I just got my bluebird BMS-617DMG+HS V-Fast Digital Buggy Servo. When it said it was a buggy servo I thought it meant it was for off-road buggies, not that it was just buggy as heck and doesn't work properly! The Servo has a delay in response and minor twitching on my Futaba AM system, controllable though, but on my 2.4ghz system the LED on the Rx flashes, the servo twitches bad and the motor stops and starts. I have tried it on all channels and the same thing happens. Moving it very slowly, sometimes the receiver LED will stay lit and it will respond for a few seconds but then it will cause the LED to flash and continue the erratic behavior. My old futaba S3003 servo works perfectly on the same setup. I've tried it from a far distance, I've tried plugging it in after the RX is powered up, nothing seems to help.
Any ideas what could cause this or how to fix it? Messing with the endpoint settings seemed to help a little. To RMA it will cost as much in shipping as a replacement servo, and I'm wondering if its even broke or something else is causing this or if I can fix it.
Help please!
__________________
HPI RS4 rally, Axial SCX10,
2 Associated TC3s
(100% alloy/titanium bling and FT)
Mini E-Revo VXL
No, how do I do that? I tried the normal stuff like 0 trim and sub-trim and attempting to set the endpoints (still learning about how to do that).
From my research it seems my issue is caused by an improperly set-up digital servo. The receiver reboot thing seems to be common. I can't find anything about how to fix it though.
Do i need a servo programmer?
__________________
HPI RS4 rally, Axial SCX10,
2 Associated TC3s
(100% alloy/titanium bling and FT)
Mini E-Revo VXL
Just throw it out...bluebird servos are junk. Ya get what ya pay for . Sorry for the reality check.
The 617's I have seem to be working great, but they like High Amperage BEC & good voltage too... 5.7v-6v
Low amp BEC would give me a delay or hicup when I if I asked a lot of the servo.
A cap on the receiver might help to give a little more too.
I don't know what the issue would be with the 2.4ghz, but it has been great on AM.
I tested a 617 in an 1/8th buggy scale for two weeks & it was rock solid.
They seem great in my 1/10th scale stuff.
Yeah it works much better on my AM system too. It shouldn't be a BEC issue, I am using a CC sidewinder and tried with a 7.4 lipo and a NiMH. I'll be testing it with my EZrun 80a once it arrives to see if the switching BEC on that makes it any better.
Anyway I have a traxxas 2075 in the mail now, I just wanted something decent, waterproof and affordable.
__________________
HPI RS4 rally, Axial SCX10,
2 Associated TC3s
(100% alloy/titanium bling and FT)
Mini E-Revo VXL
I tried the 2075, but my son & wife each stripped out gears over the summer in two different Slashes.
CC doesn't say how many amp BEC they have integrated into the Sidewinder.
My old Novak 1amp wouldn't keep up, but the 3amp on a different Novak had no problem.
A capacitor wired off of the bat port on the receiver would likely help a lot.
Spektrum call it a "voltage protector". It doesn't protect any thing, it isn't a voltage regulator, nor a MOV surge protector.
It is a Capacitor, it is like a battery, but can charge & discharge very very quickly.
Novak calls them "studder stoppers"
You can make one if you have spare parts lying around.
I've used 12-16volt 1000uf caps.
They help take out voltage ripple in the DC, & give a little bit of capacity right at the receiver. They can cure a hand full of radio gremlins.
Thanks for the info! I'll have to make a trip down to the electronics store.
The hobbywing ESC I am waiting for does have a 3a UBEC 5.75v so I'm hoping that works better. The sidewinder's BEC actually isn't the greatest based on what I've been hearing.
I'm not too worried about stripping the gears on the 2075, since they do sell replacement gear sets for them. That one will probably be just going in my rally car too so not too demanding.
Hoping I can get the bluebird working well enough for my crawler though. I'll probably end up having to get a hitec or something more reliable for that though.
__________________
HPI RS4 rally, Axial SCX10,
2 Associated TC3s
(100% alloy/titanium bling and FT)
Mini E-Revo VXL
Last edited by KniteWulfe; 10-10-2009 at 09:50 AM.
The UBEC on the Ezrun mostly fixed the problem but the Rx was still resetting every once in a while when the servo asked for too much juice. I tried the capacitor thing and it fixed it completely, even with a 15 LED light system on. Thanks a bunch for the suggestion GLwagon! I actually like that servo now, despite its thirst for power.
__________________
HPI RS4 rally, Axial SCX10,
2 Associated TC3s
(100% alloy/titanium bling and FT)
Mini E-Revo VXL
I tried the 2075, but my son & wife each stripped out gears over the summer in two different Slashes.
CC doesn't say how many amp BEC they have integrated into the Sidewinder.
My old Novak 1amp wouldn't keep up, but the 3amp on a different Novak had no problem.
A capacitor wired off of the bat port on the receiver would likely help a lot.
Spektrum call it a "voltage protector". It doesn't protect any thing, it isn't a voltage regulator, nor a MOV surge protector.
It is a Capacitor, it is like a battery, but can charge & discharge very very quickly.
Novak calls them "studder stoppers"
You can make one if you have spare parts lying around.
I've used 12-16volt 1000uf caps.
They help take out voltage ripple in the DC, & give a little bit of capacity right at the receiver. They can cure a hand full of radio gremlins.
Would it be fine to use a splitter with a transponder in the aux port for this? I have a sr300 and it only has a throttle, steering, aux, and bind port.
A Y-harness is fine, it doesn't need to be too long (the shorter the better).
I would say try it on the steering servo side, if the receiver still cuts, try it on the transponder side.
It is a flip of a coin...
If the wires for the servo get too small or long it may develop a studder again...
Ideally the caps would do best as close to the receiver as possible.
A Y-harness is fine, it doesn't need to be too long (the shorter the better).
I would say try it on the steering servo side, if the receiver still cuts, try it on the transponder side.
It is a flip of a coin...
If the wires for the servo get too small or long it may develop a studder again...
Ideally the caps would do best as close to the receiver as possible.
Strange servo issue Buggy (LOL?) BMS-617
The Servo has a delay in response and minor twitching on my Futaba AM system, controllable though, but on my 2.4ghz system the LED on the Rx flashes, the servo twitches bad and the motor stops and starts. I have tried it on all channels and the same thing happens. Moving it very slowly, sometimes the receiver LED will stay lit and it will respond for a few seconds but then it will cause the LED to flash and continue the erratic behavior. My old futaba S3003 servo works perfectly on the same setup. I've tried it from a far distance, I've tried plugging it in after the RX is powered up, nothing seems to help.
