RC motor cooler/freezer aka The Frankencooler that I make
Note: I produce/craft these myself, one at a time. I mention this because I'm not a major manufacture and do not want to violate any of the thread posting rules.
Name: Frankencooler
What it Does: Freeze your motor
Cost: 139.00 with stand, this includes shipping within the US.
I do have 2 listed on ebay right now and they will be available at mtheoryclothing.com and russellrc.com soon.
Any comments are welcome and if you want one, let me know. Contact Marty at martymiller35@hotmail.com
I forgot to mention, that in theory a cooler magnet is a stronger magnet. Generally, magnets feel weaker the hotter they get.
I'm going to post a recent Steve Weiss quote when someone asked about coolers. I hope that helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Well, when it comes to electronics cooler is usually better.
What you have to ask yourself is if you are noticing performance drop in your motor towards the later half of the run that are not associated with your battery pack falling off.
Does the motor feel sluggish off of corners...or do the brakes feel weaker as the run goes on... and when you come back do you have tons of run time left?
If so using a motor cooler will help keep your motor running more consistantly throughout the run... the total change in temperature over the run will probably be about the same... but if you start the motor off cooler it might not reach a higher temp that will cause the symptoms I mentioned earlier.
I do not recommend cooling your motor down and gearing up again to get back up into higher temperatures... The higher current draw will simply get you higher temperatures and pretty much back to where you started out
Awesome idea a couple of buddys and I use to do this at are local offroad track MHOR RC RACEWAYfor the bigger race's what we got was a small cooler and dry ice and and set the stock 27 motors in there for about 15mins and just befor are run we had to scramble to put it back in and set the mesh what a pain that got to be but in the end we had lower temp's and are motors lasted longer, what im trying to say is it works i know first had and thesedays with brushless thats what its about finding the right temp range and staying in the power band and haveing that edge
now for the product
1. How big is the cooler system weidth length height?
2. Could you make one that can chill more then one motor at a time?
3.What martials are you useing for the stands looks like alum? if so good choice as alum tends to hold heat in or in your case stay cold longer
4.Is there a warranty
You're right, it seems that myself and other basically use the temperature when the car comes off the track to find the right gearing/sweet spot.
answers to your questions
1- The stand is 15" long, 5" high, 4" wide.
2- The copper clamp is really only suited to cool one motor at a time.
3- The stand is extruded aluminum. The stand actually works to my benefit, it acts as a part of the heat sink. The basics are, the cooler the heat sink, the cooler the copper will be on top. So the stand does get a little warm. I was going to put a sticker on the heat sink, but it hindered the performance.
4- I really did not think of a warranty yet. My first cooler that I did all my tests on has ran a LONG time and it still performs like it did the first time. The only cooler I have ever heard of wearing out was a Crazy RC(nothing against the product) cooler that was used a lot and just plain worn out. I'll think about a warranty, but as of now, there is not one.
They can be mistreated, like letting it run for 40 hours straight. Or swapping the polarity when hooking it up to a power supply, this is not a good thing to do and can certainly cause problems.
On another note, I can fix worn out crazy rc coolers.
racersnow--I understand that me saying so is not very convincing. I'm only going off of what other racers have complained about and the results they got from their muchmore cooler compared to the one I'm selling.
As far as aluminum vs. copper, there is not contest. Copper has almost twice, yes, that's twice the thermal conductivity of aluminum. It took me three seconds to find this chart below, there are a ton of charts on the web that rate metals the same as this chart. The material is important, but there are also alot of other little things that are involved like "lapping" the surfaces just to name one.
With the two copper spacers to get the clamp away from the copper plate, it makes it very versatile, later this month when I do some road course racing I'll be able to check out the touring cars for application and post pics.
The cooling unit does come off the stand super easy.
For fixing the Crazy coolers, I take them apart and replace parts, lap the parts and clean them properly and reassemble. It's not really hard to do, but there are little things that really matter to make it work.
Hey guys- call it a testimonial, call it what you want.
I ran one of these Frankencoolers last weekend. One word- AWESOME! In a building that was 85 degrees, my motor was ice cold! I seen someone mention a MuchMore- I have one. The Frankencooler kills it- I've never been able to get my MuchMore to get a motor below about 60 degrees.
Why cool the motor? I've been a fan of it for a few years now. I've noticed an increase in rip at the start, and less fade due to heat (and yes, talking brushless motors). It allows me to gear up, and not boil the motor. I especially prefer a cooler motor in oval racing, but also see the effects in 12th scale- where jumping out to that early lead is helpful!
The time Marty spent on these is well worth it. You won't be disappointed.
RC motor cooler/freezer aka The Frankencooler that I make
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