fullwatts

iTrader: (15)

Thanks! You read my mind exactly. Some colored carbon or silver graphite would look crazy. Gotta get the process just right with the cheap stuff first. The window stickers go on next. I have to scan em in and run em thru my vinyl cutter. Only have white right now but some chrome for the windows would look amazing. Gonna make a couple Mugen stickers too. I'll post some pics when I get the vinyl on it. Stay tuned.

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

I cast some new wing molds using the durarock stuff. Initial impression is good. It feels harder and more durable than plaster and mixes easier. Its quite a bit more expensive but not out of reach if the durability is there. Thin areas are still fragile, im going to try mixing milled fiber, flox and aerosil in to try to increase thin cast strength.

How many plys of carbon are your bodies?

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

I pulled 2 thick wings off of the new durarock molds and the edges broke out like the plaster molds did, only not nearly as bad. I think that body molds would be ok but tight corners may break off. It is starting to appear that wood might be the answer for wing molds that last.

BrianVTRMiller

Awesome thread. Would love to see more pics of your setups. I worked with some local thermoformers when I was still at Method RC, but have the itch to do something on my own. Would love to get my hands dirty actually making the molds. How does the putty stand sanding/working by hand? Even though I design in 3D, I can't afford CNC time and love sculpting by hand.

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

The water putty works like hard plaster. A cheesegrater file works well as does sandpaper. Only thing about sandpaper is after every couple strokes, you need to brush the paper. I use a floor push broom turned over on my table.p

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Correct me if I'm wrong but with wings being simple enough, couldn't you make the mould out of a hardwood? With the shape being somewhat basic and wood being so easy to work with (with the proper tools of course) you can finish it of super smooth and then spray it with a high gloss lacquer finish and then fit it with some pledge every time you go pop a new one.

I'm sure you guys know what you're doing and someone has probably tried this already so feel free to tell me I'm lost. LOL

I'm just a thinkerer of sorts and my brain is constantly looking for new ways to reinvent the wheel.

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

For runs of wings, wood would be ideal. For myself, im looking for something cheap that i can cast multiple blocks and make alot of changes. Yea, i have a thing for the wing. My next cast will be cabosil filled smooth-on onxy with a wood filler block.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

For either Runs or personal, I think wood is the most economical substrate to make a mould for a wing. Once it's done it's done. No chipping, cracking or wearing out ever.

Not sure how long you guys have been into RC but back 25 years ago, my favorite wing was Team Hammer's Bi-Level wing where the upper wing had 3 adjustment points that allowed you to add more downforce overall or to one side only. If anyone remembers it or has a picture, I 'd love to see it so I can make my own. Miss that wing.

fullwatts

iTrader: (15)

@ Lone Star

Body has a single ply and a double in the cab. I usually back my carbon with a layer of cheap black cotton fabric. Twill doesn't get that rich black color unless you do this. The weave is semi-seethru. I run a layer of 6oz e-glass on the inner surface and then it's super strong. On one of my first bagged tries I used some 9oz uni. I'm pretty sure I could shoot it with a gun and it would deflect. Total overkill.

I'm really liking the discussion on materials to build the vac mold form with. I went out and got some water putty. I like the stuff. Never would have known it existed unless I read about it here. I have the same concerns with putting the time into making a form. Plaster of Paris just seems too fragile. Maybe good for a pull or two...I think wood and bondo might be the ticket. The bondo is cheap and easy enough to form with sandpaper and rasps. Anyone tried it?

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

I use alot of heavy carbon on my hydrofoils and boards that i build. I use 28oz. 50k twill and 22oz biax knitted mostly. I built a press out of i-beam that has an 8'x16" bed, 42" height limit. I've run it up to 50 tons so far. I use 8" fire hose for pressure bladders. Awsome when they inflate and start sqeezing the molds together. Bladders are good to 250psi, way more than frame would hold. You should look at soler composites for the best srice and selections of carbon. Also checkout their colored glass and hybrids. Raka epoxy is really good and cheap, 900 resin, and whatever hardener.

djs101

iTrader: (87)

Can those doing their own forming share how they're doing it and what equipment their using? I'd like to get a good idea of what it'll take to do my own bodies.

Thanks

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

Check posts on page1 & 3. Also check my albums and vacuum forming on youtube.

QuikWgn

iTrader: (1)

My stepfather and I are seriously considering this. He has a 3D scanner, 3D printer, a decent sized 5 axis CNC cabinet mill, and access to commercial grade materials at bulk/wholesale prices. He designs and makes prototypes as a consultant for a number of big companies like Penske, Boeing, and British Aerospace. There just aren't many bodies out there for 1/8th electric drivers that fit well over 4s battery packs since most of the dedicated electrics and conversions have moved away from saddle packs. He seems to think we can get away with a high temp thermoplastic buck to do the vac forming over, but I am more inclined to start out with a 3D printed buck and then use the 3D scanner to make the CNC dataset for an aluminum buck for the actual forming. I much favor the FTW Exabyte F-22 Raptor/Stealth fighter inspired designs over the current cab forward trend.

Marklar

Or just plain black vinyl to simulate tinted windows...
http://oakmandesigns.wordpress.com/?...&submit=Search

Marklar

Chrome vinyl on carbon fiber...

+ YouTube Video