need some help - paint popping...
05-10-2005, 07:09 AM
#1
need some help - paint popping...
So I've been at this for quite a while, but continue to have this same problem.
My problem is paint 'popping' off.
I mainly run TC's and only use ProLine bodies & Pactra spray cans. I begin by scrubbing the inside of the body with dish soap and a nylon bristled brush. I clean the inside throughly and rinse it throughly. I then apply window masks, and scrub the inside with steel wool. I work extra hard in 'high impact' areas like the front fenders and the entire front end. I then scrub the inside again with dish soap & brush - cleaning and drying it throughly.
I typically paint two colors, each color about three coats using a hair drier to speed up the drying process. I'm sure to shake the cans a ton and typically warm them in warm water to help it spray evenly. I finish by appling a coat of white (not the Pactra 'Top Coat').
After one session, my bodies look trashed. I'm a pretty clean driver, but I always say that if you don't at least scuff the boards once in a while, you're not going fast enough... Either way, it seems like other peoples paint 'etches' into the lexan and is a very strong bond...not for me.
Any suggestions? Different paint?? Different procedure???
Thanks in advance.
My problem is paint 'popping' off.
I mainly run TC's and only use ProLine bodies & Pactra spray cans. I begin by scrubbing the inside of the body with dish soap and a nylon bristled brush. I clean the inside throughly and rinse it throughly. I then apply window masks, and scrub the inside with steel wool. I work extra hard in 'high impact' areas like the front fenders and the entire front end. I then scrub the inside again with dish soap & brush - cleaning and drying it throughly.
I typically paint two colors, each color about three coats using a hair drier to speed up the drying process. I'm sure to shake the cans a ton and typically warm them in warm water to help it spray evenly. I finish by appling a coat of white (not the Pactra 'Top Coat').
After one session, my bodies look trashed. I'm a pretty clean driver, but I always say that if you don't at least scuff the boards once in a while, you're not going fast enough... Either way, it seems like other peoples paint 'etches' into the lexan and is a very strong bond...not for me.
Any suggestions? Different paint?? Different procedure???
Thanks in advance.
05-10-2005, 07:54 AM
#2
Im by far not an expert, but one suggestion would be to let the paint dry completely, 72 hours minimum, but pteferably a week before you run the shell. That curing time makes a huge difference in the durability of the paint job. Also, a general rule is more thin coats as opposed to a few thicker coats, and a minimum of 30 minutes of drying between coats even after using a hair dryer. That is about the extent of my knowledge. If it was of no help, I apologize.
05-10-2005, 08:40 AM
#3
I had the same problems a few times and all I could figure was the Pactra white paint was bad because it was always the white that chipped and everything else was fine. I switched to the Tamiya paint and have had no problems.
05-10-2005, 08:53 AM
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
There should be NO reason to 'scuff' the inside of your shell, simply washing with a GOOD washing up liquid with a small sponge should suffice, rinsing with HOT water.
Once rinsed, dry the inside with a lint free cloth and then mask up ASAP. If need be, you can use a harmless degreaser before spraying to. It just sounds like there is a thin film of oil on your shell.
I can't EMPHASISE how important it is for the surface to be oil free. I never scuff my shells, NEVER as it shows through, and the only problem I have had is Faskolor dissolving after being used TO soon after spraying.
If you are using spray cans, try and make the coats as thin as poss and you can use a hairdryer, but it only dries the outer surface.
Once rinsed, dry the inside with a lint free cloth and then mask up ASAP. If need be, you can use a harmless degreaser before spraying to. It just sounds like there is a thin film of oil on your shell.
I can't EMPHASISE how important it is for the surface to be oil free. I never scuff my shells, NEVER as it shows through, and the only problem I have had is Faskolor dissolving after being used TO soon after spraying.
If you are using spray cans, try and make the coats as thin as poss and you can use a hairdryer, but it only dries the outer surface.
05-10-2005, 09:05 AM
#5
good info...
Texas - I too thought I was not letting it dry long enough before I ran it...until this past weekend. I ran a body for the first time that I painted back in October. Same problem...
Quiglee - Really the only other canned paint my LHS carries it Tamiya. Depending on what I learn here, I plan to give it a try.
DA - I totally agree, scuffing the inside should not be needed, but I've gone thru SO many bodies simply because the paint sux, that I'm trying whatever I can. I figure dish soap should be pretty darn good for removing mold release, oils from my hand, and any other type of oils...right?
I think I will give the Tamiya paint a go. Thinner coats, longer drying time between coats...
thanks guys - any and all info is appreciated...
Quiglee - Really the only other canned paint my LHS carries it Tamiya. Depending on what I learn here, I plan to give it a try.
DA - I totally agree, scuffing the inside should not be needed, but I've gone thru SO many bodies simply because the paint sux, that I'm trying whatever I can. I figure dish soap should be pretty darn good for removing mold release, oils from my hand, and any other type of oils...right?
I think I will give the Tamiya paint a go. Thinner coats, longer drying time between coats...
thanks guys - any and all info is appreciated...
05-10-2005, 09:10 AM
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Only thing I can suggest is the use of a painters Tacky Rag before spraying to remove anything before hand, and get the tins realy warm and hold them a reasonable distance away from the work surface, I know it is far to tempting to pile the paint on.
You can also try warming the shell before the first initial coat of a colout on the virgin plastic?
You can also try warming the shell before the first initial coat of a colout on the virgin plastic?
05-10-2005, 09:37 AM
#7
just checking...
DA - when you say get the tins really warm, your refering to the paint cans, right? Typically, I submerge the can in hot tap water for a while. If read, and found, that this helps thin the paint a bit and spray smoother.
No hotter than hot tap water, right?
Also, so you know, I'm not trying to get opaque on the first coat (by any means). I feel that I'm putting a reasonably thin coats, but I'm thinking I'm not allowing enough dry time between coats...
I've considered a tack rag, but to be honest, I was concerned that while it would remove any debris, I thought this could leave behind a slight amount of residue. I really didn't think it would, but then again, with this problem, I was trying to keep the surface as completely clean & dry as possible.
I figure this is just like racing, make one change at a time, eh? I'll try the Tamiya paints and if still no luck, tack rag to the rescue...
No hotter than hot tap water, right?
Also, so you know, I'm not trying to get opaque on the first coat (by any means). I feel that I'm putting a reasonably thin coats, but I'm thinking I'm not allowing enough dry time between coats...
I've considered a tack rag, but to be honest, I was concerned that while it would remove any debris, I thought this could leave behind a slight amount of residue. I really didn't think it would, but then again, with this problem, I was trying to keep the surface as completely clean & dry as possible.
I figure this is just like racing, make one change at a time, eh? I'll try the Tamiya paints and if still no luck, tack rag to the rescue...
05-10-2005, 09:39 AM
#8
TC_Tuner,
In that case I have nothing else to offer except reiterate using thin coats. I really only have 3 shells under my belt. Of the three i have only ran 2. Of the two, I took my time with one and rushed one. The one I took my time with is on my Savage and I have bashed with it over a year. Except for where the nitro has began to eat at the paint, there is no degradation in the paint job. And it was done with Pactra and Spaztix paints. The shell I rushed is on my RS4-3. It didnt really chip, but when I was cutting it out only a day after finishing the paint, I accidentally smudged the paint in a few places because it wasnt totally cured. But it has been through hell since then, and I dont have any flaking or chipping of the paint. Once again Pactra paint. Good luck on your next shell.
In that case I have nothing else to offer except reiterate using thin coats. I really only have 3 shells under my belt. Of the three i have only ran 2. Of the two, I took my time with one and rushed one. The one I took my time with is on my Savage and I have bashed with it over a year. Except for where the nitro has began to eat at the paint, there is no degradation in the paint job. And it was done with Pactra and Spaztix paints. The shell I rushed is on my RS4-3. It didnt really chip, but when I was cutting it out only a day after finishing the paint, I accidentally smudged the paint in a few places because it wasnt totally cured. But it has been through hell since then, and I dont have any flaking or chipping of the paint. Once again Pactra paint. Good luck on your next shell.
05-10-2005, 10:50 AM
#10
Also check to make sure your dish soap doesn't have any hand lotion or skin softeners.
Heat gun drying in between coats with Pactra seems to speed up the process but the paint has still not cured. Try waiting 15 min. in between light coats, letting the body sit in the sun.
Heat gun drying in between coats with Pactra seems to speed up the process but the paint has still not cured. Try waiting 15 min. in between light coats, letting the body sit in the sun.
05-10-2005, 01:27 PM
#12
I have been painting bodies since 1983, and with the exception of a heartbreaking first body painted with Testors model paints when I was 13, I have NEVER had paint flake or break off of Lexan, and I have NEVER scuffed a body before painting.
Until recently, when a body that I painted, using Parma paints and Pactra water-based fluorescents. In the first heat of the first night of racing, a large chunk of the fluorescents came off. Everything that came off was backed with the Pactra white backing coat for flourescents.
I threw the Pactra water-based white top coat out when I got home. I won't ever use anything but Parma paints unless I'm looking for some candy or specialty colors offered by SpazStix.
Until recently, when a body that I painted, using Parma paints and Pactra water-based fluorescents. In the first heat of the first night of racing, a large chunk of the fluorescents came off. Everything that came off was backed with the Pactra white backing coat for flourescents.
I threw the Pactra water-based white top coat out when I got home. I won't ever use anything but Parma paints unless I'm looking for some candy or specialty colors offered by SpazStix.
05-10-2005, 02:56 PM
#14
blue & white
I have had problems with both white & blue (standard, not floro)
I run two paint schemes - one for my nitro and the exact opposite for my electric...
I know some colors can be more problematic than others...but in my opinion, these should be standard fair...
see attached
I run two paint schemes - one for my nitro and the exact opposite for my electric...
I know some colors can be more problematic than others...but in my opinion, these should be standard fair...
see attached
05-10-2005, 03:21 PM
#15
been there!
Apex - Yea, I made the 'testors' mistake once...once. I was probably 13 also and it was on my brand new Hornet... Ha.
It's funny because I haven't had this problem on my other R/C's. I have a Savage that I beat the crap out of, but paint seems to stick.
Not sure if ya'll agree, but I think TC bodies take more abuse than just about any other r/c because the body is more exposed. Take a look at an 1:8 and the body is pretty protected. Any time a TC makes contact with a car or the boards, the body gets impacted.
I don't mind painting bodies, but to be honest, I don't care to spend too much time doing it either. I've probably rushed between coats...
Right now, I'm painting up a 200mm Mazda 6 body with the same scheme as in the attached image a few posts up. I'm trying something a bit different.
I'll probably get railed here a bit, but I can take it...
After the complete cleaning, I opted not to use steel wool. Instead I used a small amount of carb cleaner on a paper towel. I knew this would attack the plastic, but using a small amount, I cleaned the inside before I applied the first light coat. The slightly hazed lexan looked pretty similar to a 'steel wooled' body, so I honestly don't think it will be very apparent when done.
I figure this will ensure the surface is oil free as well as some 'tooth' for the paint to adhere.
Also worth noting, I would usually use my air compressor to partially blow dry the body after washing it. I figured that could maybe be contaminating the surface. I simply dried the body with clean paper towels.
we'll see...
It's funny because I haven't had this problem on my other R/C's. I have a Savage that I beat the crap out of, but paint seems to stick.
Not sure if ya'll agree, but I think TC bodies take more abuse than just about any other r/c because the body is more exposed. Take a look at an 1:8 and the body is pretty protected. Any time a TC makes contact with a car or the boards, the body gets impacted.
I don't mind painting bodies, but to be honest, I don't care to spend too much time doing it either. I've probably rushed between coats...
Right now, I'm painting up a 200mm Mazda 6 body with the same scheme as in the attached image a few posts up. I'm trying something a bit different.
I'll probably get railed here a bit, but I can take it...
After the complete cleaning, I opted not to use steel wool. Instead I used a small amount of carb cleaner on a paper towel. I knew this would attack the plastic, but using a small amount, I cleaned the inside before I applied the first light coat. The slightly hazed lexan looked pretty similar to a 'steel wooled' body, so I honestly don't think it will be very apparent when done.
I figure this will ensure the surface is oil free as well as some 'tooth' for the paint to adhere.
Also worth noting, I would usually use my air compressor to partially blow dry the body after washing it. I figured that could maybe be contaminating the surface. I simply dried the body with clean paper towels.
we'll see...