Soldering Problem?
#1
Soldering Problem?
I just bought a orion revoultion motor and i can't get my solder to stick on the copper termanials . It does not stick, I try to attach my wire that has been tinned the solder melts on the termanails and falls off. . Then I soldered my esc wires on to another motor right after i tryed the orion and had no problems . I'm I doing something wrong.? There is also some black substance on the copper after I tryed to solder. ? Any help Would be great .
OKay before you start bashing me, I have soldered before , I'm using deans solder. I'm Not looking for "your stupid blah blah blah comments" .
OKay before you start bashing me, I have soldered before , I'm using deans solder. I'm Not looking for "your stupid blah blah blah comments" .
#2
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
Sounds like there is something on the copper ternimals thats not letting the solder stick. I would take a piece of fine grit sandpaper and clean those terminals and get all that black off - then spray/wipe them with some kind of cleaner like motor spray or denat alcohol and try again.
Maybe the ternimals have oxidized - copper reacts easily with air and forms a layer of copper oxide - maybe thats whats preventing the deans from sticking. I use deans solder myself and have never run into this. Deans has flux already in it, but if cleaning doesn't work, you may have to use a separate flux.
Maybe the ternimals have oxidized - copper reacts easily with air and forms a layer of copper oxide - maybe thats whats preventing the deans from sticking. I use deans solder myself and have never run into this. Deans has flux already in it, but if cleaning doesn't work, you may have to use a separate flux.
#3
Sounds to me that your iron needs a clean and so do the contacts. Did you tin the copper as well? If not try tinning them too.
#5
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
To keep tip clean - wet a piece of rag with water and sqz most of it out so its just damp - get iron hot, hit it with some deans solder and the wipe the tip with the damp rag. Its the last thing I do before I unplug and quit and my tips last and I don't have probs. I've just changed one - 3rd one in 19yrs.
When you solder wires on, you should pull on them to see if they'll come off - weak joint. The appearance of a weak joint will usually be diff - usually the weak joint is a cold joint - never got hot enough to melt solder on the tab and wire completely. Joint will look like a tinned wire just sitting there on the tab.
Look at the one that didn't come apart, thats what you're trying to do.
When you solder wires on, you should pull on them to see if they'll come off - weak joint. The appearance of a weak joint will usually be diff - usually the weak joint is a cold joint - never got hot enough to melt solder on the tab and wire completely. Joint will look like a tinned wire just sitting there on the tab.
Look at the one that didn't come apart, thats what you're trying to do.
#8
Tech Elite
iTrader: (41)
What Iron, watts, and tip are you using. The motor will absorb the heat very fast and a good hot Iron is needed.
I just bought a orion revoultion motor and i can't get my solder to stick on the copper termanials . It does not stick, I try to attach my wire that has been tinned the solder melts on the termanails and falls off. . Then I soldered my esc wires on to another motor right after i tryed the orion and had no problems . I'm I doing something wrong.? There is also some black substance on the copper after I tryed to solder. ? Any help Would be great .
OKay before you start bashing me, I have soldered before , I'm using deans solder. I'm Not looking for "your stupid blah blah blah comments" .
OKay before you start bashing me, I have soldered before , I'm using deans solder. I'm Not looking for "your stupid blah blah blah comments" .
#9
Tech Master
I had a heap of trouble soldering the wire onto my last motor. I had done about 20 deam plugs in the last month, so my soldering was up to scratch, just couldn't make it stick.
I figured it was the motor soaking the heat, so I got a 70W cheapie iron. Did it perfect first time
I always use flux when i'm tinning, and a little more when i'm making the connection, but then my solder doesn't have flux in it.
I figured it was the motor soaking the heat, so I got a 70W cheapie iron. Did it perfect first time
I always use flux when i'm tinning, and a little more when i'm making the connection, but then my solder doesn't have flux in it.
#11
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
I used to use an 80watt Weller (still have it) before I got my Hakko station. There is nothing wrong with that iron, plenty of heat even into a thick PCboard. You just have to keep tip clean. Clean tip and the clean place you're soldering onto will eliminate 99% of probs with soldering with a good iron. Def use flux if the solder you use does not have it in the solder already.
Thats the 2nd reason I use Deans solder - other is the added silver for better conductivity and less corrision.
Thats the 2nd reason I use Deans solder - other is the added silver for better conductivity and less corrision.
#12
If the solder joint broke from impact the solder joint was never hot enough to begin with. The solder joint is usually stronger than the wire you are soldering. All the tips are great, the only thing I would add is to use a liquid flux, this will help the solder flow. Also remove the solder first, and keep the iron on the joint till the hot solder fillets along the wire, Give it shot.