle bthe problem somewhat, or are hobbywing going to develop 'push control' like tekin?
Leave ALL your radio throttle settings at linear/100%. Do the tuning with the ESC.

I'm not sure what you mean by "profile 8" on the 518 - but I do know that even with drag brake at 20% (which is the top end of what I find driveable), the car has no noticeable "pitch" forward off-power. This is using Hobbywing's .pdf settings for 13.5.
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:25 AM   #1686
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tried the speedpassion 528 on my fleta 3.0 and it went well....still think the hobbywing 518 has better rpm range..... apart from that very close....
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:36 AM   #1687
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CHeers guys. Just had a check and im running around 7.6 so may go up a tooth on pinion size, il see what happens tonight

While im on here. I also have a ezrun 60a v2 and was wondering wether anyone has tried the xtreme stock software in it, I assume the supercharged/turbo software wont work because its sensorless but maybe the no timing version mite?
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:17 AM   #1688
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I m posting this on behalf of a friend of mine coz nothing that we do seems to solve the problem.

My friend has been using Hobbywing Xtreme Stock combo with Hobbywing 11.5T motor for the past 2 weeks which include 1 race day. For the past 4 days he's having problem with the esc somehow loosing the turbo function, its more like its switching to sensorless mode by it self. First 2-3 laps it was fine, after that the car was just crawling, then all of the sudden the Turbo is there again. This happened on and off during 5 mins drive. The ESC and Motor's temp was normal (esc 40C ish and motor 60C ish).

What have we done so far to solve the problem:

1. Change the sensor wire (a few time already which include a new one)
2. Calibrate the throttle (set to 100% during calibrating then bump it up to full 140% EPA)
3. Reflash the 518 stock firmware (twice now)

BUT the problem is still there Anyone got any more idea on what to do?
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
To me it seems to be a problem with your battery .Have you tried a different battery .

As for the esc going to sensoreless mode and that causing it to slow down doesnt seem right as there is no such thing i have heard it many times from people on this site but believe doesnt make sence .

The sensor wire basically is there to make sure the esc knows where the rotor is at any given time to produce 100% power to a single phase may it be A,B or C thats all .were the sensorless unit works by producing 100% to two phases as it has no hall sensors to know ehere the rotor position is thats all .

When a sensor wire is out it will not slow the car down but make it cog when is starts up thats all that could also be caused by phase A shorted mosfets nothing else .

The Capacitor network is used to equalise the battery voltage to the esc and not allow the battery to increase also there board protects from voltage spikes and radio interference .

So i suggest you have a careful look at your battery .

let me know how you go

regards ANgelo
Update on the problem:
So far we have tried different batteries (IP5600 50C, H-Energy 5500 50C, By Energy 5200 45C) , re-solder the leads, swapping the wires to a new sets, swapping batt connectors, swapping different motors, swapping motor sensors.

The problem is still there. After 2-3 mins the turbo/supercharger function is gone and intermittently coming back randomly. We also notice that while the turbo/supercharger is gone the red light only illuminate when in full throttle, not the usual red to green lights.

Anymore suggestions to trouble shoot this problem? Or can I just advice my fried to send it back to Hobbywing for repair and if so how do we send it back? Whats the procedure?

Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:26 AM   #1689
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Try a different motor, the sensor in the 11.5 may be acting up, even if it is new or not.
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Old 11-21-2010, 12:41 PM   #1690
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Originally Posted by nikos2002 View Post
If you are running a motor 10.5 or higher I highly recommend updating to the 518 stock software. It gives you the turbo features that help with top speed and controlling the car in the air over jumps. I will post my set up for 2wd and 4wd tonight when I get home.
will be waiting for your post as most set up i found is not for off-road
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:12 PM   #1691
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Originally Posted by GasserX View Post
Try a different motor, the sensor in the 11.5 may be acting up, even if it is new or not.
As i have said in the past the sensor takes no part in the turbo function ,The sensor is there to know what position the rotor is at any given time thats all mainly only good for take off which means start up torque .Anyone thats tells you otherwise are misinformed .

Two reasons only that a motor should cog on take off and conitnue cogging one is that the sensor cable is damaged or the sensor unit within the motor also known as an encoder .There are 3 types of encoders .Led,disk and hall sensor.The other reason is shorted mosfets could be phase a or b or c it all depends.If the motors starts to cog like stutter its because the sensors dont know where the rotor is positioned to actually apply the 100% power to whatever phase so it guesses and thats when you get the stutter.cogging caused mainly by a sensor being out of action .Thats when the esc will realise this problem and swap to a sensorless mode without the sensor cable being plugged in .sensorless mode does not mean less power just means the esc will apply 100% to two phases instead of one to make sure it knows where the rotor is stationed at that time of start up torque .

I hope this info helps you guys out .

regards Angelo
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:13 PM   #1692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Update on the problem:
So far we have tried different batteries (IP5600 50C, H-Energy 5500 50C, By Energy 5200 45C) , re-solder the leads, swapping the wires to a new sets, swapping batt connectors, swapping different motors, swapping motor sensors.

The problem is still there. After 2-3 mins the turbo/supercharger function is gone and intermittently coming back randomly. We also notice that while the turbo/supercharger is gone the red light only illuminate when in full throttle, not the usual red to green lights.

Anymore suggestions to trouble shoot this problem? Or can I just advice my fried to send it back to Hobbywing for repair and if so how do we send it back? Whats the procedure?

Thanks.
Have you tried reloading the software ?

please send me an email at teamcobraracing@gmail.com

regards Angelo
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:57 PM   #1693
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Have you tried reloading the software ?

please send me an email at teamcobraracing@gmail.com

regards Angelo
Yes, 3 times already. Anyhow, I ll email you, thanks.
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:59 PM   #1694
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
Have you tried reloading the software ?

please send me an email at teamcobraracing@gmail.com

regards Angelo
COBRARACING (Angelo) Thank you very much for helping us out. This guy is just awesome, though we bought ours locally but he still help us out. This sort of guy is what a company should be getting to represent them. Very helpful and informative. Again Thank you very much mate.
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:02 AM   #1695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Update on the problem:
So far we have tried different batteries (IP5600 50C, H-Energy 5500 50C, By Energy 5200 45C) , re-solder the leads, swapping the wires to a new sets, swapping batt connectors, swapping different motors, swapping motor sensors.

The problem is still there. After 2-3 mins the turbo/supercharger function is gone and intermittently coming back randomly. We also notice that while the turbo/supercharger is gone the red light only illuminate when in full throttle, not the usual red to green lights.

Anymore suggestions to trouble shoot this problem? Or can I just advice my fried to send it back to Hobbywing for repair and if so how do we send it back? Whats the procedure?

Thanks.
i had similar issues with mine going like this every after 5 minute run...
what setting is the Low Voltage cut-off? i switched mine from 3.4V back to 3.0V and got it resolved. for some reason the volt cut-off was kicking in earlier...

may not have same issues as mine, but you could try it out...
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