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Old 10-31-2010, 06:22 PM   #1531
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Originally Posted by Stregone View Post
How do I install an esc power cap? I assume I just solder it to the battery leads, but I wanna make sure.
yes make sure the polarity is correct and solder it to the battery leads of the esc
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:11 PM   #1532
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
yes make sure the polarity is correct and solder it to the battery leads of the esc
Cool thanks. Do I need to make sure its close to the esc or does it matter?
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:22 AM   #1533
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Cool thanks. Do I need to make sure its close to the esc or does it matter?
the closer the better as the shorter the path the current can flow the less losses occur .

anything else you need please do not hesitate to contact me .

regards Angelo
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:42 AM   #1534
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
the closer the better as the shorter the path the current can flow the less losses occur .

anything else you need please do not hesitate to contact me .

regards Angelo
i think that's merely speculation, unless you've got some data from an oscilloscope to prove it

p/s: We'd all love to see that to be honest!
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:35 AM   #1535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapskate.brok View Post
i think that's merely speculation, unless you've got some data from an oscilloscope to prove it

p/s: We'd all love to see that to be honest!
There is PLENTY of evidence out there (usually from car audio sources) that the shorter the power wires the less loss... the question has always been how MUCH actual difference it makes... the theory is one thing...
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:05 AM   #1536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFT View Post
Dear All,

I need help on what to do to reduce motor temp.

The track I run has a straight approximately 130-150ft with flowing infield.
The ratio I used in 7.7 on a LRP X12 10.5 with light weight cooling motor can upgrade added to give it better cooling.

ESC : Hobbywing 120A XERUN with upgraded caps, 4 caps with approx 1600 micro farad.

S/w : 518
ESC Setting :
DDRS : 3
9 : 4
12 : 4
13 : 7
14 : 4
15 : 7

Track surface temp is 55 celsius
After 5 min run, motor temp is 97 Celsius. The run is pace with another similar brand car, motor , ratio is 8 and different brand esc. The other car temp is lower. Both car have similar pace and speed

Previously ran this motor with another ESC on the same layout. The motor temp is approx. 8 degree celsius cooler under similar track and air conditions.

The motor is cooled using a big 40mm fan which is super efficient and big volume of air.

Any recommendation on what I can do to keep the motor cooler.

Thank you in advance.

sc
Hi there, I run a similar setup as you but with a much lower motor temp.
My settings are:
FDR: 7.6
SW:518Stock
#4:7
#9:6
#12:4
#13:6
#14:4
#15:6/7
straight is 35m long, with semi-technical infield.

outside temp: ~ 22C, track ~ 35C-40C
motor temp after 6 mins: ~ 60C (x11, 10.5r, Zero timing)

It looks like your motor is quite hot. Check your pinion & spur gears to make sure they are not binding. Make sure your transmission is also smooth. Are you running any motor timing?
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:25 AM   #1537
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Hi hardmankam,

I did another run yesterday. Almost similar weather condition. The old different is the FDR I use now is 6.9. The motor is now 10 deg celsius cooler. Now it is 88 deg cooler in the acceptable range.

Does lower ratio actually lower motor temp, where all other conditions remains?

My esc setting are
#4:3
#9:4
#12:4
#13:6
#14:4
#15:5

Question, what affect motor heat. I notice that this track, (the city is in a valley) we ran on is always hotter on motor. However earlier this month, we ran a race up north. 400km away closer to the seaside, we can run higher boost and turbo and yet the same motor is cooler. That put a question mark on my head!


Quote:
Originally Posted by hardmankam View Post
Hi there, I run a similar setup as you but with a much lower motor temp.
My settings are:
FDR: 7.6
SW:518Stock
#4:7
#9:6
#12:4
#13:6
#14:4
#15:6/7
straight is 35m long, with semi-technical infield.

outside temp: ~ 22C, track ~ 35C-40C
motor temp after 6 mins: ~ 60C (x11, 10.5r, Zero timing)

It looks like your motor is quite hot. Check your pinion & spur gears to make sure they are not binding. Make sure your transmission is also smooth. Are you running any motor timing?
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:08 AM   #1538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFT View Post
Hi hardmankam,

I did another run yesterday. Almost similar weather condition. The old different is the FDR I use now is 6.9. The motor is now 10 deg celsius cooler. Now it is 88 deg cooler in the acceptable range.

Does lower ratio actually lower motor temp, where all other conditions remains?

My esc setting are
#4:3
#9:4
#12:4
#13:6
#14:4
#15:5

Question, what affect motor heat. I notice that this track, (the city is in a valley) we ran on is always hotter on motor. However earlier this month, we ran a race up north. 400km away closer to the seaside, we can run higher boost and turbo and yet the same motor is cooler. That put a question mark on my head!
There are a lot of factors that affect motor heat. Both over gearing and under gearing CAN produce motor heat. HW suggests to use 6.0-6.5 for 11.5R, so for your 10.5R, 6.9 is prob. about right.

Of course FDR is quite driver and track dependent. eg: the amount of drag brake, the driving line, # of turns etc...

But yes, keep the LRP under 90C is the goal while finding the right combo is part of the fun.
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:36 PM   #1539
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I read this in an other topic:
Quote:
The latest version of hotwire on the tekin not only applies to dual mode but strictly sensorless as well. So, yes there are esc's that can apply variable sensorless timing; the rx8, rs, and rs pro.
Does anyone know how far Hobbywing is with this feature?
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:59 PM   #1540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedFreakNL View Post
Do these motor mentioned also work with the motor overheat protections build in the ESC?

Or does that only work with the Hobbywing motors?
Can anybody please tell me with motor's out there support the overheat protections. Only the HW motor or are there other motor's as well ?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:14 PM   #1541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapskate.brok View Post
i think that's merely speculation, unless you've got some data from an oscilloscope to prove it

p/s: We'd all love to see that to be honest!
why would i need an oscilloscope to prove it ? Just a multimeter is perfect which has a resistive circuit already connected in series with the circuit .The multimeter will give you the same as the osci just the osci you need a resistor is series then divide the voltage shown on the oscilloscope by the resistance to determine the current or even a more expensive way is to use a current probe.why would i go to so much trouble ?

Low esr caps are another way to cut losses .losses do exist not matter cap or wiring .Shorter thicker wire may it be copper,silver,tin or anything else can hold more electrons and flow much easier then thinner wiring everything makes a difference .Heat creates losses its fact

Maybe its losses are min and maybe not make much of a difference but to say its speculation your misinformed as in audio when they use those massive 1 farad caps there are major losses and proven.

min i believe 100% but as for speculation you are 100% wrong .
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Last edited by COBRARACING; 11-01-2010 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:34 PM   #1542
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i m running 2 caps for 10.5t motor... do i need more caps for 4.5t motor...?
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:09 AM   #1543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBRARACING View Post
why would i need an oscilloscope to prove it ? Just a multimeter is perfect which has a resistive circuit already connected in series with the circuit .The multimeter will give you the same as the osci just the osci you need a resistor is series then divide the voltage shown on the oscilloscope by the resistance to determine the current or even a more expensive way is to use a current probe.why would i go to so much trouble ?

Low esr caps are another way to cut losses .losses do exist not matter cap or wiring .Shorter thicker wire may it be copper,silver,tin or anything else can hold more electrons and flow much easier then thinner wiring everything makes a difference .Heat creates losses its fact

Maybe its losses are min and maybe not make much of a difference but to say its speculation your misinformed as in audio when they use those massive 1 farad caps there are major losses and proven.

min i believe 100% but as for speculation you are 100% wrong .
This is all speculation.
Do the math (yes) regarding actual effects of power caps. (start with time constants), work out just how much(little) power caps will help sagging power supplies in average RC cars.
Do the math regarding actual cable losses from 2-4 inch's or so of cable.

The audio crowd are the biggest suckers for perceiving effects from cables that arnt actually there.

You would need a scope to actually see whats going on, the current will be going through in pulses & most MM's are really designed to measure that.

But I'm not an expert either.
Id also like to see some real proof one way or the other. I suspect the power caps are there just to filter the power going into the escs circuitry , ie remove hash, noise & spikes.
Just my speculation.

I can confirm thats all the power cap I had to stick on the Spektrum RX did, I scoped it up. Lots of noise coming from a el-cheapo servo causing RX to reset. Nothing to do with compensating for power(voltage ) losses into the RX.
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:33 AM   #1544
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Just do a test and see which gives cooler esc.

1. Capacitor closest to the esc.
2. Capacitor far away from esc.
3. No capacitor.

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Old 11-02-2010, 01:58 AM   #1545
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My track has a 35m straight with a shorter 20m straight infield with sweeping corners...

I cant remember my exact settings but from what i remember is this: -

FDR = 7.35

9 = 5
12 = 4
13 = 5
14 = 4
15 = 6

after 7 mins runs... competitively
Motor temps 50 degrees C...
Ambient = ~ 29 - 31 C

Both mine (X12 10.5T stockspec) and Xerun 10.5T shows the same temp

Quote:
Originally Posted by hardmankam View Post
Hi there, I run a similar setup as you but with a much lower motor temp.
My settings are:
FDR: 7.6
SW:518Stock
#4:7
#9:6
#12:4
#13:6
#14:4
#15:6/7
straight is 35m long, with semi-technical infield.

outside temp: ~ 22C, track ~ 35C-40C
motor temp after 6 mins: ~ 60C (x11, 10.5r, Zero timing)

It looks like your motor is quite hot. Check your pinion & spur gears to make sure they are not binding. Make sure your transmission is also smooth. Are you running any motor timing?
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