SOOOO whos going carpet racing with me? heard this is a GREAT way to make me a better 1/8 scale driver
The Serpent 1/12 is a nice car but it uses a T-plate rear end. Most of the fast guys in carpet are using a floater (multi-link) chassis. The advantage of using a floater is that you can use the 1s lipo packs which can not be used on T-plate cars.
I have a CRC floater car I'm trying to fix-up for OCRC. It needs a new Pro-strut front end. That plus the 1s Lipo and the new Novak 1s Havoc speedo available later this month will be the ticket for me to do carpet again.
We run 13.5BL in the 1/12s with the 1s set-up. If you use the T-plate car with 4cells (NiMh), you'll have to use a 17.5BL or a 27T stock motor. You'll also need to get a smooth linear charger like the Muchmore and a conditioner like the 0-30 discharger for the NiMh packs. Sounds complicated? Thats because it is. Why do you think I gave that up to run nitro with you guys?
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You'll also need to get a smooth linear charger like the Muchmore and a conditioner like the 0-30 discharger for the NiMh packs.
My Triton EQ won't work as a charger for those packs?
As far as the car .. I'll stick with the Serpent (till I die ) ... I'll learn it .... and break it
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My Triton EQ won't work as a charger for those packs?
As far as the car .. I'll stick with the Serpent (till I die ) ... I'll learn it .... and break it
Your Triton EQ will be as good as a Muchmore charger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
Thought so. Do I need to get another manifold or can I steal it off the Picco pipe set? Ya I know... I'm being cheap. Gotta live up to my rep.
Of course you'll need a Nova Rossi conical header to match it with the Nova Rossi engine.
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My Triton EQ won't work as a charger for those packs?
As far as the car .. I'll stick with the Serpent (till I die ) ... I'll learn it .... and break it
If you want to just stick with a T-plate car and Nimh with your Triton, then I would suggest that you DON'T get IBs or even East Power. Just get GP cells 3700 or better should be good enough. The GPs are more durable and less finicky than the IBs and EPs.
Now onto other electric issues... If you want to run in the KO electric race in Dec. They're running TCs and 4wd minis. Sam has the S400 electric TC. Run that with a 13.5 or 17.5 with a Lipo 5000mah pack and you're set. The race will be running controlled tires so no need to assemble tires on your own and because its rubber, no need for a tire truer. Give that a thought.
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Thanks Sam for your help in the pits with the gear changes. Congrats to Rodger on your bump up as well as Jay P for his qualifiers. Sorry to see John break during his run and not be able to bump.
Does anyone know what happened to Walter? It was nice to be out again and see the whole gang.Were looking forward to the next race.
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MUGEN SEIKI KAMIKAZE RC CFX PAINTWORKS KO PROPO
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This is why I don't like messing with NiMh and would rather go with Lipo instead:
SMC EnerG 4600 Maintenance Tips
To maintain the performance level of these cells please follow the tips below.
Before the first charge: The cells have been stored with a small amount of charge in them to help maintain the highest possible capacity. All new generation sub-c cells self discharge fairly fast. Not all cells self discharge at the same rate so it's important to place them on a discharge tray that will bring all the cells down equally. If your tray has a cutoff, set it at .90 volts. Trays with no cutoffs that bring the cells down to zero volts can be used but it's important to not keep the pack discharged at zero volts too long. As soon as the all the lights are off on the trays with no cutoff, you must then start charging your pack since leaving the cells at zero volts for an extended period of time will result in a drop of capacity. The pack will perform at its best after it has been run once, as the cells tend to be unbalanced after being stored with charge.
Charging: Use a high quality peak detection charger. Use a 6 amp linear charge with the peak detect (voltage threshold) set at .005(5mv) per cell. A 4 cell pack would be set at .02(20mv) and a 6 cell pack at .03(30mv). If you own a temperature gun we like the packs to peak around 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
After the race: For maximum performance it's important to discharge the pack after a race. Discharge at 30-35 amps down to .90v per cell. This means 3.60v for a 4 cell pack and 5.40v for a 6 cell. Prior to charging the pack back up you should follow the traying method described above.
More than once per day: You can use your pack more than once per day. This will make the runtime drop slightly, but in most types of racing there is runtime to spare. Make sure to let the pack cool down for a period of 2 hours in between charges. Repeat the traying method described above prior to charging the pack back up.
Storage: After you have finished using your pack and you want to store it, we recommend you wait until the pack is cool then put 600 seconds of charge back into the pack. For long term storage (3 weeks or more) you should discharge/tray the pack then put 600 seconds of charge back once every 3 to 4 weeks. This will keep the cells from self discharging too low and keep the capacity as high as possible.
Warranty: Make sure to keep your sales receipt as we will only fix or replace cells/packs that have issues if it's within 1 month of the purchase date. Due to the new generation cells having low IR and high performance, the reliability and life expectancy can be compromised and SMC is not responsible for use/abuse of the cells. We have confidence that the EnerG cells are as reliable as any other cell on the market, but proper care will result in a longer cycle life.
Warning: Do not dispose of in fire, short-circuit, insert batteries with (+) and (-) ends reversed, deform positive cap, cover vents or mix with different battery types. Charge only with a charger designed for Nickel-Metal Hydride batteries. If leaked liquid gets in eyes, wash them with clean water and consult a doctor.
Sam, didn't I also see a Team Associated 12R5 on your shelf? That car has a multi-link rear end which will allow you to run a 1s Lipo. You got 1/12 tires yes?
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Anyone going out this Sunday to CP? Or doing that Toys 4 Tots race in December? Or Vegas this month?
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Thanks Sam for your help in the pits with the gear changes. Congrats to Rodger on your bump up as well as Jay P for his qualifiers. Sorry to see John break during his run and not be able to bump.
Does anyone know what happened to Walter? It was nice to be out again and see the whole gang.Were looking forward to the next race.
Thanks for the kind words
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Its a Serpent front end that I can put on my CRC chassis.
That is pretty cool will it make that CRC a better car? Of so do it
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Well I needed a new front end on my CRC car anyways. Was planning on getting the upgraded CRC front end but now that there is a Serpent option... Woo Hoo!
There's also an upgrade for the main chassis and the rear pod to be more BL friendly. Looks like I might be buying an entire chassis a la cart.
BTW, there's another twist to the 1/12, the older 1/12s and some other newer ones use a "two" hole rear wheel. However, Associated and some others have switched to a "three" hole rear wheel. Need to watch out for that when buying pre-mounted rear tires. I think all the Jacos are the "three" hole versions. Not sure which one Sam has if he has any. I hope he has the "two" hole ones. Confusing isn't it? Nitro seems a lot easier now don't it?
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Got My 733 From Kamikaze. Great Car. Great Service
heard this is a GREAT way to make me a better 1/8 scale driver 
Thats because it is.
) ... I'll learn it .... and break it 
Give that a thought.
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