OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

Is anybody else having problems keeping brushes in Reedy Challenger motors? I'm only getting about 2 race days out of them in my TC Dirt Late Model before the brushes are so short the shunt is poking through the brush face. Like all my motors the first thing I do is tear it all apart, cut the comm, shim the armature, and on these I was breaking them in by running them underwater for 20 minutes on a 3.3v power source; all the stuff that works excellent on my Stock motors.

Any ideas?

Davebee

I thought water shortened the break in time. Have you checked the brushes after 5 minutes? They may be broken in way before 20. Just a thought.

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

Not as far as I know, underwater break-in just keeps arcing between the segments down and the motor cool. I usually ran the #767 brushes in my MVPs for 10 minutes, but because the brushes in the new Reedy motors are like rocks compared to the #767s, I figured I should run them in longer.

And even then, at 3.3v this thing should be able to run for DAYS before the brushes start getting short on it.

Davebee

Interesting. Is it just the challenger? I'm going to have to try next time I do a stockstar. Last time I broke in a motor with water was with slot cars, albeit with more voltage applied (usually with 5-6 volts). Under water, I doubt the brushes would last three minutes before being totally worn. I would let it go for about 45 seconds and it was done (as opposed to 5-10 minutes without).

dstyles

aren't the brushes similar to quasars - higher copper/graphite content than 767's?
i would try breaking them in at 3v for 300sec then compare you results to water dipping.

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

I've got 2 Stockstars, both built the same way, and they've been humming along just fine. Although, so far they've only spent time in my little 4-cell BoLink Legend, so that could easily make a difference. We'll see what happens in another month when they switch to my 2S1P LiPo RC10T4

I bought a few extra pairs of the brushes each motor comes with, it says "Quasar" right on the hang card. I was under the assumption they were longer lasting/harder (more silver, less graphite) than a #767. That's what they seem like when they break in.

dammit, why does everyone have to scribble up some gibberish code for compounds? can't we just call it "hard" or "soft" like Panther Tire does?

BobbyS

iTrader: (1)

My Challenger brushes were nearly worn down past the serrations after about two race days, but the motor is FAST! Where are you guys buying replacement brushes for your Challengers?

Davebee

asc0784

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0

For some reason I cannot get the link to work. Stormer Hobbies. Look under Associated not Reedy.

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

Mine went like stink too, then all of a sudden they trip over themselves. Taadaa, brushes are gone

rcman1993

iTrader: (33)

yah the brushes for are gone in 4 races with my lipo in my t4. cant figure it out and then i can never get it to run the same with new brushes so thats why i went brushless. brushless was the smart idea. but still that little challenger had a buttload of power so bought a new one after four or five races. that was to expensive.

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

The first Challenger I had went about 3 race nights before I found out the brushes were all but gone, and when I put the armature on my lathe I found out the very middle of all 3 segments were WAY low compared to near where the segments met, meaning where the brushes contacted the comm was shaped like the rotor on a Mazda engine rather than a perfect circle. The Sharpie even buzzed in my fingers as I marked the comm with it. 12 deep cuts and one carbide tool later there was still a little bit of a low spot on each segment, but I was afraid if I went any further I'd go through all the copper. Another set of brushes, a 10 minute underwater break in, and the motor ran good for about...one race night. By next week it was a wreck.

I wanted to get a baseline for these new motors so all I did with this first Challenger out of the carton was run it on a stand for 10 minutes at 3.3v. So when the thing ate its first set of brushes and the comm was insanely out of round after only a few races, I figured it was just because I ran it as it came out of the box. I remember MVP motors were notorious for coming with out-of-round commutators, so I didn't think it was that big a deal. But when it did the same thing after I threw my whole bag of tricks at it, and then the second brand new motor (which I broke in my way to begin with) followed suit...something ain't right here.

rook-e

Has anyone figured this motor out yet? I just returned to racing after taking ten years off, and I bought this motor and tried to race it last night and It only finished one heat. I am running a FT B4 with a LRP 7.1 esc and the new Reedy 7.4 5000mah 35c Lipo and my gearing is 23/81. Neither the esc or the motor is getting hot it rips for about five laps then just starts getting slower until it just stops. I clean and then it repeats the same. Cant afford a brushless as I just spent all my loot on this new car, radio, battery, and transponder. I need to get this figured out as I signed up for the Catus Classic already. Any help would be great. Thanks rook-e

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

Haven't worked on either of my Challengers since I started this thread, but I hear that Trinity (I think) has a longer-wearing brush. Not sure if Reedy themselves have made any changes to the production brushes.

jnslprd

iTrader: (5)

they still make brushed motors?

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

Not only that, but guys like me still work on 'em