RCPG1

iTrader: (16)

I have been reading some of the posts from the Pro's where most of you recomend the use of the Spaz Stix Pre-prep to help prevent the paint peeling off from the body. Been that I have never used it, I would like your input on two questions.

1) Is it recomended to use with water based paints? eg. Createx.

2) Do you apply it to the complete shell before applying your mask, or do you apply it after you peel the mask in the area you want to paint?

Thanks.

Z-Man.

iTrader: (4)

I HIGHLY reccomend using it. I use it when I'm using spaz stix, flask plot, createx it doesn't really matter. I spray it on each section that I peel liquid mask off of vs. spraying it before putting on liquid mask. It's perfect for getting rid of those "ghost farts" and making bodies look bad

RCPG1

iTrader: (16)

Thanks Z-Man.

I know that RCS makes great products as well, have you tried them or do you have other preferences for the Pre-prep.

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

Its good stuff but be careful to make sure it is COMPLETELY DRY before spraying any paint on top of it. my last body I was rushing on the last color and the pre-prep must not have been totally dry because when I sprayed the color it kind of bubbled up, almost like there was water on the body, like that fisheye kind of look. Moral of the story, take your time but YESSSS, I recommend the pro-prep!!

tq_danpatterson

iTrader: (31)

Spaz Stix Pre-Prep is one of the godsends of airbrushing.

Use it for every new surface, and as others have said, make sure it's completely dry before painting. A quick shot from a heat gun makes it evaporate in seconds. It leaves the surface beautifully shiny and ready to take paint without attracting stray micro-particles to statically-charged blotches. I.E., it prevents ghost farts.

Before I used Pre-Prep, I would actually spray one very light misting coat of Simple Green onto a clean microfiber cloth, rub the Simple Green into it so that the surface was very, very lightly dampened, and then very gently wipe down the new surfaces. That took away the static charge and prevented ghost farts, too, but was obviously much more labor-intensive than just spraying a quick shot of Pre-Prep to get better results.

Hey, cool- you're semi-local.

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

You can use theSpazStix with any paint. Water base or lacquer base

As stated preprep is an excellent product. First reason was already mentioned-the ever irritating ghost farts. If you don't know that those are let me know. Second, SpazStix is also an adhesion promoter. Its particularly helpful when using the chrome. I do use it when ever I cant scuff the body. Some here will tell you that you don't need to scuff but why take the risk. If you use it before putting down the masking it defeats one of the purposes of it-removing the static build up from removing the mask. Dust it on as you remove the mask.

First thing-Jon of RCS Paints makes FANTASTIC products!! The candies are second to none! I like his candies hand over fist better than the Spaz hard anodized paints. I usually end up diluting the Spaz by about 50% to make them even come close to shooting like the RCS. Ok, now to answer your question. RCS makes a preprep also but it's specifically formulated to remove the static build up that comes from removing the mask-preventing ghost farts. ....there's that term again... It is NOT and adhesion promoter like the Spaz.

mxnick did you use the rattle can or the 2 oz. bottle? I had the same experience with the rattle can and vowed to never use it in the can again. When applying either brand just mist on the first coat. Heat set it for about 15-20 seconds and mist on another coat. Look at it before you shoot it with paint. If you catch it before it completely sets you can wipe it off and shoot again. That's the reason I use a lamp when I paint. I can hold it up to the light to make sure the paint is even or the preprep didn't leave spots.

Hope this helps

RCPG1

iTrader: (16)

This is Great information that everyone is providing, I have painted 4-5 bodies and experience peeling of the paint, of course I am no expert and I ususally spray too much paint, now that I am using an airbrush instead of cans and with the use of the Pre-prep as you all have suggested I feel confident that my paint jobs will last a bit longer.

Thanks everybody for your help.

**If I could get this kind of help driving my car, I just might make it to the "A- Mains" everytime**

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

Also scuffing the body will almost guarantee that you won't have a peeling problem. Like I said the only time I don't scuff it is when I'm going to be using Chrome. Spaz is kinda tricky that way. So, in short, scuff and use the PrePrep and you can't go wrong.

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

Yes, I used it in the rattle can I have never had a problem with it in the rattle can until this last paint job. And I have a homemade heat box that I made up with an old blowdryer that I place the body on top of and had it on there for a good couple minutes and like you said, I held it up to the light and it LOOKED like it was all dry. Only thing I did differently was you said one light coat, dry, then another light coat. I skipped the second coat before putting down color.

Colors_By_Dave

iTrader: (84)

Aibrushed 91% isopropol Alcohol works as prep to kill static. So does distilled water.

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

I don't know what they do differently with the rattle cans but I can tell you that it is very different from the bottle. Possibly different solvents? When I used it it had a tendency to seal up the cut lines and almost every time left spots. Get yourself the 2oz. bottle. You have so much more control with it. I hold my airbrush back about 6" with about 20psi. Kills the static, gives adhesion but doesn't affect the masking. Plus it smells so much better than the rattle cans lol.

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

yea the stuff in the rattle cans smells TERRIBLE!!!! I take it outside to spray it when I use it

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

So is it a good substitute for Pre Prep?
I hear spaz stix Pre Prep is good stuff is the Isopripol as good?

I have sprayed a body with Spax stix without pre prep and the paint has st popped off. I cleaned the body with clean green and I scuffed it but it has not taken. Also what I saw was a very fluffy finish after spraying, it was like it was going on to dry.

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

All the alcohol will do is remove the static charge build up. SpazStix is also an adhesion promoter. I'm very surprised that it came off with stuffing. How much stuffing did you do? I usually only use the preprep if I'm going to do some detail work or if I'm using chrome. Other than that I scuff it pretty well then shoot it.

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Does anyone know who on RCTech is a distributor of Spaz Stix products?