Liquid Masking
#1
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Liquid Masking
any tips on how to apply the lm???i've read a couple of threads regarding lm,and it scares me a bit,a lot actually .any tips on how to apply it???like how many coats???thick or thin???what brush???basically any tips regarding lm.i don't want to spoil a body just because i made a mistake with the lm.thanks guys
#2
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
i usualy spray mine with my airbrush. 3 thick coats. you have to thin it a bit with water for it to go through the brush but i feel it works better than brushing it on. makes the mask last longer too. i read somewhere on here yesterday that somebody uses the "3 rule" 3 coats, 3 different directions when applying (with a brush) and 3 of something else... (for got what.. sorry). but it sounded like a good idea.
good luck
Blazin'
good luck
Blazin'
#3
I tried the airbrush method the last time I applied it to a body and I didn't have very good luck. I think it was to thin so it took forever to peel it off. The next one I attempt it on I am using the foam brush method and putting it on thick. I have ready on a couple of boards that thicker is better.
#4
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
how do u noe if it is too thin or too thick???
#5
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
another question,which online shop carries the bob dively liquid mask and ships worldwide(including Malaysia).thanks
#6
Tech Initiate
3 thick coats is usually all that you need to use. If you put it on too thin, it's a real pain to remove. I just use a regular paint brush and slap it on, then hit it with a hair drier. What I like about using liquid mask is there is never any bleeding, plus I can dry my paint with a hair drier and it doesn't lift at all. If you use tape, heat starts to release the glues and you get bleeding. Use a new x acto blade when you cut it, light pressure, the weight of the blade is enough to slice through it.
#7
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
thanks guys.but i figured it is too hard to get liquid mask.so my question is,is liquid masking better than masking tape???i noe masking tape usually bleeds,but which are the best ones???i'm guessing tamiya or 3m.which is better???
#8
You can test the quality of the liquid mask peeling it up in thw wheel cut outs. If it can be pulled with out tearing then it is thick enough. As for tape. Never used the Tamiya brad so I can't comment on it but, I have had good luck with the 3M brand; both blue and green. As long as you use a sharp blade to cut with it should work good for you. After you cut your patters out burnish (I think that is right) the edges with a popsicle stick or something similar to ensure the edges are sealed. This should greatly reduce paint bleeds. But if you use the liquid mask you don;t have to worry about this. The nice thing about LM is that if it happens to peel up where you dont want it to simply press it back down onto the body and it will re-adhere itself to it.
Good luck with which ever you choose.
Good luck with which ever you choose.
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
The Process from start to finish (using Liquid Mask)
I would like to know the full process for using LM. Here's what I think is done
1 wash body thoroughly
2 draw design on outside of body
3 apply window mask???
4 coat entire inside of body with LM (I suppose you could skip using window mask???)
5 score LM following the design drawn on the outter shell
6 remove sections of LM based on design and color
7 begin painting
What I don't understand is:
- When you begin painting you can no longer see the design lines, right??? So, how do you determine where to begin removing the next layer of LM for the next color?
- How do you begin lifting the LM from a fully coated body? Rub with your finger? Use the edge of the Xacto blade?
- Similarly, how does one remove the narrow outlines used in some designs without removing the larger area of LM coverage (hope that's clear)?
If someone would outline the steps they employ for using LM, and answer my questions, I may become the next R/C body Van Goh.
1 wash body thoroughly
2 draw design on outside of body
3 apply window mask???
4 coat entire inside of body with LM (I suppose you could skip using window mask???)
5 score LM following the design drawn on the outter shell
6 remove sections of LM based on design and color
7 begin painting
What I don't understand is:
- When you begin painting you can no longer see the design lines, right??? So, how do you determine where to begin removing the next layer of LM for the next color?
- How do you begin lifting the LM from a fully coated body? Rub with your finger? Use the edge of the Xacto blade?
- Similarly, how does one remove the narrow outlines used in some designs without removing the larger area of LM coverage (hope that's clear)?
If someone would outline the steps they employ for using LM, and answer my questions, I may become the next R/C body Van Goh.
#10
Tech Initiate
The steps you laid out are right on the money. I just use the corner of the x acto to start lifting the mask, it peels off easily. Even after spraying your first color you can still see the cut lines, they actually stand out a little more. With a sharp knife and careful peeling you can leave a hair line of masking in place, it's quite easy to work with. If by chance you have a section that's a little thin, you can use a finger nail and slowly roll the mask off. Hope this helps.......