B24

iTrader: (4)

I plan on using Spaz Stix mirror chrome for the first time, just going to use it on some pins. Any advice on using this product would be greatly appreciated. I scuff my bodies and use all faskolor for everything else. I am pretty sure I want to back the chrome with black, from what I have heard.

Thanks in advance
Keith

Colors_By_Dave

iTrader: (84)

Don't scuff where the chrome will go.
Back with ONLY WATER BASED black, or white will work too.
Peeling masking near chrome can lift it, use caution.

KainK

iTrader: (25)

When I use the chrome it really pays to be patient with the paints around the chrome lines and the backer. Keep the coats light and dry well between coats. I try to keep build up to a minimum. It helps prevent the chrome peeling when you peel the mask around it.

I always use pre-prep before chrome also. It helps get really even coats. The paint is really light so its affected more by static and will cause a funny marbled dull look some times if you dont.

jacked103

as long as the body is clean, it will turn out well. the only tip i have is to warm the body up with a hair dryer first. i have gone threw 5 or 6 cans of spaz stix chrome and warming the body is the trick to awesome chrome. also make sure the place on the body has nice clear plastic (if you know what i mean) ih had a few bodies that the plastic was a little foggy/hazey in some of the folds and curves of the body and it really effects how your chrome turns out

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

As KainK stated USE THE SPAZSTIX PREPREP!! Not only does it prevent "ghost farts" but its an adhesion promoter as well. Without it I will almost guarantee that the chrome will flake. Also make your life simpler. Shoot the chrome last. that way you won't have to worry about it peeling up. As far as backing goes, do as Dave suggested with a light coat. Just enough to cover the chrome....barely. Remember...WATER BASED! NOT LACQUER BASE! The lacquer base will eat right through it.

I've actually had bad luck with the warm bodies dulling the chrome. I know that others have as well so if you choose to do that use caution.

B24

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the advice.

Will.I.Ams

How well does spaz stix chrome work? Can you actually get it to look like they show?

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

I personally think that there are a couple of factors that affect the brightness of it. The first is in your control. Make sure the polycarbonate is nice and clean. The second that is not totally in your control is the polycarbonate itself. I have found that the JConcepts bodies give a brighter shine than the Proline bodies do.

Either way shoot 3-4 light coats then back it with WATER BASE black. One light coat should work.

nitroexpress

I understand why the body should not be scruffed. I've seen some chrome bodys where the scratches showed in the chrome. But if not scruffed, won't the chrome tend to flake when used in larger areas? I've seen some SC trucks done all in chrome. Are they going to have a flaking problem?

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

Read my posts above or all of this thread. Your questions will be answered.

nitroexpress

Well, I did. But I'm not feeling warm and cuddly.

I can see how thin lines wouldn't be a problem. But I'm concerned with larger areas. Paint flakes when the body is not scruffed. Since chrome painted bodies are not scruffed, is the secret to use PrePrep? And if PrePrep works so well, why is anyone ever scruffing bodies when using colored paints?

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

The preprep is used in place of scuffing the body Since you can't do that with the chrome. Most that paint and have a customer that requests a full chrome body will tell them that they won't guarantee the paint. It's ok when using it in pin striping or on the roll bars on SCs but the entire body is a different story. I use the pre prep even when I scuff the body. It's a habit just because it eliminates the ghost farts when doing drop shadows.

R/C Lidz

iTrader: (59)

I never scuff anything.

Saying "Paint flakes when the body is not scuffed..." is just not true. Laying down too heavy of a coat will cause paint to flake more than anything. Okay, using the wrong paint will have a worse effect.

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

I have had personal experience with the chrome flaking when not using the preprep. I have talked to other painters that have had the same problem. Don't roll your eyes because this has happened to me or anyone else. I know what I'm doing and scuffing gives the paint something to hold on to. You should know that as long as you've been painting. You don't scuff. I do.

Caci623

Here's a step by step tutorial I wrote on Spaz Stix Mirror chrome. As for chipping, not cleaning the body with mild soap to remove the "release agent" applied to the mold during the vaccuum forming of the body. This can be transfered to the plastic and can create flaking. Apply paint to thick is the biggest reason. Paint sticks to paint better that it sticks to plastic. An outer skin (dry to the touch) happens and the thick paint under this skin is drying and attaching to it's self not the plastic. SPRAY SEVERAL THIN COATS to prevent flaking. Also air temp affects paints. The body and paint needs to be at room temp. Here in Arizona commercial painters never paint a house after 10am in the summer time as the paint being sprayed actually dries before it hits the house!

There is alot of mis information about applying this paint. Take the time to read this. Lots of pics show the proper process. http://forums.cfxpaintworks.com/view...php?f=62&t=857